Dan16v
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Everything posted by Dan16v
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nope, annual service, it has done less than 1000 miles this year as its been in bits
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well what a pain that was to get off, no room for a ratchet head between the chassis leg and the sump plug even if a socket would fit. Stilsons didn't seem to work as it was too rounded. I ended up filing it square again to fit the wrong end of a socket with a 3/8" square drive, allen key bit in the socket with a decent size spanner on it with a big bar, but even with a 2ft bar it took quite a bit of force to get it off! Nice new magnetic sump plug with a proper nut is on there now, hopefully it will be much easier next year.
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thanks Tim
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Does anyone know what connecting ball size the Rover struts are? most seem to be 10mm but the product discription on the ones I have purchased dont tell me. Thanks.
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Thanks Terry, I will see if any of the suppliers do one. Thanks, Dan
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fantastic, im sure the cable can be replaced easily enough with the one I have Cheers, Dan
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Thanks for the link These guys do an adjustable ram, so you can start at 700N and work your way down, the Rover 200 ones are something like 370N Do most people find the bonnet stays open by itself ok using the Rover items?
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Does anyone know where you can get an original T-peice style Mk1 GT6 choke cable? Someone has put one of the cheap twist and lock ones on which has broken and it would be nice to put an original style one on. Ive looked through the usual suppliers and not had any joy.
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Tim, I thought there were different types, some that lock more than others? Did you make your front brackets mount in the usual place on the mk3?
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That looks quite different to the other kits, the lower brackets are much further back getting a better position when fully extended. I don't think there is anywhere to mount it on the mk1 though, it's got ab lot less bracketing points
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Thanks, they look like they do a good range of brackets etc
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I have been looking around at some of the GT6 bonnet gas strut kits, all of them seem to be for a Mk3 and im trying to fit one to a Mk1 which they dont fit.....and im not keen to spend £121 that TSSC sell them for They look fairly easy to make using the Rover 200 rear gas struts and the top triangle plate that mounts onto the bonnet, but has anyone done one for a mk1 and has any pictures of how it’s been mounted to the chassis at the front as it’s quite different to a Mk3? Ideally it would be good to use any existing holes rather than drilling the chassis
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It was last serviced by a garage who might not have been into classics, its probably why the plug is so tight!
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Stilsons ordered, new magnetic sump hex plug ordered, just need to find a bit more height to get under it a bit more.......I do miss having a inspection pit in my garage, it made these jobs so much easier
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yes, clearance to it is a pain, you cant get a 3/8 to 1/2 converter on it to put the longer bar on, I will have a look out for some 1/2 inch drive 4 sided sockets, but it will be a tight fit
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thanks all, well i tried yet more heat and the spanner would hold on it ok but even with a bit of pipe over the spanner to get a bit more leverage, still no luck, even hitting the spanner with a decent weight mallet wouldn't shock the taper undone didn't do anything. The problem is also getting it high enough off the ground to get a good sized pair of stilsons on it, unfortunately I don't have a pit or a decent set of ramps so getting more leverage on it is trick - i don't suppose anyone local to me (im near Sandhurst in Berkshire) has a pit and a good sized pair of stilsons? Thanks for the tip on the magnetic sump plug with 3/4" (19mm) hex head, sounds much easier
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Since its been rounded before the 11mm seems to fit a little better, but in the 2nd position on the other 2 flats the spanner fits tightly. I did give it a go tightening it first before then trying to back it off, but not any luck
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Since its been rounded before the 11mm seems to fit a little better, but in the 2nd position on the other 2 flats the spanner fits tightly. I did give it a go tightening it first before then trying to back it off, but not any luck
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Afternoon all Just doing the annual service on the GT6, its the first time I have tried to remove the sump plug since owning the car and its stuck solid. I've read a fair few posts about how people have gotten them undone, a fair bit of heat on it though doesn't seem to make any difference, although its a bit limited how much leverage I can get on the 11mm spanner. Looking at the plug it doesn't seem to go in square to the face of the sump, its more noticeable when the spanner is on it than you can see in the picture below, but being tapered do these things still seal up if cross threaded? or in general are the sump plug holes not square to the raised face? Given it was serviced only 12 months ago, it should have been off recently so im surprised its that tight.
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cheers, here are a couple of pictures of what I'm after if you have anything like that
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thanks, will give them a try. None of the ones on Ebay have the right tops, they look like later carbs which have an extra round lump on the side of the casting and the writing on top is different.
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Yes, there is a cut out in the top of the carb body for this, all checked and its all seated correctly etc
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Yep, done all that, new needles and jet holder, a friends dad who used to tune triumphs for a living looked at it and said its strange, he centred the jets and balanced the carbs up as well. if you take the one that jams and put it onto the one that doesn't the jaming follows the top cap so the needles are all centre its something wrong with this top
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Evening all, I have finally traced the cause of my needle binding up on one of my CD150 carbs on the Mk1 GT6, the carb top/cover must be distorted as it still does it with new needles and jets and goes away when you swap them over between carbs, if you back one of the screws off half a turn it goes away. The question is, where can I get a replacement? its the early bottom mixture adjustment type (3092 from memory) and Ebay hasn't come up trumps yet and I can't see any new parts being available.