Banksy82

Thank you all. @standardthreadWhat you say makes a good deal of sense. Having watched a video of someone switch out the washers with the engine on a stand at waist height and in good lighting I'm not sure I want to roll around underneath anyway. With the irritating tapping/knocking still unsolved I think a poke around would be beneficial. With regards your previous advice no apology required, my kit and experience is not automotive related really. As it was I ended up gauging the float off the cover anyway - it was clearly over spec as I could see it move and I couldn't easily get any combination of my indicator stands into position with the radiator in place!

Bad news... crankshaft end float is in the order of 50thou! I am beginning to think the noise could be bottom end after all - it is just more high pitched than any knocking I have heard before! With the clutch needing work also think it is probably engine and gearbox out time? What do you all think? Cheers

I should be able to get a dial gauge on the pulley. and have an assistant depress the clutch. I believe the tolerance is 6 - 14 thou so assuming the crankshaft has centralised if I am reading 3-7 thou play I should be okay?

Thank you for all of the input. Of course I can check the end float without opening up - I don't know why I was thinking otherwise - I'm an idiot!

Thanks all. I think I will monitor the noise and wait until I drop the pan to fix (or at least improve) the leak and have a look at the general state of things down there while I am at it. I believe the crank end float is worth checking - is there anything else worth looking at while I am in there?

@standardthreadNo, not sure the oil is definitely from the sump gasket but the block is 'dry' above this line and it seems that someone in the past has attempted to silicone / rtv the sump to excess. I do need a new release bearing and was in two minds as to pulling the box from the inside or just pulling the engine and box together out of the front. I have compression values of 170, 160, 165, 170 (Engine warm but no oil down plugs), there is no knocking that I can hear and decided that the motor was basically sound. What would be the usual overhaul parts / time for these motors? Would you change all bearings as a matter of course or inspect and reassemble with original parts if okay? I took my previous spitfire off the road for a bodywork resto and it took years. I would like to enjoy this one on the road and I don't particularly want to sink an enormous amount of cash into this but a winter project could be entertaining. Thanks

@PeteStuppsThanks for the input! That is worth knowing - I have quite the oil ring around the sump gasket so dropping this is on the list anyway. I'm doubtful of my suspicions myself and a second opinion / comparison would be really useful. I'm in Denbighshire, North Wales and yet to find any local Triumph owners - although I did spot a Stag today at Tesco! If anyone knows of a friendly ear nearby I would be grateful.

@standardthreadThanks - tried removing the alternator from the system and no change. I was more suggesting that if I could hear bearing noise from the alternator with the screwdriver method and the timing cover is quiet then I can rule the timing chain and tensioner out? I really don't want to have to undo the crank nut if I can help it! With the valve train sounding normal at idle and clattering at speed I am wondering if the two noises are actually the same? I might invest in a stethoscope to try and track this down.

@standardthreadI thought about this too. I have just been out and had a listen with a long screwdriver against the cover - all seems quiet. Same technique shows a definite rumble from the alternator bearings that is inaudible without so I think the technique is sound. I guess there is no way of knowing without pulling the crank pulley and cover? The more I listen to it at idle the more normal it sounds, obviously it increases in volume with revs and I just can't think that I should be able to hear it at speed... I can try and attach some audio but things never seem to come across that well in recordings... Thanks for all of the ideas.

@Dannyb @RobPearce Tried the dowel against the adjusters trick. I let it ride on the adjustment screw and applied a small downwards pressure and couldn't discern any difference in the noise from any of the 8 rockers. Is there any way short of removing the camshaft and tappets to determine if they are the source of the issue? Next question is driving the car with suspected worn tappets going to end in catastrophe?? Thanks Again...

Thanks Rob, I will try this this afternoon. I take it I float the dowel onto the push rod side of the rocker and not on the valve end? I did dress out all of the wear on the rocker tips to allow me to set the clearances. I was careful but I could easily have changed the profile slightly so cannot guarantee that the clearances are perfect.

Hello all - looking for some guidance/wisdom. I have searched as best I can and I hope you can help from here? I have recently bought a 1973 MKIV (late) Spitfire and I am going through the car just trying to tune and tidy up some outstanding issues. I have what I believe to be excessive valve train noise. It is very 'tappety' to the point that the noise is clearly audible (almost loud) at 60 with the roof up. I expected some valve train noise but I owned a similar but early MKIV 20 years ago and I don't remember it being as bad so I am leaning towards it not being 'normal' I have done the usual tune - Plugs - points gap - timing and backyard carb tune. I also checked the cam timing which is on the rock at about 1.5degrees after TDC (I believe this is within tolerance?) I have checked valve clearances and found that the rocker faces and rocker shaft to be worn (the rockers only a little but the shaft quite considerably.) I replaced the shaft and dressed the rocker arms with a stone to remove the damage so that I could set the valve clearances correctly and reassembled - no change to the noise. With the noise audible at idle I have been around the engine bay with a long screwdriver and a left ear and I cannot track it down. To the naked ear it sounds like it is coming from the rocker cover but I know this can be deceiving. Changes as you would expect with engine speed (never goes away) and to me sounds like the frequency of valve train. Current suspicions are: 1) Cam / cam followers 2) I'm convinced it is nowhere near the front but possibly chain tensioner? 3) Something else entirely! For further info I also definitely have throw-out bearing noise - whines like mad in neutral with the clutch out. but clutch position has no affect on tapping noise and seems nowhere near noise location. Clutch currently operates just fine so it is further down my list! Any ideas gratefully received.