Rubce

Hi All

I have been cleaning up the diff off our Gt6. It ha a serial no. FRI1141 stamped into the casing. I believe this marks it as a 3.63:1 ratio. When I checked this by turning the input flange, it took just under 3 turns to rotate the output flange once. I am confused as I expected it to just over 3.5 turns. Am I doing something wrong?

I intend to replace the pinion and output seals. Does anybody have any advice for me regarding that task?

Thanks

Bruce

No more rolling around on the floor ;)

When I took the second unit apart I discovered that the damper has lost all its oil and was doing sod all which goes some way to explaining why the car was bottoming out at the front end for the month before I took it off the road for its resto.

A friend of mine made a spring compressor unit which would be both suitable for his motorbike and the GT6. Note the subtle addition of a clamp to enable the tool to be held firmly in a vice.

Bruce :)

Hi

I borrowed an endoscope and had a look inside the box section and it appeared fine. Put it this way, not bad enough to warrant spending 110quid on a new pair of outriggers. The repair section I have inserted is thicker plate than on a new rigger and the new tubes are actually solid bar drilled through which gives a wall thickness of about 8mm which will be fine to use as a jacking point and again way more substantial than the tube on a new rigger.

Hey ho

Cheers

Bruce

After a gap of a couple of weeks whilst I did some running repairs to the Stag, work on the GT6 has recommenced. Yesterday I finished the weld repairs to the chassis, which consisted of inserting repair sections to the two front outriggers and fitting new bolt tubes. The tubes are actually brake disc mounting bushes used on railway rolling stock which I had salvaged out of the scrap bin.

Bruce

Hi

I made my own harness from scratch for our Stag and intend to do the same for our GT6 when I get to that stage in the resto. It's a straight forward activity provided you can read a wiring diagram!

On the Stag I relocated the fusebox, relays and electronic ignition inside the car cabin. The original 12 position bakerlite fusebox was replaced with a 24 spade fuse type. All the cable routes were moved away from the engine exhaust manifolds etc to limit the heat exposure. Mark each wire with an individual ident at each end which makes fault finding so much easier at a later date. I also used modern relays and put relays in on the headlights etc to remove the load off the original switches.

On the GT6 I will be moving all the relays etc off the bulkhead ledge and putting them behind the parcel shelf to help keep the weather off them.

VWP sell almost everything you will require.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

Have fun

Bruce

Work has progressed this week with the rear section of the chassis de-rusted and primed. Rustbuster epoxy mastic paint has been applied since the above photo was taken. I have also been busy bead blasting the various suspension components and then priming them. About two thirds are done and hopefully I will get the other bits finished off this week. The underfloor heating in the kitchen is great for drying out paint on suspension items ;)

Bruce

Hi All

Has anyone on here got experience of the new GT6 steel bonnet assemblies which TD Fitchett sell? They seem a good lot cheaper than Rimmers.

regards

bruce

Hi All

Thanks for all your replies. I should have said that our car is a late mark 3 non rotflex. Can someone please advise of the correct lengths for the radius links and drive shafts so I can check the came gas the correct bits fitted. The spring is one I purchased from Paddocks three years ago.

Regards

The other GT6 loving Bruce :)

Hi

Yes I was aware a small element of camber was required but I think our car has an excessive amount but perhaps that is just in my mind as I am comparing it to our Stag. How can the camber be adjusted on a GT6?

Cheers

Bruce

Hi All

Etching primer starting to go on the chassis.  :)

Bruce

Hi All

One thing that always bugged me about our GT6 was the way the rear wheels pointed inwards at the top despite having a new rear leaf spring fitted 3 years ago. Someone in the TSSC mentioned that a while ago that he had fitted packers to his cars rear spring to make the wheels sit vertical. I also vaguely remember reading an article in a mag where the GT6 had been modified to take coil springs at the rear.

All comment or suggestions on the above appreciated.

Thanks

Bruce

Hi Markus

Actually the chassis is much better condition than I was expecting :). That nasty section on the bodytub was not!!!!! :'( I will be doing your hammer banging suggestion at the weekend when I have it dangling off my crane. ;)

Thanks

Bruce

The garage now contains a giant Airfix kit ;D

Oh, for a larger workshop!

And after I cleaned it up a bit. This is not the first time that section has been repaired as indicated by the twin thickness section and the drain hole being blocked up.

This is the underside of one of the front outriggers.

The grinder and wire wheel uncovered a few holes.  :(

This is the front.

The chassis is now stripped and I have started to clean it up with the use of a grinder and wire wheel. A large proportion of the filth was successfully transfered onto me and I ended up covered from head to foot!

Hi

A fascinating thread for me as I am a few months behind you. Did you purchase greasable top ball joints? What type of paint is under the blue? I am thinking of applying "anti-chip" paint to mine after a couple of coats of Rustbuster expoxi-mastic anti rust paint.

Keep up the good work. I am very envious of your workshop!

Regards

Bruce

I spent a few hours this afternoon dismantling the suspension. All the rear end is off, as is one side of the front. The only issue I came across was the bolt passing through the lower offside front trunnion refusing to come out despite a few hefty blows with the lump hammer :( I left it soak with some penetrating oil and will have another go tomorrow. Is the trunnion simply screwed onto the bottom of the vertical link? Anybody got any good tips for their separation?

Regards

Bruce

Hmm, I will set the grinder ans wire wheel onto them and see what turns up. If they have not been patched before I will attempt to straighten the bottom edges. I want to avoid changing them if possible as my budget could do without the hit!

Bruce

Hi

The top edge of the outriggers seems flat enough and I simply thinking of trying to straight out the bottom edge. Perhaps welding on a strengthening plate is the way to go? I am also considering fitting new tubes as both bolts were seized into position and required their heads cutting off to enable the bodytub to lift off.

Regards

Bruce

The area around the rear spring had almost no paint or underseal remaining but so far I haven't found any holes in that area so it looks as if I have caught it in time.

We rolled the bodytub onto its side to allow good access to the underside.