Dan16v
-
Posts
103 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Dan16v
-
6838 wrote: I have set them so the smallest amount of play can be felt at the wheel, a few miles on it I have found gives it a little bit more play. The old seals fell apart on me so no option to use the old ones. Not having a whole load of luck out of the supplier of the new seals but will see how I go. Some of the parts these days are c**p, the ball joint rubbers have already started to craze and they have only done 30 miles! The supplier confirmed that these larger seals do need to be cut down and that the seals have 'accidentally' gotten into the supply chain of the thinner ones but declined to comment as to why they arent a press fit. How annoying that hours have been wasted sorting out yet another poor fitting parts!
-
peterhlewis wrote:the spec is clear 0.002" to 0.008" endfloat both will give some rock at the tyre but at 0.008" you get a lot more than you wish , but its right never tight unless you want a seizure and ££££s dont remember but have a thought some were all selling tr7 seals for the small chassis cars not checked the P numbers. certainly many were hopeless oversized. soak the old overnight and refit them Pete I have set them so the smallest amount of play can be felt at the wheel, a few miles on it I have found gives it a little bit more play. The old seals fell apart on me so no option to use the old ones. Not having a whole load of luck out of the supplier of the new seals but will see how I go. Some of the parts these days are c**p, the ball joint rubbers have already started to craze and they have only done 30 miles!
-
1684 wrote:The felt was too big on my new bearings compared to the old. I cut the felt with a razor blade around the circumference. Probably about twice as thick as the original. did your thicker seal look like the one in my picture?
-
Nick_Jones wrote: If it's got a wire clip on it then it is the later 16PB caliper. They are MUCH easier. You just put the piston in all the way fit the dust seal and then the clip. Nick yep, that sounds like the one
-
esxefi wrote:was that steel cup washer sitting in the hub recess?it should be a press fit that may be why it feels so tight :-/ the old ones are a press fit, the new ones are loose in the hub and come out when you take the disc off apart from it turning, would that effect the pre-load on the bearings?
-
6838 wrote: after a good 30 mile drive today you could feel a bit more play at the wheel so the felt seals seem to be compacting, I have done the bearings up a little bit tighter and see how they go with a few more miles, I rarely do long trips in it so I would have thought the bearings wouldn't get too much of a chance to overheat if a little tight. it seems a bit more play has developed in the drivers side, taking the disc off, the felt seal looks like it compresses fairly well and the rear bearing can sit against the face of the hub without putting much compression onto the seal. they do look thicker than the ones that came off ..... what does everyone think, felt seal too big?
-
markcro wrote:A total bugger as you end up fluting around for ages. But it is all just down to knack and cursing alot! :P I accidentally pulled one off this afternoon, after much swearing, the only way I found to get it to go back on was to push the piston back as far as it would go and this then holds the seal on fairly well and stops it moving around while your trying to put the wire on, then used a pair of pliers to stretch the wire out and on it went....I will be more careful next time to not pull one off!
-
esxefi wrote:I would tighten the nut up by hand fairly tight with a spanner only. go for a gentle drive with no serious braking to introduce extra heat then check the clearance of the bearings.the seal should settle in. I personally am not convinced by there being a clearance in taper roller bearings. this may be why they are prone to early failure on triumphs(any clearance adds a percussion effect to the rollers resulting in localised impacting on the surface,i'm talking atomic scales here) the best bet is to fit them with a shimmed sleeve kit to lock them up solid with minimal clearance. if you look at modern bearing set ups they nearly all have a pre load on the taper roller bearing.even triumph stipulate this in the diffs as do all manufacturers. i'm willing to be proved wrong here :P discuss. after a good 30 mile drive today you could feel a bit more play at the wheel so the felt seals seem to be compacting, I have done the bearings up a little bit tighter and see how they go with a few more miles, I rarely do long trips in it so I would have thought the bearings wouldn't get too much of a chance to overheat if a little tight.
-
heraldcoupe wrote:How thick is the felt? An awful lot of aftermarket felt seals are excessively thick, I would argue that they're not fit for purpose as the bearing cannot be properly loaded before the seal is completely crushed. Thinner felt seals should be available, but you may have to shop around to find them. Cheers, Bill. It was thicker than the old one, but the old one was rock solid it was so compacted, so not that easy to compare. I soaked the new ones overnight in oil, then put a big weight on them overnight to compress them and then wound the bearing up as tight as I could for a day to help compress it. I got them from canleys I think. I will see if they compress a bit over time, I assume that if the bearings are too loose you would be able to feel some movement in the wheel if you give it a hard pull but just won't give the slight rocking sound that your suppose to hear
-
JohnD wrote:Dan, Correct procedure is to do the nut up until you can feel/hear that it isn't rotating freely. Then back off until it is, just, and choose a position for the split pin as near to that as possible. John John, I have always found I can do them up quite tight before any real difference in the way they rotate can be felt. I had thought the slack was there to allow the bearing to expand and tighten up a bit once warmed up.
-
Evening all I have recently rebuilt the front hubs on the GT6, new stub axles, bearings and felt washers etc. When it came to setting the bearings I would them up as tight as I could, left them overnight and then backed them off, just doing them back up hand tight without a spanner. Even with them just hand tight there is no play in the wheel. I had heard that the new felt seals mask the bearing float thats needed to set them. Whats the general consensus, just do them hand tight and run it around for a while and check every so often? I'm loathed to back them off looser in case they go too loose.
-
Evening all, im in the process of trying to get the Gt6 to run a bit better as it doesn't like to rev much beyond 3k when under load, one of the carb floats doesnt return with a proper clonk and re-centering the jet doesnt seem to help either. Since I dont know the history of the carbs I thought new needles and o-rings with the washers replaced in the jet assembly would be a wise move to make sure everything works properly. The distributor has been rebuilt to eliminate that as it was quite worn out. The needles seem to be on most of the major parts sites, but getting a bit confused with the other bits. Do I need separate o-rings and washers or is the CARBURETTOR NEEDLE VALVE assembly the thing I need to get? I can only see float chamber o-rings on the paddocks site http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?categoryID=9&vehicleId=4 Also I have heard that the o-rings from some of the traditional parts suppliers dont fit very well and its best to go to carb rebuild specialist (who dont seem to want to reply at the moment) Any help would be much appreaicted
-
4526 wrote:Hi all, I need some new mintex pads for my spitfire 1500 as the ones that are on it now are nearly need for replacement . Now where to buy them & the cheapest ? I had a look in an old thread of me about brake pads and found the link of the ones i bought of ebay at the time.. Link doesn't work anymore :-/ But i know they where not to expensive. Any suggestions ? :) Wim Canleys seemed as cheap as anywhere else when I ordered some last month for the GT6
-
nang wrote:I've done it with just a hacksaw blade with a bit of rag wrapped around it as a 'handle'. Still a bastard of a job though :'( Tony. One side done, I had to take the whole hub/shaft assembly off the car to get decent access with the hacksaw, it was all so sized up and rusted you could barely see where the actual metal cup from the end of the bush was, it doesn't look like the bearings have been greased in years either.
-
Paul_Garvey wrote:May pay to put some copper-grease on the new bolts on reassembly. The whole front end has gone back together with Copper grease or normal grease, it pays off no end when you come to take it apart in a few years time
-
Paul_Garvey wrote:May pay to put some copper-grease on the new bolts on reassembly. The whole front end has gone back together with Copper grease or normal grease, it pays off no end when you come to take it apart in a few years time
-
nang wrote:I've done it with just a hacksaw blade with a bit of rag wrapped around it as a 'handle'. Still a bastard of a job though :'( Tony. thats how the front wishbones came off...I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to do it again on the back. I have ordered myself some 1mm thick cutting discs for the angle grinder and will give that a go
-
cliftyhanger wrote:Grinder with thin blade or decent hacksaw. Chop through the trunnions/bolt and it will knock out. Cheers, looks like a swine to get a hacksaw in there, might be a good excuse to get the air-saw I have been wanting for a while Its always tough to not cut into the surrounding VL or the hub
-
Does anyone have any tips or tricks in getting the rear trunnion/lower pivot bolt out the back of a mk1 GT6, its stuck solid by the looks of things I have given it a bit of heat and smacked the end of it with the old nut on, but its not budging and you cant get a socket on the other end of the bolt as the tie-bar mounting bracket is in the way of getting the socket on square on the plus side, if its this sized, thats probably whats causing the car to sit a little lop sided!
-
9077 wrote:Yes, there are metric ones and imperial ones. You have got the wrong ones! ;) But easy enough to open the holes out. I retained my original metal shims as I didn't like the look of the new shims. You will be well pleased with the Mintex, worth the effort! 8) thanks, I just had a look on the canley site to see if they do different types, they just do one but have the note below PLEASE NOTE If fitting GBP216MINTEX to cars using Type16P & Type 16PB Imperial calipers, pad pin holes will need to be drilled out to 1/4" diameter to suit the larger pad pins.
-
Afternoon all, im just in the process of finishing off the front suspension overhaul and have come to fit my Minetx 1144 pads, the problem I have is that the holes in the pads are smaller than the pad retaining pins on the callipers! is this normal? Also, the squeal shims I got from Canleys dont quite cover the entire piston, not sure if this is on purpose so the piston doesn't touch the pad square on first application to stop squeel. Cheers, Dan
-
7801 wrote: This is what I did, got a plain nut and used that then fitted the nylon one. I got it pretty much there and then once the VL was fitted to the car on the wishbones tightened up the final bit. Both my manuals say 90-100lb/ft once I gave the end of it a good thump with a wooden mallet to engage the tapper a bit more it kept it still enough to do up i got the torque setting of 65 ib/ft from here; http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Torque.html it felt quite tight at 65 with the big torque wrench
-
michael_charlton wrote:By fitting a nut to the split pin end, making sure the VL and shaft surfaces are clean an dry....just tap the shaft so the the two surfaces grip.The fixing nut and washer can then be tightened Never had a problem with that process the old shaft that came out had been greased so I put a smear back on when fitting the new one, I take it the nut on the spilt pin end is just so you can tap it to lock the tapper? This is the bit I have not done.
-
Evening all im in the process of renewing the stub axles on the GT6, has anyone found a good way to grip hold of them while doing up the main nut to the required 65 lbft ? Obviously avoiding gripping on the two bearing surfaces, but the other section is a taper and the vice with a bit of rag around it just wont hold it tight enough Cheers Dan
-
2003 wrote:Scrap it is, thanks for the consensus. I've just taken the RHS off, any thoughts? To me it looks okay, again new-looking trunnion. I think I may be able to re-use it and buy a new LHS vertical link. thanks for posting these up, I have been trying to decide if mine are ok and both look like this which is good