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hi Pete the needles are new and the correct standard ones from charles paddock for the 1600 engine. as the replacement refurbished  carbs were taken from a mk1 2 litre i was advised they would have the wrong size needles in them so i changed them. air filters are good very new although if they have been ruined by the carb flooding ?  

just tried the piston spring again to see how mine is. if you just press very quickly and let go like a stab the revs do not change they only rise if you keep your finger pushed up on the piston spring then they fall as soon as you let go is that correct?

yes your right half a turn back then i guess and i will see i have gone weaker before and your right you really notice the lack of power . there is nobody old school mechanic now in cheshire with experience setting up  these engines now. there used to be a person called max who was great but he has retired now. that said he always said set them rich  

thanks i think im slightly rich to be honest based on my colourtune and what you say if its woth messing with blindly as i am is another thing could just be worth leaving it 2/3 MPG doesnt really matter i guess

its certainly rich on short journeys i can see that by the plug colour but seems to be ok on a longer run judging by the plug colour anyway if thats anything to go by. i guess i could always screw the mixture screw upwards half a turn on each carb see if that weakens it of maybe

thanks very much again  i thought that if the engine revs increased then quickly returned to normal when pressing the spring plunger up on the piston then that was correct. thats what happens here the engine revs rise but quickly drop back when i press that plunger, they do not remain high which i allways thought was rich. ive got a colourtune also but rarely find that accurate. an old experienced now retired triumph mechanic always said to me you had to set them to run rich to allow for the lower octane fuel. when i last checked it it was doing 20 mpg round town  

no the rear one remains a mystery it leaked originally although supposedly overhauled so i replaced with a new float valve and the float from my original carb and it still flooded . neither float the original or mine was leaking. the only difference was the ear on the original float was slightly bent upwards towards the needle valve where the one i had on my original was flat. so i put the original one back in with the ear slightly bent guess that means it closes the valve sooner? so far its been ok but im waiting for the flood again on the rear one or it could have been a rubber sliver thats cleared out itself when i took the bowl of. one other question i notice on these carbs it does not need any choke at all to start it so i assume its running rich? on inspecting the plugs they are black if its short town stop start journeys but they do grey up to the correct colour when its run without stop and start all the time .

thanks for reply's all very helpful the float in the front carb turns out was leaking fuel into it even though it was working ok previously so ive replaced that with a spare i had and so far so good its all working.....i hope

thanks again ill let you know if any progress

as a matter for my interest you mention the float level affects the fuel mixture ? in which way, if the float say sat to high or nearer to the bottom of the chamber so less than 18mm but not enough to cause the valve not to close fully would that make it to rich or weak?

thanks again i think ill inspect the float chamber on the front carb as thats only leaked the once for any sign of debris that may have caused the needle valve to stick

New ones but exactly the same as the ones I took of when I replaced the needle valves

If it is the height of the float that's wrong without taking the carbs off which I'm trying to avoid doing to measure does it sound from my description of it were to be the float that the float is sitting to high or to low when I replaced the needle valve I put back on the same size washer that was on originally the medium size one if the three which came in the pack

Hi thanks again no it's the original fuel pump could be as you say dirt has got in during the change over I will try the check on the needle valves as you suggest.

Thanks for your reply I was thinking maybe some rubber slithers with taking the pipes on and off the floats look ok there does not seem to be any fuel in them . I have not touched the hieght of the float it's exactly as it was . How do you mean blow in situ into the needle valve ? Do you mean with it in my hand . Could it be worth getting 2 new floats assuming they are available. ?

anyone shed any light onto this problem i have on my 1965 vit 6. purchased 2 supposedly overhauled CD 150 carbs although they were of a mk1 2 litre car. i was assured they were the same carbs they look identical to my original ones in every aspect . they are not the emission control later ones so i put them on with a friend. i have replaced the main needles with correct vit 6 ones just to be sure as the 2 litre ones i was told were different . im told the jets are the same for both the vit 6 and 2 litre  cars have replaced both float needle valves and also swoped over the floats from my original carbs, i seem to get random flooding usually when it has been stood for a day or so overnight or just started up to move it out of the way quickly. then when i come to drive it a couple of days later after a mile or so  the carbs flood and fuel runs down from the air intake. it was mainly just the rear carb causing the problem but the front one also started to do it, when i  gave the front one a quick knock on the float chamber it seemed to be ok . other the the random flooding the car runs very well it does not flood all the time any suggestions would be welcome wish i had kept the original ones ones on

thanks pete today i have changed the coil , a new rotor from the DD expensive but that may the the cause and replaced the fuel line from the tank to the pipe it was a bit wet at the tank end and maybe sucking in air? ran it for 20 mins down a motorway all ok, im certainly not confident that's the ens of this but you never know it needs a longer run to be sure

hi pete no its a standard fan ill try this new DD rotor and maybe another coil even though the one on isnt to old do you know if the coil is a ballast type i think is the word just checking i was sold the correct one ?

Hi pete thanks for your reply all techie question for me im afraid im no expert on the carbs on this car. the pistons do drop with a clunk when you press something on the side of each carb excuse my ignorance here on what it is i press. re the barrier choke i dont know i could send you a picture? the needles were replaced by a guy called max  totally triumph in Cheshire he knew what he was doing do im assuming the correct needles are fitted it doesn't say on the invoice  which ones. he cleaned the carbs out at the same time im convinced its running rich the plugs are black and it doesn't need much choke after it has started . needs the choke to fire from cold and thats it. its an odd choke as it doesnt increase the engine revs just makes it richer to start the engine.

ill check that thanks ive got this new one now from DD the rivet is in a different place on this one. i dont think its the rotor though ive got to many of them for them all to be duffers.

they are strombergs ill check the filter housing but i dont think the gasget has fallen why do you say the delco rotors and the rivets which is much documented don't apply to ive ordered an expensive rotor from the DD to see if that makes any difference.

thats interesting thanks for that ill check the fuel line

yes they are someone said that these are no good and are breaking down. ill check whom you say but i think i did check this in the past and as mine is a delco distributor he didn't do one. i have at least half a dozen of these rotors they cannot all be faulty can they as another thing when i had the new jets fitted he same person fitted a replacement fuel pump as the original was thought to be weak but its not a vit 6 pump it had to have the pump lever arm modified to fit . its all silver with no glass dome on top . its for another triumph not sure which it was maybe a 2 litre. could this replacement pump cause over fueling,

sounds like fuel then maybe theg problem spoke to someone who rebuilds distributors as i thought that may be breaking down when its hot inside under the base plate but apparently im informed there isnt that much in there that could cause this problem. i did have the carbs re-jetted couple of year back by a triumph expert it didnt do it before then. so i wonder it does seem to use a lot of fuel i checked its MPG and it was 17 MPG which isnt good around town

not sure i can check would that cause this problem after driving say 15 miles but then having to let the engine cool down before it would re start