Jump to content

Clive

Club Member
  • Posts

    4,814
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    74

Clive last won the day on May 21

Clive had the most liked content!

2 Followers

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Clive's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/14)

  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

469

Reputation

  1. I am going to try the foam type seal listed for a mk3 spit/TR6 About to order one now back from Spa
  2. I have had 2 header rail seals from COH Baines. Both have allowed dribblege which is not particularly good. The seals are all rubber, and feel a tad hard. So is there abetter seal available? I was wondering if a foam rubber seal would be more compliant?
  3. Another explanation is that the number plate was transferred, and whatever car that went (or subsequently) on no longer exists and the registration was lost. I know DVLA were issuing the A registration for all older cars until they changed sometime in the 90s, often using Scottish non suffix registrations (lots of older cars with a S in the reg) Not that any of that actually helps in your quest!
  4. My understanding is that youare correct! (unless it is a french registered historic vehicle)
  5. I would be looking at Bosch if I needed a new coil. Available as ballasted and non-ballasted from lots of places.
  6. I am getting more certain that the new bowls hold much less heat (or equally heat up/cool down MUCH faster) but we never had the issue of the bowls getting really hot while the contents stayed cold. I am glad I have sussed the time reduction, it got tedious having to wash porridge off the turntable. Not as bad as getting couscous off a pyrex jug once it had been left to dry out, but messy all the same. I did a bit of reading about bowl shapes. Square is a poor choice in the MW. But I am intrigued about the patterns of heating. We used to do an expt at school to calculate the wavelength of the microwaves, using a bar of chocolate. But that could be used to test where heats up the fastest too. Needs many bars of choc though, and at different heights. Gill may approve.
  7. I suspect finding a disc brake conversion will be easier, and is probably a well trodden path. Rear brakes will be fine as they are, the car is light and the last thing you want/need is too much braking at the rear. One of the biggest issues is friction material. The usual "white box" (or stuff bearing the name of a company that used to make quality stuff) is not very good at all. I have found NOS asbestos pads/shoes to be much much better. Mintex 1144 are probably as close as you can get to those but in asbestos free material. Of course, it is well worth trying the brakes as they are, but checked over, adjusted and so on. But I do remember my first car (avenger) and that had drums all round. I experienced brake fade many times, but always when I was enthusiastic on some long downhill twisty sections of roads. A used disc brake setup off a herald or spitfire should not be too expensive, assuming it is a fairly simple swap.
  8. Clive

    Body alone weight

    Is this a Herald? If so remember the body is in 3 parts, Roof (obvious) but the bulkhead/front is not really attached to the rear "tub" at all. The join is by hex head screws through the chassis. The usual way of getting to the underside for serious repairs is to take the roof, tub and bulkhesd off seperately. And I have always rolled the tub onto its side for repairs. If you are using some sort of tube to act as a "spine" you could brace from chassis mounting points to the tube, trouble there is that those mounting points may be needing attention? Across the doors you can brace between hinge mountings to door striker, or weld to the B post. Each body section can easily be lifted by 2 people, I would hazard a guess all 3 bits total 250kg, but it is only a guess.
  9. I have it working happily on 1min 40. Seems to do the trick. Leave 2 mins, stir, ready. I think the old bowls acted as a heat sink, the new ones possibly have a lower specific heat capacity too. This has been bothering me. NO! Though I am partial to a bit of "granola"
  10. Bear with me... We recently changed our crockery from stoneware to some rather thinner/lighter stuff. Think it may be glass based, but is certainly tough enough and looks solid white. Before, I used to microwave my porridge for 2mins. Perfect once stirred, left 2 mins. With teh new bowls, exact same quantities, microwave and 2 mins. Boils over every time. My only thoughts are the thinner/lighter material holds less heat, so more going into the porridge? Or is there another explanation. The bowls are slightly steeper sided and small diameter, not by much though.
  11. http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/ Use that to compare a herald 948 (which I expect has the same gearbox ratios and diff as your car had originally) with the 1147 herald (later box and 4.11 diff) You can see how may RPM for a speed in each gear. At 70 originally it would be doing 5000rpm, with a 4.11 about 4300. That is like an extra gear, far more relaxed. Worth noting there are 2 types of 4.11 diff, the early type with small 1/4 shaft splines, and later (1967ish?) with the bigger/stronger splines. I assume you would need the earlier type, but worth checking.
  12. Your existing diff will he quicker off the line, but you will quickly be in top gear. A 4.11 will allow you to stay in each gear to much higher speeds. And as the car has a similar weight to a herald, matching the factory gearing to the engine makes sense.
  13. Clive

    Manifold studs

    Those pipes often get full of crud. I suspect it is just rust stuff from the years when the car probably wasn't well lokked after. So a good engine and rad flush (including the heater) is essential. Undo every rubber hose, poke a garden hose up every one, then the other way round. And do the block drain, often gunked up too (drain is under the manifolds towards the rear of the engine, poke wire and stuff in there, press the end of the hose against it, several times) Heaters usually full of silt, flush that both ways a few times until clear. Then chuck some radflush or whatever in the system, leave for a few drives, drain, flush through with clean water, then fill with 30% blue antifreeze.
  14. 3 angle valve seats are cheap (or were) and help. I might even do that on the vitesse!
  15. Aha, I have consilted the oracle, and yes, the 1250 has the 18 58 cam (late mk2 and mk3 spit had a sportier cam, which I had assumed was used far all mk2 spits, every day is a schoolday) Definately worth looking at the compression ratio though, I know my 1600 vitesse needs about a 40thou skim to get things a bit perkier with a MK2 vitesse cam.
×
×
  • Create New...