mikew

Yes it might for a while, but the rubber will harden and will probably leak at some point. So you want high pressure petrol squirting round the boot area ? it not as if you have a proper firewall between it and you in a triumph.

Do you want to take the chance ?

If you look at all high pressure terminations to rubber pipe, either oem or aftermarket, all of them either have "barbs" or at a minimum a rolled bead, or two, specifically designed to prevent the rubber coming away when the rubber work hardens. Additionally you shouldn't use jubilee clips, because they do not give constant pressure round the rubber. There are specific fuel line clamps available which ensure constant pressure round the joint.

50 psi or so petrol puts a great deal more strain on pipes and fittings than 4 psi from the block mounted fuel pumps to the carbs, and it is 50 psi or so after the pump, its the regulator that drops it to 40 psi for the fuel rail and injectors.

It is mad to cut corners here.

I had a friend and 2 of his mates cremated in a car when a fuel line burst after a crash - the pump didn't stop for some reason. The accident was survivable, the petrol fire wasn't

The only way I'd consider this, would be a compression fitting with an olive, NEVER rubber fuel line clamped with jubilee clips or similar

Oh TR tax - IIRC the last ones I saw were about £150

Yes and no,

Disconnect steering column wiring looms from multiplugs

Undo upper steering column UJ bolt in engine bay

Undo 2 bolts that hold column to dash, and the 2 bolts in the mounting that attaches to the bulkhead

Pull column out - usually its rusted in the UJ joint !

remove bush

insert new bush - these can be a pig as they are now poly - heat it in warm water helps

reverse proceedure !

what can go wrong - they are usually very tight in the new busk and hard to reinsert

mike

The problem is the torsion bars have lost their tension. They are not adjustable, but they are replaceable.

Find another set and swap them over, keep your own hinge assemblies as they are different car to car, because of the nature of hand assembly at Carbodies

The method is shown in my blog 7th January this year

mike

Tony,

even with the puller you still need to extract either the bolts, or the studs, as both are at an angle to each other, and without one set removed the puller will not work.

it is completely normal to use the 2 nut method, simply turn the 2 nuts against each other as tight as possible, this locks them on the stud, then using a ring spanner if possible turn the lower nut, the top one will stop it rotating on the stud.

sometimes it helps to try tightening the stud first with the top nut - unless you are exceedingly unlucky some of the studs will come out.

stud extractor tools can work, but will damage the threads.

some of the triumph specialists sell an extractor tool (which is basically the 2 nut method) with extended flanges so it is easier to grip with spanners)

if you really don't fancy the job a good motor engineers will do it for you, Enginuity, Wards and a few others have good, but expensive reputations - me I enjoy the challenge!

good luck

mike

Tony,

the SOC club have a few head pullers floating about, but I'd still soak with plus gas for a few weeks anyway - make some "catch tanks" round the top of the studs with rtv sealant or similar so you can leave a puddle of plus gas round the studs to save the need to keep reapplying it.

I take it you used the 2 nut trick (one locked against the other) on top of the stud so that the nuts didn't rotate on the stud?

mike

i think Alan is best placed to advise on replacement oil for the RBRR, and how to get your mates to deliver it enroute

mike

I think my misfortunes and delay are due to a cunning plot by Alan - he recommended the paintshop that I used  ;)

However Andy Roberts Chair of the 2000 register may have the last laugh, because he still has Alan's engine in lots of pieces scattered over his garage floor, I think a few crates of brown ale (or similar) may persuade him to loose a few critical components for a year or so  ;D

mike

That suits me, I don't want to do the RBRR in another car!

mike

Yes, go on, I'd like to see if I have more to do than you, at least I have a gearbox and part engine in mine ;D

mike

You don't really want my to do list do you?

mike

I've seen it, doesn't sort out the breathing though, but could be an interim step

mike

Quoted from Beans

First test drive today and safe for these few tiny problems it was rather good fun.
Mainly due to the glorious weather it was a rather enjoyable afternoon.
And she looks absolutely gorgeous in the bright sunlight ...

Only a few small problems remain.
These will be sorted tomorrow afternoon ...

I must say what a fabulous result, I bet you are so pleased, and having followed your blog I know what a thorough effort you put into all the parts that make up the car.

Well done and enjoy the car

mike

Quoted from Flying Farmer

To conclude, do away with the stag manifold but watch inlet tract length very carefully as this is where sucsess or failure lie.
PS complete injection system cost me

Quoted from anthropoidape

For EFI, I would not look just at megasquirt, I would look first at dropping in working EFI from a similar displacement V8 engine... BMW, Rover, etc. Early 90s EFI would probably be the easiest, as more ECUs then were standalone and didn't require BCMs and other extraneous bits. All you'd have to worry about is the manifold (which admittedly is a fair bit of worry).

If you are going to install LPG, installing EFI is a complete waste of time anyway. One or the other.

I assume it is unacceptable to mention that a complete engine and gearbox swap would give much better results for both performance and economy than anything you could do with the Stag engine.

Megasquirt ecu's, and enerald, omex etc, are programmable and can be mapped exactly to your engine, an old ecu from another car will probably not be correct but a compromise.

The point about efi and lpg is the availability of lpg. you certainly cannot get lpg every where, probably only 1 in 50 filling stations - I don't think you could possibly do the rbrr with lpg.

And yes, it is pointless swapping for another engine - particularly from my own view point with a ff system on the bw35 box.

mike

Quoted from Richard B

EFI should improve the power & economy of a V8.

and I can't afford a V8 PI Metering Unit.

why not ?

they are only used on Italian exotica and race engines ?

EFI on the 6 pot unit takes fuel economy from 25mpg to 35/40 mpg so its a significant improvement, should be similar on the V8

mike

Quoted from StagNL

Personally I'd prefer a setup that uses the carbs and LPG rather than pay double the price for both PI and LPG.
LPG systems in this country (NL) generally must be installed by certified businesses which often drives the price up and I don't have a money tree in the garden.

Julian

Gas systems here have to be certified, but you can do the work yourself and get it inspected and certified.

If you are only really after LPG, why not use the old gas mixer type - this works reasonably with carbs and could be made to fit your manifold, as it would sit as a mixer ring just under the carbs.

My intention was to allow the possibility of "injection" lpg, which works as well as efi

mike

Quoted from Nick Jones

Sounds ok to me.  I'd imagine the main cost would be the casting patterns and tooling up for the machining.  I don't have any kind of feel for what that might be.  Numbers produced will obviously have a huge effect on total manufacturing cost but I reckon that anything up to

Collective reply to the above, sorry about this but I am busy in Edinburgh at the moment.

Costs:-

Megasquirt, and the injectors, sensors, throttle body etc about

Quoted from andy thompson

What  Stags desperately need is a decent inlet manifold and dare I say injection ? The standard set up serves only one purpose I can see and that is to fit under the bonnet

Thats my other long term project. I have made up a new "dummy" set of inlet manifolds - 2 so they can be individually bolted to the heads, one has the thermostat housing, with the other manifold connected via a hose - this means less sealing problems in the V (even with skimmed heads) you will even be able to dowl them to the heads to get port matching correct.

I am going for the single plenum, throttle body approach (like rover v - I am having some difficulty resolving the "adjustment" of the second manifold into the plenum but this will get sorted when time allows.

It should all be done in 3 castings, 2 manifolds and the plenum, with a removable flat alloy top plate on the plenum. Room in the plenum for standard intake trumpets.

Use megasquirt etc etc

Should improve fuel economy, hot starting etc etc

But what would be the demand?

mike