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mpbarrett

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Posts posted by mpbarrett

  1. sorry my reply was  a bit vague...
    If the handbrake doesnt work well then there is a problem with the rear brake setup...
    The Greenstuff pads aren't great, put in a standard set or M1144 and try again, could be as simple as the wrong pads.
    Not sure if there is a lot of pedal movement or a soft pedal but as long as the pedal doesnt hit the floor, you should be able to lock the wheels.
    I tested this last weekend when someone pulled out in front of me, a standard 13/60 disk brake (with M1144 pads) can lock the wheels.......

    Mike

  2. M1144 work very well.
    You can have good brakes on a 13/60 and you can lock the wheels so its either the pads or something else. 
    New fluid makes a big difference, does the hand brake work? If not maybe the adjustment is wrong or the shoes the wrong way round (I am sure everyone has done that at least once).

    Is there much movement of the pedal before anything happens? I have heard of problems with the seals on caliper piston?
    I think I would start with different pads and then recheck the system.

    Mike

  3. the number of teeth in the wheel box is different for early and late Heralds. thus the angle changes. Also the position of the wheel box is different, the early ones are closer to the screen.
    From Rimmers web site

    "up to 1968 small wiper wheel boxes with 22 Teeth are used (with LH wiper inboard of LH washer jet) and the gear wheel inside the motor has 130 stamped on it. From 1969 the wiper wheel boxes with 32 Teeth are enlarged (and the LH wiper is outboard of the LH washer jet), the gear wheel inside the motor has 160 stamped on it."

    you can get a mini wheel box but the shaft is longer and will need a spacer turned to fit it in.

     

    mike

  4. Quoted from Velocita Rosso-

    Mike ...you should know me by now,after all these years............Where on earth was i offensive. The pure facts ONLY just spelt out, I have laid out what the RBRR committee advise verbally and in the regs

    Also FACT.JD said he would not post on this forum again

    Now explain to me, either written or verbally where my FACTS are offensive. There are no insults, swearing or mis-truth in my comments.  

    ok  I was wrong you weren't being offensive.
     I thought JohnD made a fair point and the attacks on him seemed unreasonable.. but I will shut up and go back to the garage 

    BTW as you said on the FB page "put someone politely in their place".. which is obviously not on this forum.

    Mike

  5. Here are my 3 points.

    1) realise that the forum is the most important visible part of CT, its the part that draws people into the Club. The web page is useful but not as important as the forum.

    2) Its need to be full page and run separately not as part of the web page. This approach works very well for most other car clubs forums. For example see TSSC, TR, Sideways..

    3) If running/support costs are an issue consider getting support from the users (this is the model used by Sideways), I am sure a lot of users would be happy to contribute, I would.

    Very glad this is getting addressed the forum used to be so good and was one of the reasons I joined CT. If you need to convinced that the forum is in trouble then look at the number of CT members on other forums...

    Mike

     

  6. Quoted from Velocita Rosso-
    Quoted from mpbarrett-

    OT:

    cant we increase the cost of joining the RBRR and then use the spare cash to develop a decent forum? Or use the Sideways funding model and get users to subscribe each year.

    CT really does need to get a decent working forum again, it used to so good and could be again. Just go and visit the TSSC or Sideways to see what a decent busy forum can be...

    Mike

    I`ll let the accountants officially answer that....along the same lines as to why the max entry level of The RBRR has been reduced.  

    I really really do not understand your reply.
    However I don't wont to mix up discussion about the rubbish forum and discussions about the RBRR entries so I will remain quiet and go back to some of the fun, active forums for Triumph people.
    Just for Tim, if I am around in Oct 2020 I will be more than happy to help at the  start again.

    Mike

     

  7. OT:

    cant we increase the cost of joining the RBRR and then use the spare cash to develop a decent forum? Or use the Sideways funding model and get users to subscribe each year.

    CT really does need to get a decent working forum again, it used to so good and could be again. Just go and visit the TSSC or Sideways to see what a decent busy forum can be...

    Mike

  8. I want to withdraw from this years 10CR. Can I do this on the web page if so how, been thru lots of pages but cant find a way of doing it! Or do I need to contact Ellis or Jason directly?

    The original plan was to do the event with Libby but her daughter starts school the same week as the 10CR starts...

    Thanks

    Mike

  9. Quoted from TedTaylor-
    Quoted from daver clasper-

    Hi. Any "tips and tricks" on crimping more heavy duty cable, eg battery to terminal fasteners, without the use of a pricey tool, please.

    Thanks, Dave

    Check on ebay - there  are tools sold for this purpose.

    In the past I have used a pair of short studs clamping the ferrule/sleeve between the jaws of a vice and wound up tight to create a two sided dimple that really clamps the heavy cable inside the furrule up solid.  Any less than this will not create a crimp tight enough to carry the sort of current you are referring to.

    For normal cable use a 'standard' crimping tool that has a 'rolling' action on the cable and the connector......... not one of the terrible things for coloured connectors which simply squashes the outer coloured sleeve and often pulls off if tugged. 

    Pre-insulated connectors - the work of the devil!

     

    MUT

    Unless you have a professional crimping tool then DONT try to use a crimp tool unless you want a very poor unreliable connection. Crimps can be excellent (I have used them on many installations and are standard on most professional systems) but only when using the correct tool.

    For you application you could solder it and then repair the cable insulation with a heat shrinking cable.

    cheers

    mike

  10. Thanks,
    I am planning to change them, The Herald is going on a road trip with friends up to Scotland in April so will need some decent rubber on it, but I was surprised how old they were!
    Will have to have a look on here at a recent thread about different tyres.

    mike

  11. Just been looking at the tyres on the Herald and realised that they are all over 9 years old (I have had it a long time). They look ok maybe a bit crazed and the rubber does feels a bit hard compared to new tyres,  I notice that there are a lot of recommendations that tyres should be changed after 6 years.
    Whats do others do? Do you worry about the age or just change them once all the tread has gone

    cheers
    mike

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