Adrian Girling

Thanks. I'm hoping not to break the tap in the hole. I have to go out to M10 and going for 1.0 thead on the theory that it's a deep hole so it can be a shallower cut which should need less torque to cut. I believe the pilot drill needs to be 9.1mm and it doesn't need lubrication as cast iron has carbon in it. But any further advice would be welcome! I believe there is a type of Loctite which virtually does away with the need for a thread...

I wondered about that! It would explain a lot. I'm pretty sure I can manage with a shorter belt, but it does suggest that the required belt length may vary with the pulley sizes. So when I've determined the correct belt length I'll report the pulley diameters too. I'd probably have connected up the same as you if I had a control box but since the alternator self regulates I'll be leaving it out altogether.

Okay, so I've done some measurements and checked the fan belts. The fan belt supplied with the kit has a part number ending in 1060 but it's actually marked AVX10 1063. I'm not going to quibble over 3mm. With the supplied bracket bolted to the alternator at the end of the slot to give maximum tension and tensioning the belt by moving the alternator away from the engine the hole in the block is about 8 to 10mm away from the hole in the bracket - i.e. I need a longer bracket or a shorter fan belt. The fan belt used with the dynamo I took off is 1025 which is impossible to get onto the three pulleys even when the alternator is touching the block. So I've ordered a 1050 belt for the princely sum of £5.99 including delivery. Worst case, I'll have to get a 1040 one. On reflection, I really should have worked this out in the first place. Many thanks for all the advice and apologies to glang who actually suggested this 21 hours ago. Now to drill and tap the hole in the block which has no thread in it...

Thanks. Even at my great age I'm learning so much!

Thanks Glang and Rob, I'll get back to my shed this afternoon to do some measuring, and check the part number of the belt supplied, which is slightly longer than the belt I took off. Annoyingly, the 121215 bracket looks as if it might work but Rimmer Bros insisted they don't have a longer bracket, although it doesn't have the S bend in it, presumably necessary to pull the alternator forward to bring the three pulleys into the same plane. I will measure the distance from the hole in the engine block to the hole in the alternator when the alternator is pulled so that the fan belt is about right. With a slit about 60mm long it'd be nice to find a length where the alternator bolt is roughly in the middle of the slit. I do wonder why it's such a complicated shape on the side with the 28mm dia hole in it? I'll be checking if a simple straight bracket with hole and slit will fit - the hole for the block bolt of the supplied bracket is about 30mm away from the line of the slit. To get the three pulleys in the same plane it may be necessary to put the S bend in it to give it the 10mm offset of the bracket provided, or maybe just a bolt/washer(s) spacer(s).

Thanks Rob. I'm seeing that your Vitesse bracket is right up against the end leaving no more room for tightening the belt. And the original Herald dynamo one looks as if it would be long enough - I'd use that if I had it, but it was missing and the dynamo was tight enough without it, rusted in place! I doubt Rimmer Bros will be any help - you only have to look at Trustpilot and other online reviews to realise how hopeless, even downright rude they are to customers. In the end, a cheap lesson to learn - I will buy a universal one online as there are several straight brackets for this purpose of different lengths. I'll check out Paddocks for parts in future, won't be going back to RB. Maybe there is a forum section for supplier experiences - if not, I'd like to recommend one.

Well, I finally got around to installing (or trying to install) the alternator kit, but the adjustment bracket Rimmer Bros sent me (to set the tension in the fan belt) is not correct. See the photo of the bracket they sent, and a photo of the diagram in the installation instructions which clearly shows a longer bracket which extends further to the right to allow the alternator to be moved away from the engine. Rimmer Bros have not replied to emails but I finally got to access their web chat where they insisted I had the right part for the Triumph Herald. But the person with whom I was chatting suggested I could use a longer fan belt, confirming he didn't understand the problem. He said they don't stock a longer bracket. Has anyone successfully installed their alternator kit in a Herald? If so, any chance you could send a photo of the bracket on your car? I doubt they actually make this part, so I'm hoping to find a picture of a longer bracket to show them

Rob, you are a fountain of knowledge, most grateful 👍

Oops, too late. Bulkead is off, on it's side. Lifted the back end high enough with a engine hoist to inspect under, now dropped back on chassis. I've lifted a MX5 Unibody onto a wooden frame on casters this way - 38 x 63 timber studding is so versatile. Thanks for the tips

Thanks Rob, yes it's as you describe. I'd use the existing wiring loom if it existed, but since it's missing I'm starting from scratch, probably adding a fuse box etc. I think you are confirming that I really can just connect the two big connectors to the positive side of the battery and the other terminal also via the warning lamp (and presumably the ignition switch) also to the positive side of the battery like the attached picture? Presumably this means that the alternator self regulates to around 14.2 Volts maximum?

Great idea! Slightly nervous about it hanging above me whilst working on the chassis! A tad domoclesian I'd say. Mine's a rag top so it comes off in two bits. And thanks for the strengthening advice 🙂

Hi, I've sent you a private message. I've now been recommmended to hang on the the rear section and the bulkhead for a while as it's been suggested I could cut them about (make them narrower) and weld on side panels (as my project car has no doors) to be stronger than a plywood frame. Not sure if this will work, so they may be available later

I've just received a Herald Alternator Kit from Rimmer Bros and it looks good. I tried the online chat to ask if I can simply connect the output to the battery without going via the Control Box as I don't have one, but they had no more information. The instructions which came with the kit explain "it is necessary to link the "+" terminal and the "D" terminal as in the diagram. Also disconnect the field "F" terminal and the warning light wire "wl" and link them together, but not through the regulator box" In the diagram the control box terminals are marked: + + F wl D E - I'm thinking the left hand terminal should be "-" or ground? Is the "regulator box" different from the "control box"? My understanding of the function of the control box is to disconnect the dynamo from the battery when the engine is turning too slowly when the dynamo output is below a certain voltage (or the battery sends current through the dynamo) and disconnects it again when the dynamo output voltage is too high. But I understand an alternator self regulates it's voltage with the current in the field coil. Sorry for the wordy question (in bold), but I don't want to get this wrong. I can probably work it out from a schematic of the control box if anyone has on? Grateful for any help! Adrian

A 1952 Triumph Renown. Bought in 1970 for £85. Wrote it off on the A355 - spun in the wet on a corner and flew into a lamp post backwards - snapped the back of the front bench seat and we ended up in the back seat. Sold the parts for around £250 through Exchange and Mart so bought another MOT failed car for £19 to satisfy demand for parts from around 20 customers. I remember the days when you could put four gallons of petrol in a car for £1.00

Quick update, I bought the Herald on Ebay and have taken off the doors, bonnet and front bulkhead. I've lifted the whole of the rear end body and dropped it again as I've nowhere to put it! The chassis seems to be in surrisingly good condition - that was my biggest risk. Does anyone need these complete body panels? They are not perfect, but not bad either. Where necessary some good welding has been done already and I can take photos if anyone is interested.

Noticed this, advertised 9 days ago so maybe already sold, but it looks good value to me in case anyone is interested: https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-cars/triumph-herald-13-60-45k/1430990148

OMG, thanks for correcting my maths - can I do an embarrassed emoji in this forum? Yes, the propshaft needs to rotate more often to achieve the same road speed.... and I'm liking the logic of leaving it as it is 😀

Nice idea, but I'm not so keen on the prices! I wonder if someone can make steel wheels narrower - I've seen people who can make them wider... I think I'd prefer fairly basic looking steel wheels painted the same colour as the car

Thanks. 4.11 to 3.27 is a big difference. I've read that the herald classis tyre OD is 582mm and if I want to go to the full 680mm for my replica then 3.52 would be the exact number. In this case, 3.69 would be within 5%

I'm going to have to google that. It did occur to me that the rear spring could be replaced with a frame to which one could attach upper wishbones at the correct angle and of the correct length. I doubt anyone has done this (except perhaps for racing), but with my replica there will be lots of room behind the seats

Softer spring, remove leaves, genius! I'm off to google to search....

Many thanks for the info and tips John. I had thought of looking for narrow 16" wheels and using crossply tires might be a good idea. With the lower weight at the back the ride height would tend to be higher so I certainly need to install a diff to spring spacer anyway. But I see your point, the bigger diameter will create a bigger "jacking" moment for the same cornering force. I think classic car tires are available but expensive, and I've get to find a 16" wheel narrower than 6.5J. I'm sure I read somewhere about an anti jacking solution using a rod connecting the the LH and RH lower rear wishbones? And has anyone lowered the inside pivot point of those wishbones? Apologies, so many questions...

Hi John, just a bit nervous of chopping the chassis about, once done, hard to go back, but your input encourages me. Your picture is a good one, you can see how far forward the front wheels are, with the nose sloping down only just in front of the axle. I'm picking up my herald next Wednesday, so will be able to do some serious planning, and Steve P who lives just round the corner from me is happy to show me his Herald which is great. So far, only a couple of pictures of my bodyshell, actually sitting on a "locost" chassis but I favour the herald where the only serious work I need to do is lengthen the wheelbase. The good pictures are what a real one looks like Strictly, I should have 16" wheels and overall tyre diameter of 680mm which might be a big ask for the engine/drivetrain. Reminds me to ask, were there different ratio diffs? I expect I will need a spacer to lift the centre of the rear transverse spring as the weight on it will be significantly less, so changing the diff at the same time would make sense...

Thanks Pete. I'm enjoying the first rush of excitement, before the truth of the task ahead of me sinks in. Probably a ride on mower would have been a more practical investtment...

Just to say, I went to see this Herald and it was better than I had expected - the owner is a professional welder and had done some really neat chassis and body restoration. I'm now the proud owner of ARK 880H - "'Ark the Herald"