Antonnick

yes nearly. 😊 Anyway the TüV man liked my solution with a heavy washer and using the 8mm bolt, I am now OK for the next two years.....

Allen socket ?? I had to look it up - Imbusskopf - yes that is an idea. I will give it a go

Yes that is correct - it is though very seldom that anyone uses the back seat. In any case, once the inspector is satisfied and certifies the roadworthiness for the next two years, I can always take it off again. But I agree totally - in the event of a serious crash , the seat coming loose would be the least of the worries. Actually , he did not like the bolt size at the front either. I had used M6 to replace the imperial size but he considers that to be too weak so will need to put in M8 and use a thick washer underneath. Problem is, the head of an M8 will not very likely not allow the seat to slide over it.

That would seem logical - I know that for example, a morris minor does not have any such clips holding the back end down. Never mind. The whole thing came to his intention because I had not bolted the frame down tightly enough. The inspector checked the internet for any info and I have had a look in Canleys as well - also for the Vitesse - which does not list anything. It would probably be "not available" anyway. He advised that I should drill and insert say a 6mm thread through the seat frame and secure with a winged nut. Ok, if it makes him happy.

I went for a te-test of my 13/60 today with the GermanTüV organisation and the man still does not like the way that the seat "chassis frame" if I can call it that is fixed to the floor. Although I have used the standard original bolt size for the front, he complains it is not strong enough - I must use minimum M8 with a more solid washer underneath. That is easily remedied. However....... ..he maintains that the folding seat should have some sort of mechanism at the rear end to stop it tipping foreward in the event of an accident. When I look in the workshop manual, I see that there is nothing shown for the Herald but indeed the Spitfire, although it has a differing "chassis frame" does have something to lock the seat. Does anyone know something about this?

Your comment to "the outer bearing still have some slop on unworn axle" So glad to read this! My Herald 13/60 was judged by the German TüV inspector to have some play and thus did not pass. I have tightened up the nut a notch in order to eliminate the play but after the retest tomorrow, will likely loosen it off again. This is easier than trying to prove that such play ( it is very slight) is normal.

Not as glad as I am daver clasper. 😃 I had stumbled on to your thread when I got this problem and was consoled that the figures at low revs were similar to mine. According to Moss though you should get 16V or more at idle which is clearly wrong. I was never really 100% sure that the Dynamo was ok until Glang gave me the tip of measureing resistance on the regulator and indeed in giving the contacts a good wipe with emery paper. Before I had only lightly wiped it. It seems you have to be more forceful than recommended in the manual. Now , when the rain stops it will be time to enjoy the car again!

Glang, you are brilliant! I reinstalled the control box and after brushing away any dust with an old clean toothbrush, the reading was still not zero but only 1,5 ohm. As good as. I then started the engine. Ignition light goes out - the cut out can be seen to function - the battery has over 13 V with the engine running. I call that a success - thanks to you.

Soooo, after running the fine emery paper through, the resistance has gone! Not totally - the meter records 6 ohm and buzzes, indicating a good connection Is this now possibly the solution and I should put it back in the car?

OK, we are getting there. thankyou for your perserverence. As before the resistance between F and D terminal tags is 65 ohm regardless of whether the voltage reg is open or closed. i have also measured the resistance directly across the top of the voltage control coil. That also records 65 ohm. This indicates to me that the contact is not clean. I have the whole control box out of the car in front of me. I will now try to clean between the points again and report back.

The "contact" you refer to I assume is the cut-out coil of the two? The 65ohm measurement I get is there whether the contact is open or closed, it makes no difference. Is that good or bad?

Forgive my confusion. Are you saying that the 65ohm that I measured is ok as it represents an in-built resistor which is there to reduce sparking?

Good morning Glang. I measured just now , with all wires disconnected to be sure and the multimeter measured 65 ohm resistance from the D to F terminal tags. If this is supposed to be zero Ohm, then perhaps this is the root cause problem? I notice inside the control box, normally out of sight, there is a sort of "bus bar" connecting the F and D terminals. Do you know of its function and perhaps that is the fault?

No I have the two coil RB 106 fitted. But I will measure this resistance and report back.

The plot thickens. This morning I did the F_D connection at the end of the wires , having removed them from the control box, ran the engine and got as before 18V +. So I am assuming the Geny is working. Reconnected the wires to teh control box, ran engine - ignition light stays on.# I did think I had a new after market control box to try out but in my chaos I cannot find it -perhaps I was dreaming. I do have an old one that I took off and so I have installed it to try out. At first , after the engine started, the ignition light flickered as the revs increased, it never completly extinguished but at least was not glowing red as the previous box did. I thought it might be worth cleaning the contacts, so disconnected the battery, cleaned up with emery paper, reconnected battery and started the engine. Back to square one - red light on all the time......... But I wonder, with the flickering, is that an indication of something?