Talkwrench

Canley's or Rimmers had shipping costs listed at the checkout , have to be careful as if I add the studs it could go up to the next bracket in weight and get expensive to send, maybe I should look local for the studs or make them up . Anyone know the size - threads for them? I have found shipping slightly better from the UK than from the USA where I get most of my parts from for my Fords etc.

Guys where would be the best place to find a 3/4" lowering block one that comes with the longer studs.. Also will send to Australia? Cheers.

One is hoping Nick!

Some of you know I asked the question of fitting larger wheel studs after loosing three of mine on one of the rear wheels at over 65 MPH.. I did a few photos along the way so hopefully they might help someone else. This article is a great start  http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/upgrade_spitfire_wheel_studs.html Here is my original "asking" http://www.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1408964424/ For me the front was ok except those stupid dust covers have no lip on them for removal. Other than that straight forward remove the wheel , take of calliper , undo hub nut and remove. Then separate the disc from the hub, those 1/2" nuts are done up tight! Bash out the old studs and then insert the new freelander ones, I have a press so it was easy. Then reassemble everything. The rear.. The pics really tell the story. I did it all from the front as with most of us we are getting older and don't have a hoist!. Remove wheel, remove brake assembly, undo just the rear two 1/2" nuts after bending the tabs out of the way , They will be tight too! If you undo the two others the whole hub wants to come away and you cant move the backing plate anyway. Insert punch after smacking out the old studs mark and then drill through the stud hole using it as a guide as big as you can go. Because of the angle I found coming in from the side with a die grinder about the only way to get the hole that size. Do it only just enough to get the stud through, as you need to fit a rubber bung afterwards. Using an extension through the hole you've just made will hold the hub while you do up the studs one by one using a stack of washers and a sleeve nut do them up and crank them in, you will feel them stop. Last one you will need to put a bar in-between the studs to hold it.  Now put the bung in , then do up the 1/2" nuts tight and bend the tabs back. Reassemble the brakes, use some synthetic grease where needed, common sense here. The only thing I had to do was reverse the top spring to behind the shoes as it would foul on the end of the studs as they are just slightly larger. Wheel on .. Now you can do up to 65 lbs , go for a drive and then later come out and do them up again to seat properly.. check the first couple of drives... Done!

Look at the size difference in the studs! Just doing the front at the mo'.   what is up with the dust cover for the hub nut, what bright spark came up with the idea of not putting a lip on it so you can get it off, Bashing, crashing, punching it around I finally got it removed I think I wasted half the time just trying to get that simple part off... Pfft! unbelievable.. Anyway one wheel is done phew...

Kind of why I was thinking of getting a bigger tyre in there and saving all the expense and hassle ..

All helps guys.. I have all the stuff I need now so will get into it soon and report back.

I believe its a vitesse diff in there , I think the ratio by my workings out is roughly 3.7, did they have something like that? IS the diff hard to change?

Guys whats the biggest tyre you can stuff under a Herald without modifying the guards? Ive got 175x70x13's on 6" mags however I would really like to get the tallest rear tyres I can get on those 13" rims .. My gearing is terrible with the bigger motor its not even worth me using 1st gear , revs up far too quick..

Ok nice and simple.. Now could I trouble someone that's put a hole in the backing plate to take a picture of where it was done... Im looking and I don't quite get where the hole should be drilled there a ridge in line where the studs are ?

Managed to pick up the studs locally Andy from rovacraft should get them in the mail in afew days $3.50 each. The sleeve nuts $60 from the auto store. I'm sure the mag sits ok Alec but I will double check when refitting So how do I press the studs in the rear hub?

Maybe you can pull the backing plate away? Might use a stepper drill and drill the hole if required.. Found a place online in the UK, some 4x4 shop that sells the studs for $13.75 AUD for 5 so I sent an email to see what price they could do 16 for. I think I have found the right sleeve nuts here in Oz for $45 inc the washers plus shipping.. SO getting somewhere.. Attached is the result of my flogging the red devil.. think it was the sideways around the roundabout that did the damage  ; o P

Ok well maybe I'll go down that path. SO you just knock them out [one is loose already] when you put them in from the back is it then just left up to doing up the wheel nuts to press them in. Thought it would have taken more than that..? Front you just remove the disc and pull apart , no probs there , I have a press for that side of it? Yes I will have to double check the sleeve nuts available, nothing worse than doing all that and finding nothing will fit ..pft! Is there any particular pitch on those M12's  [freelander]?

Guys how hard is it to pull the rear hubs? Seems like there is two 1/4" nf holes do you just use a standard puller? Are they on a taper and key like an early Ford?  How much torque is it to do them up? I want to replace the wheel studs for larger ones as I lost 3 wheels studs at over 65 mph and it was a bit scary.. Can someone suggest where I might buy the studs? Also I need to use those stupid sleeve nuts ( for mags) to go with.. Cheers.

Thank you gents ! I will start looking..