cbjroms
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Thanks guys, I now understand. By the way, couldn't copy old as I chucked it away when I stripped the car. Chris
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Thanks guys, I now understand. By the way, couldn't copy old as I chucked it away when I stripped the car. Chris
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Just to make sure that I am on the right track, I have taken a photo of a single and double flare that I have just made. Is the (single) flare on the left the bubble flare that I should be using with the male connectors? Thanks Chris
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Thanks Bill, So a bubble flare is the same as a single flare? Chris
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Thanks again everyone, So I have stupidly made double flares where I should have made bubbles. Never thought to check before I started! Looking around the internet there are many claims/videos suggesting that bubble flares can be made with a double flare tool. Given that we are talking about safety critical items here I don't want to do anything (else!) stupid. So is a bubble flaring tool very different to a double flaring tool? Chris
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Thanks everyone, How can I find out which are singles and which 'bubbles'? Chris
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Thanks Alec, Should they not all be double flares? Chris
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I have replaced all of the copper brake pipes on my 13/60 using a Snap On flaring tool to make the 45 degree double flares. I did all the connections up with a spanner and was careful not to over-tighten. Having filled the reservoir and pumped the pedal a few times I notice that the joints to the rubber hoses at front/rear and into the master cylinder are all nice and dry. But most of the joints into the multiple connectors (4 way at front and 3 at rear) were leaking fluid. So I have tightened these a couple of times but don't want to strip the threads. My question is how tight should the male unions be tightened into the multiple connectors? Is there something wrong with the flares if they leak at hand-tight + 180 degrees or should I pull on the spanner as hard as I can? Thanks Chris
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Thanks you
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Just rebuilding my 13/60 and have replaced the clutch and brake hydraulics. How much fluid will I need to refill both systems? Thanks Chris
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Can someone tell me how to get the old rubber mounts off the tail end of the gearbox? I presume that they have a threaded end which screws into the gearbox casing but can get them to move. Thanks Chris
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I have just replaced the engine in my 13/60 and before connecting fuel and electrical system thought I would just try turning it over on the starter motor. So using jump leads to connect a spare (leisure) battery that I have handy direct to the starter motor. With plugs in place the engine turns-over very, very slowly. The battery is fully charged. So does this indicate a starter motor problem? Or is it just that I am dropping excessive voltage through the jump leads? Chris
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Just putting my 13/60 back together and cannot find anything in the Haynes that describes the various earth connections that should be in place. For instance, to where should the battery earth be connected? There is a metal strap which, if I recall, connects to one of the sump studs and then to the ? Can anyone remind me please? Thanks Chris
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Yes, thats the rod and I can see how it goes together now. Think I know where the bracket is but not sure about the nipple end for the throttle cable! Thanks Chris
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Thanks Zendervision, My carb seems to have some sort of rod hanging off the throttle linkage? Chris
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I am trying to refit the Stromberg CD150 carburettor to my 13/60 engine and cannot work-out how the thottle and choke cables are fitted. I think there must be some brackets for the manifold that I need to put into place first? I would be really gratefull if someone could post a picture of their carb in position and connected up so that I can see what I need to do. Thanks Chris