abandonearth

One more for good measure. PXL_20240501_083629666.mp4

This video doesn't really capture the sound, but... PXL_20240430_120552355.mp4

Morning folks, Since I've had it (about 12 months) my Spitfire (1973) has made a creak/clunk occasionally under braking. Its been one of those 'I'll have a rummage on a nice day' sort of problems. However, returning from work the other day, the noise became more pronounced and less associated with braking. The noise is almost certainly coming from somewhere up front - it almost sounds like a socket knocking against the bulkhead (to give an idea of the sound). I've jacked the car up: there is some play in the offside front wheel bearing, all the bushes seem ok with a pry bar. Does anyone have any other good ideas of where to look? I'm a bit gun-shy about driving it until I've located the noise - I had a trunnion fail twenty years ago (at low speed, fortunately), and don't fancy repeating the experience. Thanks,

Evening fellow Triumph enthusiast's. The mkIV is my daily driver, and this morning's commute was particularly wet. About halfway there the wiper motor started making a ghastly noise. Before I strip down and/or start ordering parts, what do people think? Motor, gear or something else? Answers on a postcard. Thanks!

Thank you Wimpus. I'll hopefully get to it today. And hopefully those seals will keep some water out!

Thanks for the replies. Now it's not quite so cold I'm going to fit them - would someone mind posting a picture of their seals in situ for reference? Thanks

Morning folks, and seasons greetings. Now the Spitfire (1971 mkIV) is mechanically happy, I thought it was about time to stop the water getting in. I've been browsing parts catalogues looking at the a post (windscreen) seal. Currently the car has furflex from the top of the b post all the way round to the top of the windscreen. From memory this doesn't seem correct. Should there be an additional rubber seal (see https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-620403) and then furflex, or just furflex up to the bottom of this seal? Or is the furflex satisfactory? And - should the door check strap gaskets be attached to the door or the a post? I'm sure on my 1500 (twenty years ago) they were attached to the latter, on the mkIV it's the former. Thanks in advance.

I suspect it's this one: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RL1341R

Evening all, I am on the cusp of ordering a rebuilt gearbox for my Spitfire which, at some point in its life had a 1300 Dolomite engine put in. Going by the numbers it should have a 3 rail box - but on closer inspection I'm not sure this is what's fitted. I can't strip the interior out as it's my every day car, so I've attached some pictures of what is visible. Hopefully someone will be able to say Ah-ha! If it helps, reverse is lift and to the right. J type overdrive fitted.

I would also like to see some picture please!

Thought I'd share this here before refitting tomorrow. The difference between ABT and AAU needles(!)

Thank you for the feedback. Ran out for a test this afternoon and pulling the choke out when it stumbled picked it right up and away it went. Happily I've just found a set of AAU needles in my box of bits. I'll pop them in and see what happens. Certainly richens up accordingly to mintylamb.

Here's one of the plugs for someone that can read these things.

Morning folks. Some of you may have seen my travails in the ignition forum. Solved that now, but I do have a new issue... Context for the car - mkIV 1300 with a Dolomite engine, rebuilt with a Kent TH2 fast road (at least it has the invoice for). Running 1500 SUs with ABT needles. K&N filters and an extractor 4 branch manifold. New fuel pump from Rimmer's. 123 distributor set to mkIV curve. Starts nicely, idles around 800. Dynamically timed to 10° BTDC. Goes well under load all the way up to 4000 rpm, then it feels like the ignition is breaking up, or there's not enough fuel flowing. Short shopping for richer needles, does anyone have any suggestions of things I can check/test first? All the best

Well, solved it. Thank you for all the helpful hints. Went back to first principles and started afresh. The instructions with the 1-2-3 are far from comprehensive and clear. I've attached a PDF that I found online that helps somewhat if anyone else finds themselves in my position. The 123 instructions suggest static timing to ATDC, this is no good - 10° BTDC is what is needed. The attached doc also provides a clue as to which curves are appropriate for which car. Thanks again. 123triumpmanual.pdf

Small update from the dark. There was a loose spade terminal on the starter solenoid - tightened up and the clicking has gone. With the king lead on the rocker cover I've got a good strong spark from the coil. Still doesn't want to start though. Does anyone running 123 have the starting setting/best curve for a 1300? I've attached the 123 table, but unfortunately it doesn't mean much to me. I was going to aim for 'C', but that hasn't worked.

That's what I'm stumped by. The car was rewired about twenty years ago before I got it. The red/white wire disappears into the loom, then a spade connector emerges for the distributor to hook up to.

This is the helpful instructions from 123.

Looks to be ok with 6 volts.

Hm, I haven't altered any wiring from the starter solenoid - coil side of things, just connected the 123 wires. Where can I pick up 12v from on an ignition circuit?

Afternoon folks, Almost at my wit's end with this one. I purchased the 123 distributor with the preset curves - fairly simple install - red to the + side of the coil, black to the -. When I tried starting the car it turned over but the starter solenoid was clicking in and out. The engine doesn't want to run/catch at all. At some point in the past a 1300 dolomite engine and starter has been installed so the solenoid is on the starter not the scuttle. Does anyone have any obvious ideas? I've attached pictures of the various wiring locations. New coil to match a ballasted ignition system. The original connection for the distributor is red and white banded and goes to the - side of the coil. Any suggestions welcome!

I fitted accuspark to an MGB years ago. Worked well for many years. Best of luck!

I went through a similar to-do with Powerspark as yorkshire_spam recently. Fired up the car once on the electronic ignition. Refused to start again, switched back to points and fired right up. They were insistent on sending out a replacement module, rather than refunding and started quoting outdated consumer rights legislation at me. The emails from them became downright unpleasant and I resorted to obtaining a refund via PayPal. Not what they used to be, unfortunately.

Morning Clive, Thanks for getting back to me - not afraid to strap the 'box to a pallet and send it to Sussex. I'm also in two minds about tackling it myself over the winter. Thanks again,

Morning folks, My gearbox (Spitfire mkIV, O/D) is noisy in 1/2/3 and quiet in 4th. Sounds rather like a straight-cut box. I suspect its time for a rebuild. Does anyone know of a specialist/recommended chappy in Cornwall? All the best,