Richard B
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Posts posted by Richard B
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There is a Stag engined Dolomite around, but the guy had to lengthen the front wings by 2".
I think it actually made the Dolomite look better proportioned, IMHO 🙂 -
Toyota Carina & Corolla from the 80's with the Canley conversion kit.
or the Isuzu Trooper with a bit of machining.
9 teeth and make sure it rotates the correct way!
Something like this -
No thats a Lucas, you want a Nippon Denso.
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Quoted from Flying Farmer
Incidentally, I made another inlet manifold out of steel tube with a modified rover vitesse plenum on the top and gained another 45bhp without even touching the fueling or ignition
Neil could you post a picture or two? Please....
What did you do regarding the waterways that go from the heads to the manifolds?
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Quoted from Flying Farmer
The final set up was arrived at after reading that rover V8s needed the plenum trumpets shortening to make them rev. I shortened mine by 1 to 1.5 inches to make them all the same length and also split them down the side and bashed in a big socket to flare them out before welding a piece into the resulting triangular hole.
Torque was better all the way through the rev range and best of all fuel consumption normally runs at high 20's though I did p*ss off a lot of TR owners when we did an economy run and I won with 35mpg (the engine is in a TR5)
Could we have some pictures please?
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Quoted from mikew
why not ?
they are only used on Italian exotica and race engines ?
Last quote I heard was about -
EFI should improve the power & economy of a V8.
and I can't afford a V8 PI Metering Unit. -
Quoted from mikew
Castings ??? not as much as you think once the patterns are done, but they will need machining as well.
Well I'm only concerned about the cost of the casting's (preferably machined) at present.
This would be yet another of my 'projects'. The megasquirt etc would be acquired later. I've always thought the Stag Induction & Extraction systems needed improvement. -
I like Mike's idea to split the manifold into two. Resolves the problems of sealing the waterways on both heads.
There must be a better way to deal with those Stag waterways! 🤔 -
Quoted from mikew
Thats my other long term project. I have made up a new "dummy" set of inlet manifolds - 2 so they can be individually bolted to the heads, one has the thermostat housing, with the other manifold connected via a hose - this means less sealing problems in the V (even with skimmed heads) you will even be able to dowl them to the heads to get port matching correct.
Interested, depending on price. Been an idea on the back boiler for a while...
The PI manifold does not include the water ways. -
Twin 1-1/4" SU's from an early Spitfire (maybe),couple of bhp and juicier. As Clive says get a good sports exhaust manifold (more value for money), (followed by a K&N?).
Don't fit 1-1/2" SU's from a 1500, onto standard 13/60, be well over-carbed! -
Nick_Jones wrote:
If you call back brakes only half a breaking system...... more like a 5th :o Still, better than nothing (handbrake :P)
Nick
or you split it; Front Left - Rear Right, Front Right - Rear Left.
Flemming, look for Spitfire or GT6 Tandem systems as fitted for some overseas markets?
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Dual circuit brake system. If one circuit fails you still have the other half a braking system. ??)
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davidcourier wrote:
- What would be a good length to start with for the track rods?
Should give 1/16'' Toe-in.davidcourier wrote:- Are the track-rod brackets on the chassis in the same place as the herald ones, if not not where should I drill new holes?
I think they are different on a Vitesse, they are are on a GT6. Try to find someone who has an unused outrigger, as some have two sets of holes so as to fit MkI & MkII. Rimmers list the Vit MkII one for the Herald so they have probably commonised it. Canleys & Paddocks list different part numbers.
Bear in mind the outrigger has strengthener tubes inside to stop the box section being crushed.davidcourier wrote:- Are the brackets for the lower wishbone on a vitesse in the same place as the GT6 ones?
On the GT6 there seems to be 7.3 cm between the bracket and the bridge in which the rear of the diff is bolted.
Should be same place relative to diff mountsdavidcourier wrote:- I remember reading somewehere that the original setup for the shock absorbers can be used with a CV conversion...is this true or should I use the conversion kit with shorter dampers and chassis brackets
Should fit, the dougnut causes the clearance problem.
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Looking good; to paraphrase Shakespear ''is that a non-overdrive gearbox I see before me?''
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irish44j wrote:Also put on the 3/4" spring spacer and new Spitfire engine studs to replace the short diff studs. The only thing isthat the Spitfire studs are TOO long, so I'll have to use a couple washers at the top once the spring is installed
You might have a clearance problem with the plate over the diff. Might I suggest you get a die and cut the threads a bit lower and the shorten the studs to suit.
Looking good though!
oh yeah, wow what about the screwdriver? -
Did you know you can get Rotaflex wishbones and vertical links in aluminium?
Spitfire 1500 dolomite starter
in Electrical
Posted
Dolomite 1300 is the same as Spitfire, it's only the Dolomite 1500 that got the unique flywheel and starter.
Different teeth and gearing. I would say change the flywheel or think of something else to do....