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thankyou closer inspection it seems it is the speedo cable seals that are leaking

thank you very much ill check what you advise

can anyone shed any light on this please i am loosing quite a lot of oil from the gearbox on my non overdrive vitesse 6 over a fairly short period of time asside the front and rear gearbox oil seals is there anywhere else where the gearbox can be loosing oil ? looking underneath it seems quite oily round where the speedo cable goes into box Thanks in advance

thanks ill have a look there and at the other ignitions you mention

Thank you   i have a suspicion it may be the dizzy as i say i did experience problems beofre that i put down to either the condenser or a dodgy rotor and there are plenty of those !!   the replacement dizzy is not that much more thasn the kit so im thinking of going down that route i do not think its the coil i will though check this earth strap you mention   daft question i know but where is the engine earth strap !!

Hi the plugs were changed recently and ive 2 good rotors from the distributor doctor they look ok, cap looks fine but ive got another one i can put on there are no capacitors or condensors still attached, the coil is pretty new but i have another i can change it to ? the leads were from acuspark couple of years back but these were on before i changed to Electronic ignition could it be all of those they have not done many miles im wondering if something odd is going on with the dizzy. the reason i changed to electronic ignition was i was having similar problems as im experiencing now whne it was on pionts but assumed it was faulty condensers as when i put a new one on it seemed okay again i ran the car this morning not to far on the original electronic module that broke down and it was okay to make it more complicated !! what about getting a complete new dizzy with the electronic kit built in and trying that they have them i think at accuspark?

Hi Thanks very much for the reply's the unit failed after about 5/6 miles run round although yesterday she did not start first time as she always did seemed very lumpy. when the engine was hot started with a gentle miss fire at first pulling away under load then just cut out and woule not start at all same as the first one i had did. i put a spark plug tester on one lead and there was no spark at the plugs? to see waht happened i put the old one back in again and it fired up first time although ive not got the engine hot just started her up any idea's would be welcome maybe ive had 2 bad units that seem to break down?

can anyone shed any light on this problem please i have a 65 vitesse although it is a 6 its possitive earth i have had 2 failed electronic ignition kits now from acuspark perhaps i have been unlucky they seem to last for around 700 miles or about 8 months then just break down with no spark to fire the engine. both have had the same fault ive checked all i can think of on the car the voltage regulator is new and is putting out 13.5 volts at 2000 revs which i assume is fine. the coil is the correct one and was replaced when the first unit broke down just as a precaution. ive used the supplied heat sink paste and its correctly wired up. can anyone offer any advise in fairness to acuspark they replaced the first one free of charge ive yet to contact them re this second one failing. i may just have to buy another. the car isn't used that much its lives outside under a carport and cover but its driven once a week at least even in the winter months  could it be that with an electronic module? or could it be the car is + earth and id be better switching it to negative then getting the neg earth module   any advise appreciated  

can anyone shed any light on this problem please i have a 65 vit 6 possitive earth i have had 2 failed electronic ignition kits now from acuspark perhaps i have been unlucky they seem to last for around 700 miles or about 8 months then just break down with no spark to fire the engine. both have had the same fault ive checked all i can think of on the car the voltage regulator is new and is putting out 13.5 volts at 2000 revs which i assume is fine. the coil is the correct one and was replaced when the first unit broke down just as a precaution. ive used the supplied heat sink paste and its correctly wired up. can anyone offer any advise in fairness to acuspark they replaced the first one free of charge ive yet to contact them re this second one failing. i may just have to buy another. the car isn't used that much its lives outside under a carport and cover but its driven once a week at least even in the winter months  could it be that with an electronic module? or could it be the car is + earth and id be better switching it to negative then getting the neg earth module   any advise appreciated  

Thanks very much for your reply thought as much i may just do the drivers side for now then and do the other side later when its better weather !!

i need to change the steering rack clamp bushes on my 65 vit 6 the drivers side looks easily accessible but would i have to raise the engine to gain access to the bush on the passenger side it looks like its right up under the engine   thanks

have your carbs got the dash pot springs in or out Dave

thanks all i will try this electronic ignition see of that helps but yes Pete the damper springs are in the carbs they have been since i owned it could this be why it runs rich round town plugs are black in town driving so im guessing they are fowling up they colour up nicely though once its on the open road.

yes Acruspark do one for positive earth its £10 more but id rather keep the car original if possible. as you say though changing the polarity isnt a big task

yes ive found it bit more expensive for positive earth ill take your advice and get one

its on Strombergs Pete

no electronic ignition but yes a lucas sports coli non ballast type i think it is

is there any advantage to widening the spark plug gap on a vit 6 from the recommended 25 i was told widening it to 35 ish for mainly short town driving is better with todays unleaded fuel ? mine tends to splutter a bit especially round town in traffic seems to run rich at low speeds at low revs its okay once its beyond 2000 revs approx

thanks for the link ill have a look i think as you say ill leave the springs on for now anyway

yes i thought about that if one of the pistons was not fully clunking down it could have been that id have to try it again the tick over was  around 900/1000 RPM with the throttle adjustment screws not really touching so i assume removing the spring did as you said and made the mixture richer so raising the revs, so in such case i would have to turn the mixture screw in to drop the revs to weaken the mixture? or is that not correct at all !!

Quick spin and I could not tell much if any difference with the springs out crept the tick over engine speed was faster by approx 200 rpm that was not responsive to slow down with the throttle screws turned back so I'm guessing taking the spring out made it richer ? Putting the springs back in lowered the tick over speed back down

ive taken the springs out interestingly the back on was an inch shorter than the front one ill see how it runs

now i am confused i thought according to the other thread from Pete it would run richer with the springs ?

So should the piston springs be in or out on these carbs on the 1600 engine ?

excuse my ignorance here im certainly no expert just learning as i go along. So when you say piston springs do you mean the big dash pot spring thats there when you take the top of the carb? if so they are fitted on both carbs and they were fitted on the original ones i replaced i assume had been on since new . should i take these springs of then and the result will be a leaner mixture. the Oil in the damper is standard 20w/50 engine oil not 3 in 1 ect ?