don cook1

"There is what appears to be a larger one below the distributor mount on the block that resists all efforts, but cannot see what purpose it serves"

The Scottish bloke will tell us. Where are you McMarcus

I was at Beaulieu on Saturday and was in the old bus shuttle, that was hot...about 70 deg!!

Maybe its the condenser, these break down when hot and cause your problem.

How have you got on Stuart?

You say 1mm (39.3 thou) gap but you have to measure the end float from a known datum point and that is with standard size thrust washers fitted. Order standard size and fit them, then measure the gap with a dial gauge or feelers. Once you have the 'new' total gap size, in thou, deduct the required clearance (is it between 4-8 thou and what is left is what you have to make up with oversize.

I'd order a set of standard size for the datum and at the same time take a punt and get another oversize set at whatever you think you'll need. You can then mix or match. I'd also have a good read up of how to measure the end float as I believe there is some inertia by the con-rods that may give a false reading, my engine builder used a large lever rather than just pushing/pulling by hand. Make sure the slotted (oil way) side  of the washers are against the moving part i.e. the crank.

How have you got on Stuart?

You say 1mm (39.3 thou) gap but you have to measure the end float from a known datum point and that is with standard size thrust washers fitted. Order standard size and fit them, then measure the gap with a dial gauge or feelers. Once you have the 'new' total gap size, in thou, deduct the required clearance (is it between 4-8 thou and what is left is what you have to make up with oversize.

I'd order a set of standard size for the datum and at the same time take a punt and get another oversize set at whatever you think you'll need. You can then mix or match. I'd also have a good read up of how to measure the end float as I believe there is some inertia by the con-rods that may give a false reading, my engine builder used a large lever rather than just pushing/pulling by hand. Make sure the slotted (oil way) side  of the washers are against the moving part i.e. the crank.

Oh to have cold in a GT6!

Not a failure as such, as we managed to get all the way round, but some of you may know that we lost the clutch at the start (Aachen). To my shame I have just got around to taking the Type 9 gearbox out. Well, it transpires that the fulcrum pin decided to part company with the bellhousing (Triumph). The spring on the clutch release arm/fork looked decidedly bent and twisted. So, off to blag a bellhousing from Colin (Scrapman) and scouring ebay for a release arm that wasn't worn...got the only one for £16! Checked the clutch driven plate and it seemed ok but on closer inspection it was showing signs of distress (well, it would I suppose after managing the Dolomites mostly in third gear and no clutch) so another butchers on ebay for a Sierra 23 spline 8.5" plate.

Took the MX5 seats out for a clean and to allow some replacement carpet sections and a proper go at extending the gearbox tunnel. With bare floor pans I took a few pics as you never know when you'll need evidence of rust free!

Target for back on the road is 2 April.

The seller is delivering it personally!

Yoko Blue Earth

https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/c.....eGy8sCFeIp0wod2xUM2g

Can't remember how mine worked but perhaps your original threaded bezel sunk inside the hole??

I bought a couple of roof bars for Le Mans Classic a few years ago, fits in the gutter. Did me fine. Sorry about the crap photo.

My Revotec fan controller/thermostatic switch crumbled to bits. Not cheap to replace but Revotec gave me trade discount on a replacement. Probably my fault as never kept up to date with anti-freeze - water ratio. I've removed it now and gone back to original after engine rebuild. All good now, well it was on the last 10CR.

Ha ha Laurence...apparently you can!

Wrap is very expensive (you'll need loads!) and mine started to fall apart so took it off. I have moved my fuel supply pipes to the rear of the engine and I think that helps keep the fuel cooler, electric fuel pump helps as well.

As Rob & Nick suggest. Mechanical means 'Bob Weights' or the shaft they're mounted on.

When you say "knocking" do you mean pinking? What is the timing set (degrees BTDC) at idle.

3:63 is a nice diff to have.

Do you have overdrive, assume that you have. If not you need a 3:27 for longer legs. I take it the Vitesse has the same arrangement as a GT6?

No 'tree-stuffing' incidents on that link Nick?

Float heights have to be checked/adjusted with the carbs upside down. measure 18mm from top of float (resting gently on the needle valve) to the flange, gasket removed. You can't do it with the carbs attached as you would have to hold up the floats to close the needle valve and, unless you have super-sensitive touch, you will get a distorted measurement.

I'd agree with everyone else about the needle valve and/or it's seating.

Here's a photo of my GT6, on the right is the brake and on the left you can just see the clutch, looks a similar spring arrangement to the brake.

Oh Graham...I'm just a sap for a good love story.

"...when my wife had the problem at high temps..."

Hi Graham, get a new wife if that's all the problem is.

I have a Hucco fitted to my GT6, fit and forget, no regulator required.

Carb needs to be upside-down to measure without any undue finger pressure.

I got mine from Bill at Rarebits a few years ago but this is on ebay. Huge number of OD column switches on ebay at the moment???

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triu.....e:g:nZcAAOSwYHxWKh74

A good machine shop won't let you down. I would, however, recommend getting the engine re-assembled properly. I stood and admired my old friend putting my GT6 engine back together and proof of the pudding was in how well it performed on the last 10CR (apart from the clutch...but that was probably down to me).