mazfg

As per my previosu post...I've just re-fitted my gearbox. I've just been out to test drive after refitting and noticed that the biting point of the clutch seems very high. I've just installed a new slave cylinder (7/8" bore) and the master is onyl a year old and in good condition. I also had a new clutch fitted last year.
I haven't driven the car since September and only really noticed it in comparison to my daily run about. I can't see the clutch is worn as only done a few 100 since it was fitted  and high biting point is usually that sign?

I've spent the weekend refitting my gearbox...which was a struggle but it's all in and I ran it without the propshaft attached. All is good apart from I've noticed the rear oil seal seem to be leaking a tiny bit . The guy who refurbed forgot to do this and prior to refitting I tried to get the castellated nut off to remove the flange..but no go and with the MOT next Fridqay (and bad whether in the week) it was do or die this weekend.
Now I did think about doing in situ. My only problem is the gearbox tunnel won't allow me to get a socket in..less access as I also have OverDrive. I though I may grind some of it off to allow this.The nut seems to be on pretty tight...is it ok to lock eveythingby putting it in gear and then undoing?  I had no hope before when it was on the bench as It wouldn't lock with my mole grips...
Any advice appreciated.

Just have a question. I've got a Vitesse 6 and as standard it has a 7/8" clutch slave cylinder. Can you put a 1" bore instead?  Only asking as I'm unsure of what mine is and when I bought a new one a few years back I'm sure the guy recommended going with the larger one? Unable to tell what I have. Only marking on mine are: TVS-Girling, T38 9PG and 06670759 (or 39..difficult to make out).

Just need someone to say..nope...should defintiely be 7/8" and a 1" wouldn't work..

I took the sump out one January with engine in situ...not an easy job..but it can be done (preferably not outside and in January).
http://vitesse.no/Garage%202008-2009.html

Quoted from Hammy

Just stripped my replacement swing spring for a herald 13/60 can you tell me where you bought the new bolts nuts and spacers etc to renovate thanks

Bought the bolts from ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3711.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

New thrust buttons and nylocs nuts from James Paddock:
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=114006
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=GHF221

I made up my own spacers from some brass tubing I found at work.

You need to re centrr your jet assembly.  Unscrew outer part until piston drops then keep letting it go up n down as you screw back the jet outer.

All assembled, new nuts n bolts, spacers and thrust buttons and plenty of moly grease

Nut should be tightened to 70 lbs/ft from my reading of the workshop manual. It should already be pre-loaded from before so no need to set that up. Just tighten to 70 lbs/ ft is my understanding.

Quoted from RobPearce

It should be that the washer has hit the shoulder of the (unthreaded part of the) stud. This is different to the nut running out of thread, which Jon read your earlier reply as stating.

Ah..yes, that's what I meant.

It was pretty tight before it bottomed out...I do have those washers and using poly bushes too, which are thicker than the rubber ones. It's solid in there. I just turned until I couldn't anymore, which I guess means it's hit the non threaded part of those studs? It's seriously tight, no movement whatsoever.

Thanks for that..the front ones I found bottomed out when the nyloc hits the unthreaded part of the shank. The rear ones seemed to bottom out to with a fairly tight fit..so all good

Just put my differential back in (not the best job scrabbling under the car).  Wondering what to  tighten up the back horizontal fixings too and also the front vertical nuts....the more I screw these in the more the bushes squish up so not quite sure how far I go?  
Many thanks

I've got some old LBM-10 grease which is grey in colour. Does this contain graphite or molybdenum disulphide do you know? Would this be ok? Is this like Moly grease?

Quoted from Dogsbody47uk

Suggest you smear all the spring parts with graphite grease before reassembly. Cheers, Dave.

Whats the advantage using graphite over normal lithium grease?

Just back from my friends brother who shot blasted and gave them a coat of red-oxide   Probably spray the struts in satin black but will leave the leaf in the red.

Flinger tapped back, oil seal now rseated ok and flinger found to also be rattling due to shaft taper....  I cleaned up, and pushed up against hub. dollops of glue gun around the fit, brought back by a few mm and then hot air gun to let it run in around fit. Plenty more glue gun aorund shaft above flinger (for good measure). Looks somewhat unsightly but it'll do the job 😀 and shaft spins nicely still.

Quoted from glang

The other thing is does it really matter? Would you dismantle the rear hubs and everything anyway? What about just pushing the seal in as far as possible, then slide the flinger along without making contact and getting on with enjoying driving it.....

  of course. ..was never going to completely dismantle.   Just going to tap flinger away from hubeing. .enough to then tap the seal back in and then tap the flinger back along. The bearings are all good anyway.  Only brought to light due to the seal moving after pushing lots of grea see through.

Quoted from glang

well my manual does talk about putting the seal in with the 'lips trailing' and if you look at the Rimmers picture here:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005909
it does look directional......

You're right..it does say that. I'll have a look tomorow and report back.

No grease on the drums.

Looking at a picture of an inner seal. It looks like it has 2 leather seals on each side of its casing. Can't see how it matters which way round it goes?

JUst a little resistance then the oil seal moved slightly followed by very black old grease.  I pumped til the grease looked good.
Looking at the other. .it also has a gap and I guess over time the seal has been pushed out through grease pressure?

So, couldn't leave it alone. What seems to have happened (as you saud)is the oil seal has moved out and is snagging on the flinger.  Will try n tap it away and then tap the seal  back in.
When i tap the seal in, should the seal be flush with the hub casing. ..ie. how far should it go in?

The other drive shaft has a similar gap too. the difference I've found is that this oil seal is now moving around the housing as opposed to the other which is fixed to it....  Rather loathed to start messing.

Just cleaning up my driveshafts and decided to pump through grease as the stuff in there looks pretty black. I've noticed the oil flinger/ stoneguard has a gap around it of 3mm and I can see the metal oil seal. What should this gap be?

Only wondering as I think it moved slightly away when grease pumping. I tapped it back a little but it caused the movement of the hub to become stiffer, so backed off and its moves smoothly again.  I'm guessing this pushes against the oil seal  now which in turn pushes against the bearing..causing a bit of stiffness. I can't see me closing the gap without the hub becoming stiffer.

Cheers

Ok, found the rubber buttons: 114006  at the usual places. Paddocks do them 60p each and you'll need 8 altogether.

Just cleaned the top plate after having disassembled the spring to find it is stamped with "Front"..also did what midgeman did and ground a line for re-assembly. My only thought was that the spring has at some point been put back in the opposite way round as the "front" marker was on towards the back...?  I shall put it back as intended when all is done.

Ahh..I see..just found them on mine. Where can I get new rubber buttons n bushes?