Tim_343

Im currently trying to get my carbs rebuilt and I may be on the right path with a source of gaskets and spares I will keep you posted. I belive the honda cb750 used the exact same carb just jetted differently.

Warped disks cause what youve described its almost thr same as driving a car with abs under heavy braking where they forceably push back on the brakes.

Can be due to wear on the jets but if its low mileage that should not be the case. it's not recommended for someone who isnt familiar with them or come across them before but you could adjust the mixture screws but it would need balancing with the appropriate equipment that can be found on eBay and there hell to balance but it can be done.

Not sure if your after a pair for your 77 or 82 TR7  but here is some for the 77 one http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1279997&parttype=7556 £75.82inc postage for a pair. KYB Brand.

yellow and red is 12v in from the ignition easiest way to find earth is set the multi meter to ohms or the beep setting and find an earthing point and go through the wires till it shows 0.00 then to find out the rest remove the glove box and check the color of the speaker wires there and that's your left ones then the other two wires left are the right. and run a 12v permanent live feed from the back of the lighter.

considered the whole manifold thing hen i had mine done but the guy explained to me that to just make that bit with all the manufacturing of it )because you have to get each pipe exactly the same length or one becomes more dominant than another and so on losing back pressure in the cylinders its quite complex for what it looks like on the surface ) it would cost as much as the rest of the system if not more so what they did with mine was just cut off the top of the mild steel one where it bolts onto the manifold and welded it to the stainless one and hey presto lol also its the silencers that restrict the gas leave the diameter standard get a power flow stainless system as it allows increased gas flow and not to much louder mines got one and it goes like shite off a shovel lol hope that helps.

thanks for your help guys thank fully it was due to play in the old anti roll bar bushes as i replaces the 2 bottom arms and the old bushes were loose in the mounting causing all sorts of noises which are commonly associated with drive shafts being knackard lol.

Hoping someone can tell me if these look correct i know there civic ones. ive got a horrid feeling im in need of some drive shafts if new anti roll bar bushes and cleaning the front brakes don't solve my problem thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-TORQUE-ROD-INSULATOR-A-ACCORD-CIVIC-PRELUDE-/270666996672 as ive never seen one in the flesh outside the engine bay does the one on eBay look right? and if so then the one below should be suitable and in stock. http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~insulator~torque~rod~50834-SA0-010.html

Just wondering if anyone had a diagram or idea of where every earthing point is on the chassis as the BL workshop manual does not contain a mention on there location thanks. Tim.

whats the make and part number of the plug your using?

Ive took my trim off to treat the rust and am yet to re fit it fully but the best way i found when i done a test refit was hook the bottom of the strip under the lip on the boot then push upwards over each of the clips seemed to push them in securely (i assume by the fact when i let go it stayed) lol hope this helps

has the car been used on lots of short journeys ? if so the cap is the coldest place on the engine and if it doent get warm (as it will take the longest to get warm) collects deposits the mimic that of a gone gasket have no idea why but just doe lots off good runs warming ever orofise of the engine and an oil change at the original service intervals or every year if its not used much and you will be fine :)