Craigcass

From what I've seen and been suggested Burlen are the ones. Never heard of them previously! Another minor issue, my spit is a mk4, fitted with a 1500 engine (engine number begins FM) done by a previous owner. The carburettors are HS4's but they don't have a metal tag on them to specifically identify a model number/year. Any other clues as to how I can identify them further? as the Burlen websites has specific codes for years etc. Thanks, Craig

Having a quick look on the burlen website it appears everything is out of stock, are the kits not the same ones as shown on the rimmer bros website?

Hi all, With winter looming the spitfire will be in hibernation but thought I would treat it to a carburettor rebuild, something I can do in the warmth of my own home on the kitchen table, if the missus allows haha. Does anyone have any suggestions as where is best to get a set of good quality and at a good price. Non waxstat. Cheers for any suggestions. Craig

Thanks for the info, having found some time today I found the culprit to be my jets sticking open, I put some penetrating spray on the jet stems when fully open and on the linkages for good measure and everything seems to be running fine again. Thanks again Craig Cass

Hi all   I've started having trouble with the spitfire, everything has been ok until yesterday. When out driving I have to keep the choke out in order to stop it from cutting out when coming to junctions etc even though it's warmed up sufficiently as it won't idle properly (when pushing the choke back in it wants to stall/cut out) as if it is not getting enough fuel.    Today coming home from work after driving down the A19 (60mph) for 20 minutes (so should be warmed up) and then driving on 'normal' 30mph roads I still have to have the choke pulled out in order for it to keep running, and when driving it judders, it doesn't misfire, but feels like it's not getting fuel, I got home and now it won't start no matter what position the choke is in. Whenever I tried to push the choke back in (thinking perhaps too much fuel is causing this it immediately cuts out) as if it's not getting enough fuel.   I've checked the spark plugs, they were slightly sooty, probably from having to run with the choke pulled out in order to keep it running put not enough to create a bad spark. I checked the inline fuel filter and this looked clear, I've checked the float chamber for debris and all looked ok, I checked inside the carb where the needle sits and there's fuel visible in the jets. I haven't adjusted anything on the carbs as they've been fine.   The car will now not start, any ideas on what to check or possible reasons for being only able to run/idle with the choke pulled out even when the car is warmed up.   Thanks,   Craig

Apologies, the measurements i have are 0.073 inches or 1.86mm. I never zeroed the digital caliper previously.   Craig

Hi all, I'm just after some clarification, i'm inspecting the big end bearings and wish to know what is the acceptable range of 'thickness' I measured one bearing with a digital caliper and got a thickness of 0.064 inches or 1.63mm. Is this within range?     Craig Cass

ok I purchased an eezibleed device and that has done the trick! although I still have a few other issues... I started the car up today and I had to adjust the idling speed as it was sitting too low and wanted to stall, I set it to around 1000rpm and once warm it sits at 14/1500rpm so I adjusted it back down to 1000rpm, I seem to have to do this procedure every time I start the car up (from cold) and can't seem to find the 'sweet spot'. I took it for a spin around the block and I have a strange knocking sound come from the engine around 2500rpm, it also has moments of lacking power then all of a sudden the power appears. I'm wondering whether this is all fuel related and the carbs need setting up properly, but any advice would be appreciated.   Craig

Hi guys, I've just attempted to take out the spit for its first drive after the minor rebuild, alas, another issue. I started the car up and let it get all warmed up and it runs fine which I am happy with, but when I went to back it out of my garage the 'bite' on the clutch pedal was really low, like, lift the clutch half an inch and it wants to go. Is this easily adjustable? perhaps just via the pedal itself? after installing the new slave cylinder it was bled correctly and I am confident that their is no air in the system (certainly at the slave cylinder side of things) Before replacing the slave cylinder (before it broke) the clutch was perfectly fine so I just assumed replacing the slave and giving it a bleed would be fine.   Craig

Hi guys, Sorry for being inactive the last few weeks had a lot going on with Christmas, work, birthdays and holidays! Just an update, the engine (still) runs well and I've just replaced the slave cylinder and now I can engage gears! I'm back at work tomorrow but hopefully next week I'll take it out for a spin for the first time since I bought it! Hopefully no more issues will arise out of the blue and I can start enjoying it, weather permitting of course. Thanks again for the help guys, wouldn't of been able to do it without your guidance.   Craig Cass

Yeah the valves, valve guides and head skim were all done by a professional so these should be OK, perhaps it is a case of running it for a while things will bed in then as you say can go round to torque things up again. Oh dear that leak doesn't seem promising, but I do recall whilst layed under the car a few weeks ago seeing a slight weep on the gearbox, but no puddle on the floor.   Craig

Update! I've just finished installing the new head gasket, and, success!! compression on cylinders 1 and 4 now read 120, 2 and 3 are sitting lower both at 90. the spitfire now runs, albeit slightly lumpy, (idles at 500 revs) due to 2 and 3 cylinders I imagine so some further tinkering with valve clearances may sort that issue out unless someone has any other ideas? One hiccup I came across though was when I went to drive it there was nothing behind the clutch pedal, no feeling at all, when the vehicle is not running I can select gears but when it is running I can't select any gears what so ever, it seems my clutch reservoir has decided to empty itself somewhere, so hopefully a top up of the clutch reservoir and bleed will solve this issue, I hope nothing more serious is lurking behind this! would a more serious issue cause this symptom? the gearbox felt perfectly fine before the strip down. Thanks for all your suggestions and ideas, wouldn't of been able to do this without this forum 👍 Craig

It did change slightly, went from 30 to 50-60

And to answer previous suggestions of easy start, I tried that too and nothing, so a new head gasket within the next few days should be it. I'll post an update when I can.   Craig

Hi guys, I previously bought a head gasket set from rimmer bro, and the head gasket is indeed different from the one I have replaced, this could be the only thing that has changed since the rebuild, so I've bought a new head gasket, a payen one, which looks a lot more suitable for the job so hopefully this will be the end of my woes!   Craig