Antonnick

I sort of managed a pressure test and maybe the bottom hose connection to the rad was a bit damp as a result- could just as easily have been condensation though. However, I was able to tighten the hose clip somewhat so perhaps..... I will drive it around the next few days and check again.

Many thanks to you both for the Blitz replies - I had not expected to read anything so quickly. I intend to inspect the Waterpump and do Glangs' pressure test later on --when it stops raining.

My Herald 13/60 , awakened from its winter sleep is performing like a new car. You only have to turn the ignition key and it seems, without the starter motor springs into life. Was not always so and thanks to the help of this forum in the past it has had numerous renovations to the motor, reground crankshaft, head refurbished etc. I mention all this because I am worried about the water loss. We went on a good round trip yesterday to the (for the British) famous Edersee damn, a round trip of about 200km and this morning the rad needed topping up with about a half to 3/4 litre. This is the second time this year . I have checked all the obvious hose connections and they seem to be ok. When I removed the head a couple of years ago, cylinder no4 was shiny whereas the other 3 were carbonised. "steam cleaned" is what someone here commented at the time. I am worrired that , depite the smooth tickover and excellent performance of the engine at all speeds, that this my be occuring again. Is that possible when the engine is running so well? I would wellcome some ideas of what to look out for. It has an after market aluminium rad , by the way. Gruß / regards Antonia

yes nearly. 😊 Anyway the TüV man liked my solution with a heavy washer and using the 8mm bolt, I am now OK for the next two years.....

Allen socket ?? I had to look it up - Imbusskopf - yes that is an idea. I will give it a go

Yes that is correct - it is though very seldom that anyone uses the back seat. In any case, once the inspector is satisfied and certifies the roadworthiness for the next two years, I can always take it off again. But I agree totally - in the event of a serious crash , the seat coming loose would be the least of the worries. Actually , he did not like the bolt size at the front either. I had used M6 to replace the imperial size but he considers that to be too weak so will need to put in M8 and use a thick washer underneath. Problem is, the head of an M8 will not very likely not allow the seat to slide over it.

That would seem logical - I know that for example, a morris minor does not have any such clips holding the back end down. Never mind. The whole thing came to his intention because I had not bolted the frame down tightly enough. The inspector checked the internet for any info and I have had a look in Canleys as well - also for the Vitesse - which does not list anything. It would probably be "not available" anyway. He advised that I should drill and insert say a 6mm thread through the seat frame and secure with a winged nut. Ok, if it makes him happy.

I went for a te-test of my 13/60 today with the GermanTüV organisation and the man still does not like the way that the seat "chassis frame" if I can call it that is fixed to the floor. Although I have used the standard original bolt size for the front, he complains it is not strong enough - I must use minimum M8 with a more solid washer underneath. That is easily remedied. However....... ..he maintains that the folding seat should have some sort of mechanism at the rear end to stop it tipping foreward in the event of an accident. When I look in the workshop manual, I see that there is nothing shown for the Herald but indeed the Spitfire, although it has a differing "chassis frame" does have something to lock the seat. Does anyone know something about this?

Your comment to "the outer bearing still have some slop on unworn axle" So glad to read this! My Herald 13/60 was judged by the German TüV inspector to have some play and thus did not pass. I have tightened up the nut a notch in order to eliminate the play but after the retest tomorrow, will likely loosen it off again. This is easier than trying to prove that such play ( it is very slight) is normal.

Not as glad as I am daver clasper. 😃 I had stumbled on to your thread when I got this problem and was consoled that the figures at low revs were similar to mine. According to Moss though you should get 16V or more at idle which is clearly wrong. I was never really 100% sure that the Dynamo was ok until Glang gave me the tip of measureing resistance on the regulator and indeed in giving the contacts a good wipe with emery paper. Before I had only lightly wiped it. It seems you have to be more forceful than recommended in the manual. Now , when the rain stops it will be time to enjoy the car again!

Glang, you are brilliant! I reinstalled the control box and after brushing away any dust with an old clean toothbrush, the reading was still not zero but only 1,5 ohm. As good as. I then started the engine. Ignition light goes out - the cut out can be seen to function - the battery has over 13 V with the engine running. I call that a success - thanks to you.

Soooo, after running the fine emery paper through, the resistance has gone! Not totally - the meter records 6 ohm and buzzes, indicating a good connection Is this now possibly the solution and I should put it back in the car?

OK, we are getting there. thankyou for your perserverence. As before the resistance between F and D terminal tags is 65 ohm regardless of whether the voltage reg is open or closed. i have also measured the resistance directly across the top of the voltage control coil. That also records 65 ohm. This indicates to me that the contact is not clean. I have the whole control box out of the car in front of me. I will now try to clean between the points again and report back.

The "contact" you refer to I assume is the cut-out coil of the two? The 65ohm measurement I get is there whether the contact is open or closed, it makes no difference. Is that good or bad?

Forgive my confusion. Are you saying that the 65ohm that I measured is ok as it represents an in-built resistor which is there to reduce sparking?