Wheelman

Thanks for the advice. I've been practicing the procedure using the old needle and jet having cleaned the carburettor. I've not yet replaced the o rings, but will do so when I fit the new needle and jet, and then perform the alignment procedure. I have discovered that old needle is very slightly bent, and is probably the reason why I have so far not successfully aligned the jet without the piston getting stuck. Luckily I have an old CD125, so I'm going try using the needle from that for a final practice run.

I am replacing the metering needle and jet orifice on a Stromberg CD150 (Herald 13/60). I have gathered quite a lot of information from the internet, and the procedure for the centralisation of the jet seems to be, lift the air valve piston, screw the jet up so it is just proud of the bridge and then slacken off the whole jet assembly half a turn to release the orifice bush and release the piston to centralise the jet. However, with the jet assembly only slackened by half a turn, the jet orifice spring is still under considerable compression, so that all I will end up with is a damaged needle. To release the orifice bush, I have to back off the jet assembly multiple turns so that the first engagement of the jet with the needle is well down the taper. Is the latter correct? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.  

Thanks for the replies. I have downloaded a copy of the Stanpart spare parts catalogue, which has some wonderfully detailed exploded diagrams, including the carburettor, and that does not show the spring, neither is it detailed in the associated list of parts. However, on the basis that the car was previously running with the spring fitted, its going back in.

After several years of being out of reach in the garage, I have had a clear out and managed to get to my Herald. As its not been started for quite a while, I decided that it may be a good idea to clean out the fuel system, so I started will the carburettor. On taking it apart, I found that someone else had been there first, and there were a few issues with it. The diaphragm was incorrectly fitted and not aligned with the locating notches, and the metering needle was not straight, which may have accounted for what I remember as a sluggish performance. So having cleaned it out and bought a refurb kit, I'm now set to put it back together. However, having soured the internet to find the default settings for the various adjustments so that the car has a chance of starting and the final adjustments, all the information I have gathered would indicate that the Herald 13/60 CD150 setup is not fitted with an air valve piston spring. Does anyone know if this is correct, as mine is fitted with a spring?  

Hi, can anyone tell me what the unloaded ride height should be for the front suspension on a 13/60 convertible? I have recently rebuilt the offside suspension, replacing all the wishbone bushes, the trunnion housing bushes, the top ball joint and the shock absorber, but reused the spring. I have done this on a budget, and have used 'standard' parts from the well known suppliers. Now that I have re-assembled the suspension assembly, refitted the road wheel and lowered to the ground, I have noticed that on the nearside which I have not touched, that the upper ball joint is marginally lower than the upper wishbone pivot centres (wishbone end slopes away from the chassis member), whereas, the offside ball joint is marginally higher than the upper wishbone pivot centres (wishbone end slopes to the chassis member). The spring seat on the replacement shock absorber is about the same height as the old shock absorber.  I have not yet torqued up the wishbone bushes yet, as I believe this should be done with the car loaded.