Spitfire2500

Managed to grab some photos of the N/S wing in the garage tonight.

Couple of pictures of the lower fixing bracket (doesn't look much like a proper curve to me :)):





Detail of the rear of the top slap panel:



A-post closure panel - now I know what they're called :)



Couple of pics of rear top of the wings:





The wing joins the A-post perfectly here. No adjustment required. Unfortunately I couldn't take any pictures of the wing laid on the car to show how well it fits because the car's the wrong way round in the garage ;D (so that I can work on the rear lamp panel). The N/S of the car is hard up against the far wall at the moment.

Is it the case that the only sources to date for full front wings have been OE/Stanpart and Earlparts? Has no-one else manufactured full front wings over the years?

I'll check when I get home this evening Lloyd. I'll take some pics.

They also have the complete bracket at the rear of the wings that fit to the A-post just in front of the door - if you know what I mean  :)

Soft red/bowrn primer. No hole and captive nut for bumper which is why we suspect they're not OE/Stanpart.

My recollection - which is often unreliable  :) - of the Spares Meeting is that it was specifically the repair sections produced by said manufacturer that people had issues with. That's a view I would tend to agree with. But so far the full panels I've had from them have been fine - but thus is presupposing that the wings I have are theirs. Provenance is unclear - got them Chic Doig about five years ago who had got them in turn from Jaguar dealership who were having a clear out a few years before that.

Absolutely no argument about the supply issues Ted, but I have what we believe to be a pair of these wings here - they will be going on our Mk 2 - and they are a very good fit indeed. Trial fits to date indicate that the N/S wing is going to go more-or-less straight on.

Cheers Tim.

As noted above Ted is sending me an early ARB engine crossmember which I should be able to modify but if anyone unearths a late type ARB engine crossmember that they no longer need please let me know.

Anyone in the UK with these fitted had any issues at MOT time?

I fitted a pair of Crystals (Wipac 6072) and Chic Doig reported that the MOT man was having problems measuring a beam pattern on his equipment. They did get it to register something on his tester eventually by randomly fitting different bulbs - but it all seemed a bit odd and I didn't have a lot of time to chat about it when I collected the car.

Appreciate the offer - but thanks to Ted Taylor an ARB crossmember will be with me next week.

It's the earlier type but it should easy enough to re-drill it for the correct offset.

Cheers,

Sam - You can put me down for one of the satin back ones.

Ultimitely I'd like to get my hands on one of the TT sloped ones as per Marcus's last pic but a satin black one as per Sam's pic will do for the time being  

Back in about 1989/1990 I had about seven or eight of these lying about in the garage, of which three or four were SAH ones - would you believe I gave them away when Triumphs and I parted company in 1992 (temporarily as it later turned out)  

Ted,

FWIW the settings I have noted for the Webers are:

Choke - 33
Aux Vent - 4.5
Emulsion Tube - F16
Main Jet - 125
Air Jet - 185
Idler Jet - 50F9
Pump - 40
Back Bleed - 0

But note that these are for the Sprint 90 camshaft we have fitted - which is a pretty peaky affair to be honest - comes on at 3.5k  ??) It is very nippy when it gets going  :)

For something a bit closer to a standard 2.5 I have the following noted as a starting point:

Choke - 28
Aux Vent - 4.5
Emulsion Tube - F16
Main Jet - 120
Air Jet - 175
Idler Jet - 50F9
Pump - 35
Back Bleed - 0

Cheers,

That's a very generous offer Ted - I'll just need a little while to think about it...  :P  ;D  ;D

OK - Wins have anti-roll bars in stock so are sending one out to me but I'm not having much luck tracking down an engine cross member.

So, if anyone has an ARB engine cross-member (TKC1940) as fitted to late cars (75-77) I will gladly relieve you of it for a few goodies of your choice  ;D

As per subject - on the lookout for an anti-roll bar and the correct engine cross member for a 1976 2000TC.

Cheers,

I would also be interested - one front and one rear.

Just what I was going to say  :)

Personally I can't see past Stag/S alloys on Saloons. Revs would be my next favourite.

Been using that in the Spit since 2003 and in the Saloon when it was on the road.

Personally I wouldn't use anything else now.

Been using that in the Spit since 2003 and in the Saloon when it was on the road.

Personally I wouldn't use anything else now.

I didn't know about these so thanks for pointing them out. I know my way around most of the mechanical stuff on my Triumphs but I'm still a relative novice when it comes to doing stuff with engines and I learned more in the half-hour or so I spent watching these videos than I did in the entire 1980s and early 90s with the stuff we had available to us back in the days before the interwebthingy  ??)  :B :B  ;D  ;D

The 3.63 diff in our Spit 2.5 (it's really a 2.7!) was built with a Quaife LSD eleven years ago now and it's been troublefree so far - and it gets a fair amount of abuse... ??) ;D

Completely agree. I really enjoy the message diaries -- from both the 10CR and the RBRR. Hopefully from next year on I'll be contributing to the diaries rather than reading them from home  ;D

The usual advice is to test with cellulose thinners and/or try rubbing it with a coin. If the primer comes off in either case then it's recommended to strip the panel back to bare metal. Otherwise key and prime as normal.

The hard black primer used on OE panels is good stuff and normal advice is that it can be left on.

However I recently had a couple of the OE panels that came in the hard black primer media blasted as part of a job lot and I'm glad I did cause there was corrosion starting under the primer in a few places. Maybe not that unexpected bearing in mind the age of OE panels and the conditions they may or may not have been stored in.

For peace of mind I'll be doing this with all the new panels for the Saloon.

Brilliant stuff. As Colin says the welding is top notch.

:) I think you managed to describe it better than I did Bill  :)

I'm struggling a wee bit to picture what you describe but it seems to me that you maybe didn't compress the spring enough?

From the bottom up you should have cup washer, bush, spring plate, bush, cup washer then the two nuts. When fitting these the spring needs to be compressed to the extent that they are essentially a loose fit and then you tighten the top nuts to compress the bushes (but be careful not to over tighten). Then release the spring from the compressor.

Yeah - I wouldn't be looking at the prop until I'd got new tyres on. Been there etc etc...