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Topic63

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Posts posted by Topic63

  1. I’m narrowing things down slowly, the KYB dampers are (as far as I can see for now) for a VW Beetle on part No.343144.

    Just waiting on confirmation from KYB Europe and USA but they are only sold in the States which I find a little strange, there again I suppose the call for them in the UK is very low 🤷‍♂️

    I’ll keep you all posted..........

    A7E28B85-1437-45D9-8B6F-45641E1E2412.jpeg

  2. 2 hours ago, Ed H said:

    I bought rear shocks for my rotoflex 69 GT6+ from Spitbits in the US.  They are KYB brand.  I ended up not using them, rather opting to do the frame extensions and use non-rotoflex shocks.

    The original upper shock attachment points were in really bad shape on my car, with a lot of hidden rust between the wheel well and the doubler plate.  Some pics  the rust repair and the frame extensions here:

    http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-41/GT6-41.html

    Ed

    KYB are certainly the only supplier, however the down side is that most if not all suppliers don’t give out the actual KYB part number so makes it extremely difficult to track them down in Europe or the UK......I’ll get there in the end 👍

    KYB Part numbers for this type is a 6 digit number similar to ‘342711’ All I need is that number to finally track them down.

  3. 4 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

    They pretty much all have some rot there as the water gets between the spot welded layers. The inner arch panels usually fail first because they are thinner, but it doesn’t much show as it’s in the cabin under glued down carpet.

    On mine, one side was showing signs of bubbling and bulging on the inside (carpet removed) but looked ok in the arch. The inside looked fine. Both sides go removed by drilling out the many spot welds and on both sides the inner arch panels were well rotted with large sections cut out and new metal let in. I’ve gone directly to the chassis with the dampers now so the brackets were left off.

    Nick

    Mine is a bit of a garage queen and doesn’t go out in the wet 😁😎😎

    I’m happy and confident that the inner arch mounts are in good order 👍

  4. 4 minutes ago, garyf said:

    Yes

    These Koni dampers are for use with the Chassis Brackets

    It might be worth swapping to this type or GAZ equivalents if you can't source the correct longer dampers, as I believe the wheel arch top mounts can fatigue and crack on the GT6.

    But it will be more costly for sure.

    Regards

    Gary

    The GT was rebuilt not that long ago so I’m not concerned about fatigue or corrosion at this time (it’s like new!)

    I've also heard about this fatigue/corrosion issue but then again I've also heard it’s a bit of scaremongering due to lack of maintenance, unloved cars 🤷‍♂️  

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, Clive said:

    Try rock auto. Get a pn from them and it may, just may, turn up stuff in the UK.

    I got the oil filter adapters fro rockauto, they do a import duty paid scheme which was not stupidly expensive.

    Eventually managed to email Rockauto, that is one over-engineered web site 🤪😁

    I'm sure that the one they have listed is non-rotoflex but I’ve asked the question? 

  6. 10 minutes ago, garyf said:

    Here's some images of the Bush Modifications/Spacers and the Drawing of the Koni 80/1717 Damper detailing open and closed lengths

    I got the Top hat Bushes from Chris Witor, Superflex Reference 0365 and the Top Extension Brackets and special top Bolt off Mark at Jigsaw

    Regards

    Gary

    Bracket & Bushes.jpg

    Modified Bush & Spacer Washer.jpg

    80-1717.pdf 114.02 kB · 1 download

    The only problem is I’m looking for dampers that fit the inner arch mounts. I assume to fit these you have had to fit the chassis extension mounts to avoid the rotoflex couplings?

    I would (if I can) find the longer damper as a straight exchange - Without having to go Gaz 🤷‍♂️

    Im still looking into it and searching various options, KYB seem to be the boys but it’s availability in the UK.

  7. 2 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

    KYB make a decent damper. Is it listed for anything other than GT6 by BPNW?

    Will they ship to the UK?

    Nick

    I have asked, I’ve also emailed KYB Europe to see if it’s available or can be sourced for the UK.

  8. 2 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

    What seems to be missing from all of the threads so far is the open/closed lengths of a “proper” Roto damper? The Koni 80-1389 recommendation is for rotoflex cars using the chassis mounts, not for use with original inner wing mounts.

    I removed mine earlier and should have taken some measurements....Lol

    I'll take one off again tomorrow and measure it, the ones fitted are Girling not that this matters. There has to be a similar damper used on other cars with similar dimensions?

  9. These are the VW Beetle type and look very similar?

    These have an opening length of 415mm & a closed length of 270mm. It would be good to find another alternative similar to the OEM parts......

    Ive also emailed the Heritage parts center to see if they have heard of this retro fit onto GT6’s 🤷‍♂️

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  10. 28 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

    The info is here amongst much else, some of it red herrings!

    https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/6445-damper-sizing-on-lowered-gt6/&tab=comments#comment-105919

    Not the thread I was thinking of but has the Koni numbers towards the end.

    I’ve read that the mini ones bottom out?

    I’m still investigating the Beetle ones which have a fully open length of 415mm and closed 270mm so I’m not sure if they would make the rear end sit high?

    Given that it seems OEM ones are now NLA someone must have found, tried and fitted an alternative?

  11. 1 hour ago, Clive said:

    Rimmers suggest GSA280

    https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID008057?selectedcurrency=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8eOLBhC1ARIsAOzx5cEr5T5VNaPjZxlD7j5oCmLuCJl5rutEY2tslIZfqfTU5kSyFRS7684aAjNaEALw_wcB

    As indeed do Canleys (though NLA in std or Koni)

    https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-gt6-mki/ii&diagram=triumph-gt6-mki/ii-rear-suspension-rotoflex

     

    There is a thread somewhere which shows a VW beetle shock is almost identical. A search may turn up definitive info

    VW Beetle 1303 by the looks but would be nice if someone could confirm?

  12. Yes, I’ve just been looking at the VW Beetle 1303 rear shocks and they do look about right.

    Has anyone actually fitted these or have the correct part number?

    It seems the rotoflex rear shocks are unobtainable which I find strange?

  13. On a GT6 Mk3 are listed two different rear shock absorbers (GSA280 or GSA385)

    Could someone please confirm which is the correct part number for the Rotoflex type, ie. longer shock - I assume it’s the GSA385, the number reflecting the length?

  14. 43 minutes ago, ferny said:

    This was what I bought when I did my own in April 2019.

     

     

    Screenshot_20211024-172749_Email.jpg

    Just had a look at your list of parts from McGill’s - Cracking reply 👍

    I’ll be getting these on order.

  15. After a discussion with Chris Witor with an opportunity to help other Mk3 GT6 owners, he arranged to have a prototype made of the 3 way adapter in stainless steel. The only stainless ones available currently are the 3 spigot type, there are none which had a 3/8” boss fitted for a heater valve.

    Attached are photographs of the original V’s the stainless steel which will hopefully soon be available from Chris Witor. He also stocks the stainless steel banjo bolts, the original having a problem of snapping when being removed.

    Thankfully mine came apart without incident but I did take my time heating the inlet manifold with a hot air gun first and then taking things easy removing the banjo bolt, a few reversing turns as it yielded to clean the threads.

    77958C4E-11AF-43CF-88A2-63F8358BDC47.jpeg

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    • Like 2
  16. 28 minutes ago, roger keys said:

    Sadly, you have answered your own question. Cheap, sub standard parts get made because few people want to pay for decent quality parts.

    And that appears to include you, as you then go on to say £52 is too much to pay for a pair of good ones.

    Ask yourself if your expectation is resonable?

    Out of that £52 is 20% tax. So that leaves £43.

    From that, it needs to be produced, by someone, packaged, shipped to a distributor. Plus duty paid at import, likely to be 3-4%.  Then stored, and sold on, for a profit. Assuming there isnt an extra company in the chain (likely).

    And there will be a minimum production of these, so someone needs to invest in what is a part for a niche car, which may take months or years to sell all of them. If indeed they ever all sell.

    Rant over!

    This is from someone who is currently pondering producing some classic car parts, in the full knowledge, that whilst i know they will be good, will not be the cheapest, and wondering how long it will take, if ever, to recoup my investment..............................................

    Not arguing with your comments and I will undoubtedly have to invest in the upgraded versions at a later date, what we shouldn’t accept is a product that is of a questionable quality.

    ’Some’ do take advantage of the classic car market and do charge what I would call silly money, you can easily see this when you compare similar parts that are readily available for other marquees at a reasonable cost and question why they then attract a premium for classics?

    I’ve come across this a few times (drop links being one such item) for example, a very similar if not virtually identical link for a BMW was retailing at £12 so you have to question why £52 for a Triumph - It’s not as if someone has had to reinvent the wheel, a difference in length and possibly imperial threads rather than metric, the machinery and initial investment has already been covered.

    All of these parts have been around for many, many years and I accept that as cars get older and rarer the demand drops off, cost do increase for smaller production runs however, in the case of Powertune, they seem to be the only manufacturer of this certain item and sell it on to ALL the distributors we tend to now use, so their client base is huge.

    Another pointer is the likes of Rimmers, they have bought out other smaller retailers so they can monopolies the market and do charge over the odds for spares that are (in some cases) sub-standard, this is a case of profiteering rather than looking after the marquee or it’s customers.

  17. Regarding a recent issue with the quality of Drop links, I’ve had replies from most of the suppliers and sadly all so far have said their parts come from Powertune in Turkey.

    I discussed the issue with TD Fitchetts who are also supplied by the same company, sadly there appears to be no alternatives these days, it seems we are stuck with these sub-standard parts!?

    Does anyone know of a different supplier that can offer a quality part?

    In future I may consider the upgraded double ball joint version but at £52 a pair, it’s a little steep 🤷‍♂️

  18. 14 minutes ago, PeteStupps said:

    Yes sorry it was just the ARB links I was referring to in my previous question. Was hoping you could tell me where to get decent ones!

    Just sent you a message Pete 👍

  19. I would add that the new drop links came from Powertune and I’m not impressed with the LH drop link, just doesn’t look right after fitting 🤔🤔

    They are definitely not made to the same standard or quality as the old units. I’ll see how they perform and possibly upgrade them to the double ball joint version at a later date.

  20. 5 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

    Have you replaced them? I was going to do mine last year but the new ones ("powertune" branded rubbish) were sloppier than the old knackered ones... so I didn't change them.

    I have just replaced all the front end with DuraFlex Poly bushes, all fitted perfectly 👍

    My only concern were the ARB bushes but these are now fitting a lot better after some added grease.

  21. 6 hours ago, Guppy916 said:

    I'm sure that when I fitted mine there is adjustment inside the door, as you can see fully open and fully closed 

    have a look here 

    https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-gt6-mkiii&diagram=triumph-gt6-mkiii-door-assembly-glass-and-channels

    IMG_9067.jpg

    IMG_9068.jpg

    Screen Shot 2021-10-18 at 14.51.18.png

    Mine actually sit just a touch higher within the frame but still only about half onto the top door seal?

    the quarter light frame is also almost tight onto the pillars due to the 2 screws that attach the top hinge so no further adjustment there, likewise the glass on the other side (door pillar) is also touching at the uppermost corner.

    As above mine was also totally renovated not that long ago so I’ll keep an eye on the next Mk3 I see and compare 🤷‍♂️

  22. 5 hours ago, Guppy916 said:

    Hi I fitted Rimmer's part No RG1307PBR on my Mk3 about 4/5 years ago torqued them up, I must say I didn't notice them being out of shape, every thing has been fine since no clunks or horrible noise's 

    https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1307PBR

    Same item but from different supplier, all good now.

    some grease on the clamp brackets made a world of difference.

    One job I’m glad I carried out.....Found one lower wishbone bracket loose and 2 shot drop links!!

    At least least all the front end is now finally poly bushed 👍👍

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