Dan16v
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Everything posted by Dan16v
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have you any larger versions of the picture, it shows up quite small? any idea what year car the plate is from? Dan
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yes, its the same badge pre and post refurb
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Dealer plate put back on this weekend
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Someone kindly sent me a picture after reading my Triumph World article. Carrs Autosales showroom when it first opened, dealing in Standard and Hudson cars
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Thanks Steve, interesting that it has 3 addresses in there. For a sizeable dealership that was around for many years im surpised I can find little information on it
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thanks, that gives me a good starting point, will start to see if I can get it to fit a bit better. I think the back of the overider sits up against the rubber donut
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Before I start playing around with the hinge adjustment, does anyone have a good guide as to where to start and which bits best to adjust first e.g. if I need the bonnet to move back 5-10mm etc. Pic of my bonnet hinge for reference
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and the optional formula wheel listed under options
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its worth getting hold of this book, its got all kind of good info in it http://www.amazon.co.uk/Triumph-Spitfire-GT6-Guide-Originality/dp/1861268610 under Mk2 spit its got the standard interior
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and another
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I have found a few body plates from that dealer, one must be a sill plate and the other a glove box plate or something.
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I don't think its as far up as the A23, it was just at the end of South End road, where it looks like a bit office building has been built on the corner. Im not managing to find much info on it though
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well at some point some of the paint will need redoing as the filler is quite thick and has cracked. Maybe I just need to get some bits of wood and some jacks and start playing with the door adjustment
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the fit was as its shown in the photos before the struts went on, the struts just push the top edge of the bonnet forward a mm or so as the bonnet has a natural bit of movement/twist and then it touches the door. I'm assuming the hinges have adjustment, but I think its more the door that's at fault, unless some can see that the bonnet top edge gap between the scuttle and bonnet is way off.
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thanks Mark, I got an email back from a garage a few doors along from where they were with the info below, it would be great if some photos existed Yes Carrs were a Triumph dealer next door to us. Superb prewar style showroom, parquet wood flooring, red carpets between the vehicles and unusually the showroom had “Concave “ glass windows so that you could view the vehicles without reflections. Salesmen wore three piece suits and were terribly deferential in a most charming manner. They had a small three pump petrol forecourt National Benzol I think. They later became Fiat dealer however the site was sold for development during the late 70s or possibly early 80s.
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you have to book before hand, but they will let you search through the old microfiche scans for your car, you can find the shipping document and the build slip, its a lot more interesting than just seeing it written on a heritage certificate. They are closing for refurb from the end of the month till feb though.
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I did see that, but checking your link again the company director is listed in old Coulsdon, which is strangely the same town that the first owner of my GT6 came from, so it must be the same one. I think they must have been fairly big, the engine inmy car is not the orginal one and I managed to track the car the engine came from and it went to the same dealer almost a year later
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I’m not sure if this is the right place for this topic, but I spent an interesting afternoon looking at the build archives at the Heritage Motor Center and tracked down the shipping slip and build slip for my GT6. The dealer is listed as Carrs Auto Sales LTD Croydon, I can find a little bit of info on the net that they were a big Triumph dealer back in the day and an address that doesn’t exist today (2 standard house, south End, Croydon) But I can’t seem to find much else, does anyone have any info? Some pictures of the dealer’s stickers would be a great addition to add to the car. Dan
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passenger door again
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The passenger door is terrible, the gap at the front looks ok, but the gap at the bottom and rear looks horrible, you can get your fingers underneath it – can the door be shimmed back in on one hinge to move the bottom in and move it forward so it doesn’t catch on the rear bottom edge?
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The driver’s door has a gap at the back like this and tight at the front with the bonnet
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Evening all I’m wondering if anyone could help with my alignment issues. Recently fitting a bonnet gas strut kit has highlighted that the door to bonnet gap is tight on one side and wide on the other. Is there a general guide on how to do this, e.g start with the bonnet and work backwards with the doors? If I start with the bonnet, does the scuttle to bonnet gap look correct? It’s fairly even all the way around. The bonnet sits nicely on one side, but looks to be at a funny angle on the other and tilts towards the front of the car – after taking the overrides off do I just undo the nuts on that one side and lift it up a tad to get it level or is it not that easy? It’s quite possible it’s had a sill put on extremely badly on that side as can be seen by all the filler and it tucks under a bit too much.
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passenger side - gap is massively different with the door this is all without the strut kit on
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morning all I have finally finished my kit and seems to hold the bonnet up quite nicely, it doesn't give much assistance in the first 30 degrees of opening the bonnet but apart from that seems to be a big help. One problem I do have is that my drivers door to bonnet clearance is fairly tight ~2mm clearance. With the strut kit on it pushes the bonnet a couple of mm back until its just lightly touching, which isn't a surprise since there is a fair amount of force in those gas struts. the bonnet gap seems fairly consistent between the windscreen scuttle so im thinking its the door, but the door doesn't look like its go loads of clearance at the back to drop it down. The passenger side is quite different, there is loads of room, but then again the bonnet and door gaps on that side are shocking.
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James Paddock had a decent size hex head plug with sealing washer and magnet for about £8, not a taper thread but probably a bit easier to get off next year