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Pawel Saladziak

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  1. Bumping up this old thread with some news as engine rebuild is closer to reach its end. Apart from gap burned between cylinder sleeves in pace where head gasket failed( as on pictures attached earlier) I found that oil sump need some restoration as well as alternator as it was generating no more than 5V So now, she has new rings, two new cylinder sleeves, valves and valve guides, and probably some other parts that I dont remember now And you can see work in progress on the attached photo. Now close to having the engine re-assembled I have a question. Do you think its a good idea to renew the carbs now or after doing first 1200 miles (or so).
  2. On the other hand, Haynes manual does not mention about difference between traumatic and manual gearbox model shaft versions. Does anyone now actual sizes of traumatic version driveshafts?
  3. Well, I am sure that this was already done, but as water got into the socket, it's rusted and stucked. WD40 does not help at all. Any other ideas?
  4. Thanks Barry, any ideas how to deal with the ones that stacked in the gearbox?
  5. What about these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CV-A.....m567613693f#viTabs_0 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-Axl.....CATION-/141689915526 they are for 1983 gen2 civic, however I am not sure if triomatic acclaim had different driveshafts than manual acclaim any ideas if these will work?
  6. Thanks Barry,  found these cheaper, and also for the bottom end, so I will go with this one. What do you think of federal mogul seals? bottom: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOND.....%26sd%3D282052236746 top: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOND.....%26sd%3D401129144177 The other two cylinders are in almost factory state said the polishing master from the shop so we ended up with replacing just the 3rd and 4th sleeve. Haven't seen it yet, but he somehow managed to build a pair that is in one piece or is a solid joined.
  7. Does anyone know a compatible driveshaft for my both triumphs? Triomatic and manual one. So far I found this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Q-Dr.....7:g:TQwAAOxyEoFSVZYO
  8. Ok, here is the little update. Two sleeves are replaced, block and head welded and polished, waiting for measurements to check if replacing the other two sleeves will improve anything. In the meantime, I am after a full seals/gasket set for the engine, will this one work: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132044255791 ???
  9. I just scored quite big print production   , so now I am sure, it will be a full engine rebuild. I will also probably use even better workshop for this job, as they can carry out full engine rebuild, not only the cylinder head, and I would like to leave the engine in one shop rather than moving parts from one workshop to another. She will also get new paint, and welding, hopefully this will be ready for 10 country rally
  10. I was told by the garage engineer that their part will include: original liners boring out, cylinder aluminium block welding (it may include aluminium tube extraction but he was not certain about that, and said just as a precaution to me being cost optimistic), aluminium head welding, cylinder liners production and fitting, cylinder block and cylinder head polishing to get this perfect plane, also new rings and maybe new cylinders. There  is still some uncertainty about the crankshaft so this may also require some work. All of it will be done by very good family run garage running under the same name for already four generations, but it will be up to them for making pictures etc. I will ask them for documenting purposes of course, so maybe they will agree. I'm leaning toward the full rebuild but we will see, cant be certain now. I still would like to repaint the car  and weld out the week points and cosmetics like arches. I had some other spendings planned already as I am also restoring VW golf mk2 for my dad. So costs are piling up as you can see. If you have some graphic design jobs to do, I will happily take it, as I run small design studio business in UK 😉
  11. Ok, I think I found solution. Cylinder liner replacement by boring them out and putting in new liners and new rings for cylinders, head and block polishing etc... Cos for all four liners: 350 quid, seems not so bad. But if cylinder 1 and 2 has almost factory compression, should I just live it like that or should I replace liners there too?
  12. Quite regular shape of the breach lead me to believe that the engine was already faulty before I bought the car. It was probably filled with some epoxy-ish metallic something that eventually burned after three transeuropean rides from UK to Poland and back, with average speeds of 70 mph and more. The failure was sudden, and this makes me think so. Just for the sake of my non technical curious mind - what do you think of welding through the breach with either titanium or nickel alloy electrode and filling aluminium cast breach with melted alloy of the electrode. Would that be strong enough? This would of course require working out the surface inside the cylinder liner but I could prepare quite fine ceramic mould using the liner as a forming tool for preparing the mould.
  13. I got some knowledge from f-book that block was cast on liners, do the engine is mostly dead. I found some specialist service in Poland that maybe could repair it but haven't contacted them yet, still hoping to get replacement engine.
  14. I will get some better pictures on Monday. I misunderstood what he wrote me though. He was referring to a double cylinder tube (in polish it is similar word for bushing and a single tube). In some engines cylinder tubes are replaceable, here they are connected in pairs so the question is: are these pairs replaceable? Anyone here with a spare engine?
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