Banksy82

Good to know! 😄I would be interested to know what you were asking for them? They seem to be listed for silly money sometimes!

Without doubt! When looking around at different options it seems every possible combination has been shoehorned together. My concern with the 1500 was simply the carbs - twin HS4s can get a little expensive (considering I already have a perfectly serviceable (forshadowing??) set of HS2s that I think may be a little restrictive on the 1500). I'm an idiot! Of course the older ancillaries will fit, likewise with the manifolds. It is my understanding that the 1500 used different flywheel hardware and I don't fancy drilling out my flywheel - but I could be very easily wrong on this! Regardless there seem to be plenty of options about I just need to work out which would suit me best... I understand the 1300 are happier to rev higher and I have been known to explore the higher numbers on the rev counter occasionally.

See below… only two lobes on the cam are pitted - some minor marking on the edges of two others - and 3 tappets show concerning marks…

I have done a little cursory research and it looks like the MKIII or MKIV would be a better fit as they share the same inlet and exhaust manifold, HS2 Carbs, Clutch and tacho drive (from the delco dizzy) all of which I can switch over from mine... With that in mind and given I wouldn't mind a small increase in power which if rebuilding I imagine wouldn't add too much to the cost I believe the MKIII block is preferred for this? Much to think about....

I hadn't mentioned it yet, I haven't mentioned the pitting on pistons 2 & 3 yet either!😁 still reeling from the state of the cylinders. I should be able to get out to the workshop tonight or tomorrow for photos. Honestly now thinking it might be best to obtain a second block for rebuild and take my time - I can then enjoy the remaining life of this engine in the car while I wait!

Yep, removed cam to get a look at some sticky / pitted followers that wouldn’t come out from above. I was planning on replacing pitted tappets but looking at the state of the rest of the engine I think it will get new thrust washers and bearings and everything else will just get a clean to remove deposits so they can move freely and be put back for another day. At least the clutch will be easy to replace now! A fair point! Thanks.

Thanks - I'll look into that! What precautions would you take to 'run in' I will reassemble with some assembly lube on the big end main and cam bearings along with cam lobes and tappet faces, Lightly oil bores with engine oil and before attempting a start I'm tempted to run the oil pump with a drill to get some pressure and flow up to the rockers. Always a good chance that the clock has gone 'round. In fairness to the chap I bought the car off he didn't put many miles on it in his ownership, less than a thousand per year looking at the paperwork (9 years I think) and just did basic maintenance. The previous chap had done some more detailed (bodge) work... The joys of multi owner vehicles! 😄

Carbon ring extends approx 1/4" into the bore (to the first compression ring I imagine). Having cleaned this off there is still a ridge that can be caught with a fingernail, larger on the cam side and the rear. Bore at this unmarked point is 2.902 and below the ridge 2.905 (Take these as very approx, probably +/- 0.002, I don't have an internal mic small enough or a snap gauge big enough so we are talking internal spring callipers and an external mic!) Mr Haynes reckons over 0.006 wear is too much, I am pretty close to that but probably under so I think I will leave well alone and it will have to do for now! Many thanks for the input.

I’m leaning towards this… quietly button it back up and pretend I haven’t seen anything! At least I know what needs doing now and I can budget for a rebuild. Hmmm. That’s an interesting thought I hadn’t considered… Thanks for the input!

Haven’t really driven enough to know I’m afraid… I agree with you and I know this is the ‘correct’ option but not something I can really justify at the moment… Is it possible to remove pistons, clean / hone the bores and refit the current pistons / rings given compression wasn’t awful before??

Head is off and I have managed to remove a reasonable amount of rubbish from the coolant passages but I have come across something else… Cylinders 2&3 show staining / wear (see image below) and none of the bores show any signs of cross hatching. 1&4 have similar vertical wear marks - all cylinders feel smooth to the touch. I did a compression check while the engine was in the car and got 170 160 165 170 (which I thought was reasonable) and it is the centre two cylinders that show this particular issue. There is also a lip on the thrust side at the top of the piston travel. Question is can I simply hone the bores and fit new rings or am I in bigger trouble?😳 Haynes mention measuring wear with a piston without rings and a feeler gauge - 10thou is too much apparently. With the workshop manual giving a range of 9 thou for piston dia over the years I find myself questioning Mr Haynes (not for the first time!) Thanks Karl

Radiator seems pretty straight so I am thinking blockage of some kind. Wanting to take a look at the valves and tappets anyway; If I take the head off is there access to mechanically clean and add a Citric acid solution to the coolant passages in the block and the head to try and clear out any possible scale / rust or is this an awful idea 🙂 Thanks for putting up with the stupid questions! I do appreciate it! Karl

Yes It all adds up 🙂 - I am just concerned as to why the cooling needed to be improved 🤔

75k displayed on the clock. I have read in a few places that the tappets won't make it past the head gasket to come out of the top? I have just thought though if the camshaft comes out they should come out from below?

Narrow Rad. It is a '73 MKIV. Worst engine of the lot 😁. Thing is with the engine already out of the car I figured this is a good time. I also had slightly spread compression and thought maybe I could lap the valves while I was at it? Additionally I had a couple of push rods not spinning so I presume damaged tappets - (I believe the head has to come off to get to these?) Don't want to get into anything pointless and expensive (I understand removing pistons requires new rings) but for the cost of a head gasket I thought this might be worthwhile?

Just had the thermostat housing off to find a previous owner has deliberately torn the guts out of the ‘stat. When I first drove the car the temp gauge was very low so I tested and replaced the sender. Temp would then get to 1/2 if idling for a while but not much more than a quarter when driving… now I know why. I presume this was done to combat a overheating issue so I am now tempted to have the head off to inspect the coolant passages. Heater in the car was also poor but I put this down to a clogged valve which I have experienced before. Is this a terrible idea? Thanks. Karl.

Thanks, I think I will go with the standard. I’ll give paddocks a ring to check what the brand is that they are carrying at the moment and do some digging as I have heard that some of them have been known to delaminate!

This sounds like the sort of properties a possibly poorly ground crank and a 50 year old block might need...

Does anybody have any info or preference on the standard vs trimetal bearing options from Paddocks? Both big end and main. Any input appreciated! Karl

Hopefully this will turn out to be true. i can't see anything else that would cause the noises. Looking at the cam from below there is a little pitting on a couple of the lobes but nothing that would suggest the noise I am hearing. I will have the followers out to check as some weren't spinning when running but I believe there to be a quality issue with some of the aftermarket replacements too! All a bit of a minefield, very grateful for the input on here!

You are absolutely correct. I just wanted to know which one to cross out! 😁 have done some maths...! One of my standards (still fitted) mics up @ .094 (incidentally i have seen this value elsewhere although i can't find it again for the life of me) If this is correct then two .015s only give me 0.001 end float, two .010s .011 and a mix of .015 and .010 will give me .006 Only thing to do is to buy both sets and try!

Thank you - I am going to owe a few people a beer when this is over!

Does anybody have a definitive value on the correct end float tolerance? Workshop Manual states 0.006 to 0.014 in the 'check and adjust section' (12.21.26) but then in the data on the very next page state 0.004 to 0.008 (12.21.33 - Sheet2) Obviously 0.006 to 0.008 fits in both of these but I just find it odd - am I misreading something?

Good point - I will try the least abrasive things first!

Very faint on 1, as you see on 3. Not visible (in my workshop lighting) on 2 or 4. The noise I was sure was valve train - definitely where the sound was at idle. Having had a look around the clutch release bearing carrier was not attached to the bell housing at all - no pin, no bolt, nothing. I am now wondering if my noise at idle is usual valve train noise and it was the clutch bearing carrier vibrating at speed....