Ingieuk
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herald948 wrote:Just curious in the midst of all this mixup: Do you have the same wheel bearings side to side? All the stranger but yes! I put the micrometer on the shafts and they differed by about .15mm (I can't remember the exact measurement as it yesterday - terrible memory, 19.45mm rings a bell) I'll check again tomorrow. Quote:Ah, jolly good then. Carry on! Thank you for mentioning it though - always good to be aware!
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7801 wrote:Haynes Manual and the Autobooks manual i have both say 90-100lb/ft so 120nm is pretty close yeah (88lb/ft) Thanks, time to borrow a torque wrench - seem to manage everything else with a 3/8" (up to 80nm) one. Quote:The tapered hole in the early upright will be smaller, so you'll need to get it reamed out before a larger stub axle can be fitted. Good point, though the link in question is scrap anyway; Sorry , link no longer available And have got two new canleys trunnionless links.
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Yeah your right I'm glad I know about it now. Hopefully that's all it is then I can just pop a new stub axle in. Can anyone confirm the torque setting of 120nm for the stub axle nut? Need to get a bigger torque wrench if so!
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Thanks for helping alleviate some confusion. The strange thing is the callipers are identical. I didn't notice any difference in the mounting plates either. Will have to get the micrometer out tonight and have an investigate. I'll get the bearings measured too. I wonder it its a ground down taper? Would love to know why whoever it was did this. Find it a bit worrying to be honest with you!
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And the stub axles for comparison;
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Having elected to go for the Canley Classics conversion kit I have found each side of my GT6 (mk3) has different stub axle sizes! The difference appears to be in the taper that fits into the vertical link. The nearside has a larger diameter towards the end of the taper (and importantly fits the conversion vertical links as it should). The offside has a smaller diameter (19.4mm) towards the end of the taper and when offered up to the new vertical link the taper extends out through (see picture). Also this stub axle only fits the offside original vertical link. Could anyone shed some light on this? Have I got a GT6 stub axle on the nearside and a Spitfire/Herald stub axle on the offside? If so, who does that? It seems mad! Thanks in advance! Rich
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9716 wrote: Yes, I'd say that's quite likely. In fact, when the RHS failed the LHS probably needed replacing already but whoever did it was too much of a cheapskate. If that happened relatively recently you should be fine only replacing the knackered one. I think your probably right the more I think about it, however gone down the Canleys route now so can forget all about them! Still may be able to sell the good vertical link I guess. Quote:As has been mentioned when done I'd take it to get a 4 wheel alignment sorted. Shouldn't be too pricey and will make the car handle like a dream! Good luck with the rest of the rebuild. Was looking at a Gunsons Trackrite etc but maybe taking it somewhere would be best. Will have to look to free off the trackrod ends/tie rods before - they look pretty well stuck!
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michael_charlton wrote: Easy......just dont move the steering rack/wheel ::) Hmmm your going to have to explain that one - I've done a complete strip down of the front suspension so both sides are currently in bits. I was under the impression as long as I put all back as I found it I shouldn't have any alignment issues - or is that wishful thinking? I've been careful to put shims back where they were and haven't touched the track rod ends at all (or the steering for that matter). Slightly concerned now!
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Just to update this thread - my Canley Trunnionless kit arrived this week. I do think the carrier design has changed slightly Shaun, the flange seems thicker than on the car you mention. Just to got to get it fitted now!
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The fit and forget aspect is attractive. I've noticed some complaining about the fact the lower ball joint is only fixed by a single bolt and a ridge on the ball joint. I'm guessing it's not an issue? In all the reading I've not seemn anyone actually have a failure.
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Thanks for pointing this out, I will take a very good look! Again another reason to go trunnionless I guess. Depends on Canleys stock though, anyone had experience of how long they take to come into stock? I'm guessing they're made in batches. Didn't realise people were so passionate about trunnions!
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No problem, however I may not be the greatest judge given I've only just taken mine off for the first time! To me the rhs one seems good for the moment, however as stated that's no guarantee! In the back ofor my mind I think I should go trunnionless, would quite like to do something competitive (not sure what yet!) so maybe it would be worth it. Also it sounds as though damage can occur to bonnet etc. Currently the kits are out of stock at Canleys so it will be the normal vl for now.
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Ah okay, would you advise either completely replacing trunnions/going down canleys route then? I find it strange one appears so much worse than the other! Its as if the RHS has failed in the past and been replaced as new.
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Thanks, I think I will be able to re-use, I can see no pitting around the seal area. Both were full of grease rather than oil. I shall be using oil.
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Scrap it is, thanks for the consensus. I've just taken the RHS off, any thoughts? To me it looks okay, again new-looking trunnion. I think I may be able to re-use it and buy a new LHS vertical link.