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Clive

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Clive last won the day on August 24

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  1. Getting the side seals off is a nightmare unless you have a suitable puller to get the bearing off. Some places used to sell (and still may) exchange 1/4 shafts with new seals and bearings. Saying that, it may just need the front seal swapping. A length of metal bar bolted to the flange is the way to undo the nut, and ideally fit a new split pin. There is also a breather on the drivers side on top of the diff, it is just a split pin that needs a good wiggle to make sure the breather is open. You can't see it, but you can feel it!
  2. There should be a permanent live to the bulb, and the switch is the earth. It needs to be sitting in its hole to provide that earth when the boot is opened.
  3. I had a similar issue on my Vitesse6 where the glass topped fuel pump would empty, and took ages to pump fuel through on startup. That turned out to be weak valves in the pump itself. I found that out by removing the fuel hoses from the pump and "feeling" the suck and blow from the inlet/outlets. I cheated and used a low pressure electric pump (from a 25 year old Yamaha bike, genuine Mitsubushi pump which still has points fitted just like the old SU pumps)
  4. Jim, is this A or J type? I suspect calling Overdrive Repairs or the other Overdrive specialist may be the way to get an accurate diagnosis, they tend to nail things very accurately.
  5. Can be had for £35 on ebay, proper suppliers of securon belts. My best bit of advice is to measure how long a stalk you need, from the bolt fixing to the clippy bit. Too short is a nightmare, too long is gangly and really annoying. they start at 15cm, and go up in 15cm intervals. (on my spit everybody sells a stoopidly long version, but I fitted the short 15cm type and they work a treat. TR6 is probably different) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250356158120? for the 500/15 change the 15 to 30, 45 for longer stalks. There is also an option of an adjustable length webbing "stalk", 500/w
  6. Don hoods are excellent. I believe the steering column bushes are the same as the small chassis cars, in which case I would give Canley Classics a call or email.
  7. Full Triumph paint codes here, herald near the bottom https://rimmerbros.com/c/Triumph-Paint-Chart?srsltid=AfmBOooFQLwTOotMusXnd9CZ2iirPi08pQJG-tsUsFuiHXFlmunPwLpe
  8. I though Heralds were all Triumph White, code 19? Then again I have no idea who the trusted source of info is thesedays. So many charts out there.
  9. Sadly not as I have "big brakes" that need a 14" wheel to fit. I know there are M12 studs that work with steel wheels, but finding the correct type with the extra thread is not easy.
  10. Have a look at the online guides. Or better still, go Android!
  11. Iphone? If so there are plenty of guides to fix it (before sending it)
  12. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371110008763?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OUd2zYVDSHq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=24PmtHVJQby&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Company is jcc, part of demon tweaks. I think they are a bit longer, but I have alloys. And yes, straight swap.
  13. I have just swapped the studs on the front of my dolomite from 3/8 to 7/16 I used Ford escort etc studs. Bought from ebay from one of thd big suppliers. I will see if I can find a link
  14. I doubt any of the suppliers keep short engines on the shelf. So you may be better getting a local engineering shop to grind the crank, rebore and supply the bits. Canleys can supply the cam, or indeed any other engine parts you would need. I know the phones are not manned all day, but try various times and persistence will pay off. Maybe I am lucky, but last time I called I got straight through.
  15. I had a dolly 1850 dizzy a bit like that. The pins that the springs attach to were very worn, the springs a bit stretched. All meant I was getting very little mechanical advance from the idle setting. I managed to buy a new baseplate part (actually from a saab, but same basic engine) and soem "new" 1850 springs that were useless. But found some others, and played with them until I got something close to the factory advance curve. I had to weld the baseplate up a little because the saab must have had a much larger max advance. All very heath robinson, but the car drove better after.
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