John Bonnett
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Everything posted by John Bonnett
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Not woithout risking damage. It is well crimped. It would have been easy to do it before the case went on but it wasn't something I considered. Doh!
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Clearly the dash needs quite a bit of remedial work but having got the instruments I felt a need to fit them and see what they look like in place. It's a shame that the needle on the bike tacho doesn't match the others but it was the cheapest and simplest option to take that route and be sure it would work with the dual coil pack. The aluminium panel will be matt black to match the rest of the dash.
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Indeed I will Roger. All very exciting. Did a dry run of the components tonight and everything fits together absolutely perfectly; a refreshing change from some of the after-market stuff with which we are so familiar.
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The final bits needed for the conversion; clutch and flywheel arrived this morning. V exciting! I've just done a bit of metal shaping. This is the taper that goes round the Monza filler cap. I'll wait until the tank is finished before welding it on just to make sure it is central with the cap.
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I've just collected my rebuilt gearbox from Dave Weedon who is the Imp equivalent of our own Mike Papworth. He fitted the new cnc machined billet bell housing which is not as straightforward as it sounds. The bell housing itself is a work of art and smacks of quality. A great tribute to the chap who programmed the machine. Rather cleverly, Clark has made adaptor plates to suit each of the three engines; K100, 1100.12000 and the bell housing is common. The flywheel and clutch should arrive tomorrow. I have also received the modified BMW exhaust manifold which is another step forward.
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It's important that the pump isn't starved of fuel during hard cornering. So there is an enclosure that will always be full. In this case it is a chamber below the main tank. That's the theory anyway Hazen.
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Yes it's not a problem. Gaz will make whatever anybody wants but for the time being I'll leave things as they are. I've just finished a template for the petrol tank which will be in stainless steel. The swirl pot is in the recess on the passenger side f the scuttle.
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Yes it's not a problem. Gaz will make whatever anybody wants but for the time being I'll leave things as they are. I've just finished a template for the petrol tank which will be in stainless steel. The swirl pot is in the recess on the passenger side f the scuttle.
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Yes it's not a problem. Gaz will make whatever anybody wants but for the time being I'll leave things as they are. I've just finished a template for the petrol tank which will be in stainless steel. The swirl pot is in the recess on the passenger side f the scuttle.
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Now that is good to know. I've not used them before but they were recommended to me for the G15 so I bought a set of four from Camskil @ twenty six pounds plus forty to have them fitted.
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Ah but only a temporary lull because very shortly I shall have all the bits needed to mate the engine to the box and the exciting stuff of installation will commence and we'll be off again. This is more a pause to regain the breath. I haven't mentioned the template for the fuel tank that I'm currently making or the bump steer checks planned for next week. 🙂
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Nick as ever, very many thanks for your thoughtful advice. No, the car does not need to run that low and by upping the ground clearance to 6.5 inches the damper is in the middle of its travel. So I've decided to do nothing until I see what it's like on the road. Similar on the caster. I really don't know whether 4 degrees will be sufficient so I'm going to put the car together without shot blasting and powder coating the chassis. If once it's on the road and the caster is okay I'll take the body off which isn't a major job and have the chassis painted. If it does need changing I can do it without ruining the powder coating. So, at the moment I have to do nothing which is rather nice 😉
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I got it from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digi-.....igipas+torpedo+level
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The G15 and I have had better days. It all started with the delivery of my new toy: a digital level like the one they use on Project Binky. The good bit of news is that both rear wheels have a similar amount of negative camber at ride height. The two bits of not such good news is that at ride height most of the damper travel is used up. The second; the chassis kick up which defines the caster angle is 4 degrees rather than the specified 6 degrees. Initially it was too much in excess of 7 degrees which did not allow the body to sit properly on the chassis. I changed it and I got it wrong. Good that I spotted it now when it can be rectified rather than finding out on the road.
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It is a journey Hazen and one I am enjoying particularly as there is no deadline and delays don't matter.
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Not a great deal of progress since the last offering but things are rolling on. I'm working on a template for the fuel tank which after a lot of deliberation will be in stainless steel. Much heavier than aluminium it's true but better for a strength and safety point of view. I spoke to Clark yesterday and he confirms that the bell housing and all the bits needed to mate the engine to the box are ready for despatch. I'm still waiting on the painter. More as it happens.
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I've arranged to phone him on Monday Roger and hope that by then he will be able to give me a date when he can have the car. John
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We now have a rolling chassis which has given me a huge psychological boost. No big deal in the scheme of things particularly as it will all have to come apart before the chassis can be painted but just seeing it on its wheels feels like a huge step forward. And I really love the MK1 Cosmics. I was amazingly lucky to find them particularly as they were made specially for the G15. And they are light like you would not believe.
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I've put the fixings in for the roll cage. I have difficulty in drilling down vertically through two inch tube so to make things a bit easier I made a simple drill guide. The fixings are M10 which fit through 1/2" O/D tube. So for the guide I pressed a short length of the tube into a piece of box section. This worked out nicely and the holes top and bottom line up pretty well. The crush tubes using the same 1/2 inch tube are now in place ready to be TIG welded in.
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With the body soon to be dispatched for painting I've had to make up a trolley so that the painter can move it from his workshop to the oven. I managed to cobble something together using materials that I found in the depths of our store room. It doesn't look pretty but at zero cost that has to be good if it does the job. With the body off the chassis I was able to offer up the roll cage jig in preparation for putting in the mountings.
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The engine cover is now ready for the painter, the lat job being to put 92mm holes in for the lamp housings and trial fit the lamps and number plate. Fortunately, I measured correctly and the spacings are acceptable.
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Wanted buying advice for a Dolomite 1850 auto
John Bonnett replied to poppyman's topic in Triumph Chat
The car on Ebay has been withdrawn.- 10 replies
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Wanted buying advice for a Dolomite 1850 auto
John Bonnett replied to poppyman's topic in Triumph Chat
Nick, this is all a bit worrying. I might have to re-think my next car.- 10 replies
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Wanted buying advice for a Dolomite 1850 auto
John Bonnett replied to poppyman's topic in Triumph Chat
Is this the one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2527.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Well worth having a look at. 3 owners and under 30k miles. I have always liked the 1850 Dolomite. My father had two of them one after the other and I was so impressed with them and thought what fantastic cars they were. And I still think that. I doubt there was much at that time that could compete with them in terms of their very well appointed and comfortable interior, handling and performance. My brother had a Dolomite Sprint at about the same time; early 80s and to be honest, I was disappointed with its performance and still preferred the 1850. It could be my next car. But not this one. I'll not bid against you 😉- 10 replies
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