Dan16v

Quoted from Spitfire6

You change you oil more often than every 12 months though? 😀

Cheers,
Iain.

well what a pain that was to get off, no room for a ratchet head between the chassis leg and the sump plug even if a socket would fit.  Stilsons didn't seem to work as it was too rounded.

I ended up filing it square again to fit the wrong end of a socket with a 3/8" square drive, allen key bit in the socket with a decent size spanner on it with a big bar, but even with a 2ft bar it took quite a bit of force to get it off!

Nice new magnetic sump plug with a proper nut is on there now, hopefully it will be much easier next year.

Quoted from timireson

10mm is what I used.
Tim

Does anyone know what connecting ball size the Rover struts are? most seem to be 10mm but the product discription on the ones I have purchased dont tell me.  Thanks.

Quoted from re5rotary

Hi 13/60 Herald or 1300 FWD would at least give you the t knob and fittings  regards terry

Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo

Might have a spare knob lying around somewhere Dan, can have a dig around for you?

Quoted from chunky63

Try this company as their technical help has been excellent helping our work design team select an appropriate strut and end fittings
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/

Does anyone know where you can get an original T-peice style Mk1 GT6 choke cable?  Someone has put one of the cheap twist and lock ones on which has broken and it would be nice to put an original style one on.   Ive looked through the usual suppliers and not had any joy.

Quoted from timireson

I used the rover 200 one from above company but they are not strong enough to hold open bonnet.
Not looked it anymore by but would be nice to hear how you do.
Mines mk3 gt6.
Tim

Quoted from chunky63

Here's another link to help
https://youtu.be/i9oiOjriEsg

Quoted from chunky63

Try this company as their technical help has been excellent helping our work design team select an appropriate strut and end fittings
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/

I have been looking around at some of the GT6 bonnet gas strut kits, all of them seem to be for a Mk3 and im trying to fit one to a Mk1 which they dont fit.....and im not keen to spend £121 that TSSC sell them for

They look fairly easy to make using the Rover 200 rear gas struts and the top triangle plate that mounts onto the bonnet, but has anyone done one for a mk1 and has any pictures of how it’s been mounted to the chassis at the front as it’s quite different to a Mk3?  Ideally it would be good to use any existing holes rather than drilling the chassis

Quoted from Sheepy

yes but then thezy may ruin it even more, or worse completely mess it and the sump up!

i have a set of sockets at home, that have a grip pattern on the inside for just that purpose. as you turn the socket like you are undoing a bolt, the socket grips and undoes the bolt
i will have a look to see what make they are!

cheers
shaun

Quoted from cliftyhanger

I have a set of snap on ones (actually made by Irwin!)

If you get the plug out (and you will, I find stilsons best. Pete had to make a socket up out of serious steel, and even put a taper on the socket) I would use a gearbox plug. Hex head and a magnet attached. All good!

Quoted from cook1e

Get a proper socket which is the correct tool for the job, my socket set (which is a good quality one)  includes 4 sided sockets in 3/8, 1/2 and 9/16 sizes. This allows proper contact without rounding off and more force to be applied. However I'm not sure whether there is enough clearance on a Spit/GT6 between the sump and the chassis rail to use a socket and ratchet/breaker bar so you may have to raise the engine.

thanks all, well i tried yet more heat and the spanner would hold on it ok but even with a bit of pipe over the spanner to get a bit more leverage, still no luck, even hitting the spanner with a decent weight mallet wouldn't shock the taper undone didn't do anything.

The problem is also getting it high enough off the ground to get a good sized pair of stilsons on it, unfortunately I don't have a pit or a decent set of ramps so getting more leverage on it is trick - i don't suppose anyone local to me (im near Sandhurst in Berkshire) has a pit and a good sized pair of stilsons?

Thanks for the tip on the magnetic sump plug with 3/4" (19mm) hex head, sounds much easier

Quoted from ferny

They're 7/16, unless my brain is going wonky. Looks fairly rounded now.

Try tightening it which requires less energy and could free it off enough to let you undo it.

Quoted from ferny

They're 7/16, unless my brain is going wonky. Looks fairly rounded now.

Try tightening it which requires less energy and could free it off enough to let you undo it.

Afternoon all

Just doing the annual service on the GT6, its the first time I have tried to remove the sump plug since owning the car and its stuck solid.  I've read a fair few posts about how people have gotten them undone, a fair bit of heat on it though doesn't seem to make any difference, although its a bit limited how much leverage I can get on the 11mm spanner.

Looking at the plug it doesn't seem to go in square to the face of the sump, its more noticeable when the spanner is on it than you can see in the picture below, but being tapered do these things still seal up if cross threaded? or in general are the sump plug holes not square to the raised face?  Given it was serviced only 12 months ago, it should have been off recently so im surprised its that tight.

Quoted from JSBulmer

Dan

Have you got a picture of what you need?  I have a box of old carbureators (probably 10 or more) and various parts.  If I know what to look for I may be able to help out.

Quoted from JSBulmer

Dan

Have you got a picture of what you need?  I have a box of old carbureators (probably 10 or more) and various parts.  If I know what to look for I may be able to help out.

Quoted from vitessesteve

I can see some 2nd carbs on eBay:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/stromberg-carburettor?clk_rvr_id=862891840666&rmvSB=true

Alternately ask a Triumph breaker such as Spitfire Graveyard or Wins International.

From memory the diaphragms have a tag/locating lump on 1 side, have you got it the right way round?  

Quoted from byakk0

in playing with my carbs recently I noticed the same thing. Get a screw on the cover too tight and the needle jams up...turns out I did have a bent needle. Thank goodness for spares!
+1 on checking the little tab is in the slot. It's on the underside of the outer rim.
See this photo, although it is inverted. Not sure if yours will have the locator tab on the inner ring.

Quoted from thescrapman

If you have the bottom adjusters, have you centered the jets fully??

Remove top cover, wind jet up until level with the bridge, loosen jet holder, putting finger in the orifice, lift and drop the piston a few times.

Tighten it all up, lower jet 2 full turns (for starters) and Bobs your uncle.

Of course if you have done all that I do not have a clue.

Cheers

Colin

Evening all, I have finally traced the cause of my needle binding up on one of my CD150 carbs on the Mk1 GT6, the carb top/cover must be distorted as it still does it with new needles and jets and goes away when you swap them over between carbs, if you back one of the screws off half a turn it goes away.

The question is, where can I get a replacement?  its the early bottom mixture adjustment type (3092 from memory) and Ebay hasn't come up trumps yet and I can't see any new parts being available.