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Clive last won the day on June 15

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  1. To annoy us. Same thing about earwigs. When I was a kid we had a caravan that always had some earwigs in it, despite use of various insect killing stuff (most of which is now banned I expect, and for good reason)
  2. The key number is usually on the lock barrels, others may be able to confirm. Otherwise your options are limited to replacement locks or finding somebody with a lot of keys to try and you getting lucky. Or try a heritage certificate, if they have a factory record of the key numbers it is on the certificate. And hope nobody has changed them.
  3. Woodlice are a mystery, they pop up in all sorts of odd places. Our old house used to get them in the bathroom, nowhere else. Maybe there was a big colony under the floor. I do't get to use a proper mower. A strimmer for work (with those flippin not autofeed reels) and Gill mows teh grass at home as I used to do it wrong. Bees I like, but if I open a window they spend all their time hitting the glass either side of the open one.... missing the opening constantly. Shower gel, only runs out when you are soaked and the new one is sitting in the kitchen. Not to mention bog roll....
  4. I really don't think that totally explains it. Just checked, and I reckon the x sectional area is about 80% for 2/3rds of the tube. But the last bit just seems to go on and on. As I have now been thinking further I wonder if I am making more effort to squeeze the contents from the "thin" end right down. I hate waste.... As to cardboard, that will, as always, be down to the beancounters. But I think my tube was naked when bought.
  5. Firstly, flies. They get in the house, and I have an immense dislike of them. But why do they fly in circles around the ceiling lights, even when the lights are not on? Next, toothpaste. Is it just me, or does a tube go down to almost empty, then like magic it still manages to last a good week after? I am convinced I am consistent with the amount on the brush. I will no doubt come up with some more things that bother me in due course. Answers/theories welcome
  6. Type 14, but they are different! Larger pad, (but discs are smaller) and the hose comes out of the back of the calier, rather than the top.
  7. Mintex 1144, work very much like the old asbestos pads in terms of performance (a good thing) Beware, dolomite and spitfire pads, (and calipers) are not interchangeable MGB533 1144 A shade under £40 delivered off evilbay
  8. If a few months, they should be able to keep the actual paint, and know exactly what colour primer too (that can make a massive difference, especially on "thin" colours like my yellow spitfire) But speak to the bodyshop. Some are happy to make up 5L of paint or whatever they think they will need. And get you to look after it. But most seem to make up just what the job in hand requires, so none wasted or stored.
  9. I am in Brighton. It is a 3 rail late mkIV Sputfire box. No overdrive parts though, so would need your adaptor plate, od etc. I bought it as a recon box from Speedy Spares (mainly rootes now) I have a local gearbox man who is good and very reasonable. He has built many triumph boxes for club members...
  10. Have a measure of the input shaft length, tip to bearing/main case. No idea where you are, but I have a late spit IV j type box here that I may be persuaded to part with, and I know a local who could swap your OD parts over to it. Or if it is easier, see what you have and purchase the correct OD conversion complete. A d type OD will be plenty strong enough if you cant find a j type.
  11. Clive

    Steering rack

    Tim, are you certain it isn't the lower steering joint? I had issues even with a brand new solid UJ type having significant play. Otherwise the inner ball joints can be reshimmed (or shims removed) to tighten them up. Lastly there is a tube bush on the passenger side that can wear badly. In fact it is all adjustable, the only real issue is of the rack has a play centrally, but tight at the ends.
  12. Ben, there are several varieties of the freelander stud. If using steel wheels you need to be careful about how far the thread goes. ie it needs to be almost to the very bottom of the stud. I used ford studs, seem to work just fine. Just had to grind an edge off the head, not exactly difficult. And the ford nuts have stainless caps on (or some do)
  13. Ben, maybe worth actually converting your car to M12. Honestly, they are so much more reassuring when you see them fitted. Then buy a set of genuine ford wheel nuts.... (depending on what wheels you have fitted, but the ford have the 60 degree taper)
  14. Worth shopping around with brokers come renewal.... Bear in mind the cars value, it may be cost effective to get the door fixed properly unless the dent can come out easily. Try a search for "smart repairs". I had the scuffed corner of the bumper on a modern sorted, £150 all in which wasn't too bad. Paintless dent removal for a small dent seemed to be about £75 upwards. This is all in Brighton, so prices similar to where you are asking. But a picture would certainly help.
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