yorkshire_spam

Great prompt to remind me to get my renewals sorted.

Hope you are enjoying the Sprint while you have the chance! 

Had a listen to the videos and couldn't really place it. I'd go round the suspension with a pry bar and check nothing moves and none of the chassis brackets are pulling loose or anything like that.

As a curve ball answer - could it be bonnet related? Hinge bushes or cones causing something to knapp on the bulkhead? I guess not - first video is with bonnet open - so it's not the cones or anything hitting the bulkhead - could be something in the hinge boxes though I guess?

It's a shame, I was happy to get stuff from Moss from time to time, but won't use Rimmers unless they are the only possible source. My usage of Moss dropped a lot when they stopped opening weekends - it was great to be able to pop in for stuff if they had it stock-on-hand.

What engine is it? IIRC BP(R)5ES or 6ES are right for a Triumph 4 cylinder but I could be wrong.

19 hours ago, Clive said:

The only way to tell for sure is to mark the input flange. turn BOTH 1/4 shafts  exactly 1 rotation, and count how many rotations the input makes. if a smidge under 4, it is 3.89, a bit over 3 1/2 is 3.63. 

I've never been massively confident trying this method myself, I struggle to discern the difference between 3.89 / 3.63. I guess if I was more careful about it I could tell by whether the flange is in the "half-past to quarter to" or "quarter-to to on the hour" quadrant when it stops. Out of frustration I've ended up opening the diff up and counting the crown-wheel and the pinion teeth and doing the division. 

2 hours ago, Tim Hunt said:

Why would you adjust brakes with wheels removed? It is much easier to judge when a brake is just binding by rotating the whole wheel and hub assembly.

IMHO swings and roundabouts on cars like the Spitfire - with the wheel on as you say it's easier to get a feel for the adjustment, but with the wheel on you can't adjust with the weight on the axle, which makes things tricky for the cable adjustments vs axle droop.

You need the weight on the axles to get the cable adjustment right, so I've always done them wheel off with an axle stand under the upright. 

Thusly:

As @Wendy Dawes says - eBay:

ANG on eBay

Or p/n V5435 on Canley's I think: Canley Classics

On 30/03/2024 at 16:38, johnny spit said:

Hi,  is the 1300 head still available ?  just discovered a crack on mine between chambers 😞  

Sorry, both the heads, whilst still in my possession, are spoken for

Awesome stuff. I'm trying to avoid the temptation to do this to my car... but sooner or later I'm going to have to address the bodywork. 

Awesome stuff @John Tomlinson

My Spitfire 1500 sits like this:

• standard shocks all round
• stiffened shorter front springs (p/n TT4301) + 8mm spacers (just springs was too low)
• new rear spring - wouldn't sit right, so lowering block (3/4" IIRC) to get it where it needed to be

5 hours ago, Clive said:

It will fit behind the seats of a vitesse, so we are sorted. I think.

Awesome, many thanks @Clive! 

The door skin has made it from Maidstone to Potton, Beds. 

If anyone can get it any further North let me know! 

Wow, that chain/tensioner really at the limit!

10 hours ago, RichardC said:

Hi;

Is the 13/60 head (515573) still available?

Cheers,

Richard

Hi Richard, yes that one is still available. Can be collected from Halifax or Filey in Yorkshire - or as above, posted at cost. 

It tentatively looks like we have pick-up this weekend from Maidstone and transport as far as Bedfordshire, if that works out I'll probably be back begging for help with the next stage. 

Sorry for the delayed reply! As above I use:
grc180    radiator cap 13lbs later models

Would anybody be able to pick up a Dolomite front door skin from Maidstone for me and get it a bit further North? 

No rush, drop me a PM/message if you can help me out. 

Did it come as a full kit? Or just the rolling shell? Ain't nothing you can't sort dude!

Get a wix or similar thread adapter, then you'll have plenty of decent filters to choose from. (wix  24037 I think) 

Oooh might come and see the finishers! Flamborough Head is only 6.9 miles from here! 

1 hour ago, Dannyb said:

I've  now removed the old valve guides and waiting for new ones to arrive.

I'm toying with the idea to get the head skimmed to raise compression. On the head calc guide on a standard engine and standard UK head it calculates 30.1 thou to get it to 9.5 .2.1.

Am I waisting .y time or stick with 9.2.1

Danny

Unless the head needs a skim I wouldn't bother for that amount of difference. 

I measured the chamber volume on my head (it had some chamber work as well as porting/flowing) and took mine up to 10.2:1 which was as far as I wanted to go with that engine. 

Because the ring is usually larger than a standard spanner they often won't fit... but when they do (especially, as you say, in a tight spot) they are a godsend!

For stuff like removing the rad from the Spitfire I just use a plain ring and a ratchet ring and crack on - lighter and quicker than a ratchet handle+socket in my opinion. 

Beyond A. A++ If somebody has stopped for you and taken time out of their run to raid their stash to get you back on the road they deserve as a minimum the part returned (or a replacement in the same or better condition) and a few beers/beer vouchers as a thank-you!