307e
-
Posts
27 -
Joined
-
Last visited
307e's Achievements
-
Thanks for the replies - seeing how they are fitted helped tremendously. Cheers, Steve.
-
Got a set of these to fit........ how do they fit? Anyone got a photo of them fitted (both inside and outside of bonnet). I guess they are supposed to stop the catches going outwards; but....well I don't know TBH!! Any help please!! Cheers, Steve.
-
Done the conversion to 18ACR with little problems. Thanks for the advice everyone!! Just for reference, the original belt tensioner can be used if you grind about 2mm off the underside of the slotted curved section. The tensioner then needs a 'joddle' to allow the top mount on the alternator to line up. The joddle or step has to be about 10mm. The front lower mount is a shortened original and the rear a long bolt and tube. The belt that fits best is the Spitfire 1300 MKIV part no:- GVB 11050. (1050mm length). Hope that helps someone!! Cheers Steve.
-
Thanks for the replies!! I was looking at a 45amp unit as the dynamo has an output of 22A but only in a certain rev band, so it appears from the replies that the 45A alternator should be man enough. I now need another large wire for the solenoid switch to alternator link (the other large tag); any suggestions where to get some or what rating of wire is required. Are there any moderns that run 18ACR units or at least the same plug configuration? The scrapyards round here are run like supermarkets and everything is 'off the shelf' with very limited access to the cars in the yard. So it pays to need something off a modern as a passport because "Triumph" would get a "No mate" without a second thought. Any help please!! Steve.
-
Dynamo died..... so alternator conversion time! Herald 12/50 1967 with a 13/60 engine. The battery is a Lucas 36aH and is new. Car will have halogen headlights, Lucas 6" period driving lamps and ICE over standard. I have seen 45, 55 and 65aH units for sale, so the question is, which one is best for this car? My first reaction was "highest output is best", but I would like to see what others thought.......... Making new brackets is not really a problem but can the original drive belt be used? Any help and opinions please!!! Cheers, Steve.
-
Thanks Alan - but the wheel arch seems to get less pronounced as it nears the 'D' plate area.....is that right? Or does it stay the same profile right around the arch ie:- width and depth? Cheers, Steve.
-
Just finished reconstructing the lower front sections of the wheel arches and corners from new metal around new "D" plates at the front of the bonnet. Now I need to put the final shape to the wheel arch pressing....but I can't seem to find a definitive picture of one - that is to say an original wheel arch or wing panel. What I need to know (or see) is what the raised pressing line of the wheel arch should be like; does the same dimension of that pressing continue right to the front edge of the bonnet (where the valance meets it) or does it become less pronounced or fade to nothing above the valance? Lots of conflicting pictures with varying angles on Google images and with just a line diagram on Rimmers et al - it's very difficult to decide what is "right". Any help on this? Even a close up photo of the front quarter of a "correct" wheel arch would do....thanks!! Steve.
-
Trying to get the Gunson's eezibleed universal cap adapter to fit and seal today has practically put me in the nuthouse!!! Anyone got a spare plastic cap for a 12/50 Girling disc brake master cylinder? I can then adapt it to work with the Eezibleed. The Girling aluminum ones do not seem to fit - the thread seems to be more shallow that the plastic version. The master cylinder is the type with the plastic reservoir. They don't seem to sell the caps separately though. Or your thoughts if I'm doing something wrong....... Thanks!! Steve.
-
Thanks very much for all the replies - fitting it through the old outer was nigh on impossible. Off to do it now!!! Yeh!! Cheers, Steve.
-
Just removed the spring eye bushes (rubber originals) to replace with polybushes. Do you have to remove the outside metal tube of the old rubber bush or is the poly pushed into the tube already there; we tried and it is very tight. Thanks, Steve
-
Right....pretty sure that all the calipers I have are type 14's. Looking at the hubs, there is a ridge in the "slope" up to the outer edge of the hub that bolts to the road wheel. It is not machined smooth nor are any of the hubs I have and our 12/50 and the other front disc set ups are complete and not been dismantled. They actually look identical. I think I'll just go for a type 14 and hope!! Thanks for the replies; cheers for the help especially the "2 bolts or four bolts" pointer. Steve.
-
Now on to the brakes of the 1967 Herald 12/50 and I am needing a replacement offside caliper as it is seriously ill. So I looked up the 12/50 and it shows it is fitted with type 12 calipers. Rimmers and Canleys say that the type 12's were fitted but no dust shields; the type 14's were fitted with the dust shields for 1967 onwards for the Herald 13/60. OK....ours has dust shields fitted and I have compared the calipers on the car with a 13/60 set I was given and I'm really struggling to see the difference, TBH. I also have a set of calipers believed to be Spitfire but I have yet to compare those. I have tried the pads in both calipers and they fit each other. Could the car be fitted with type 14's from the factory? Very confusing!! What are the differences shape / size / appearance of type 12's in relation to type 14's? Is it possible to tell them apart because both calipers seem to fit the vertical links and line up with the path of the disc. I am happy to buy replacements but it helps if I can actually know what this car is fitted with. Thanks, Steve.
-
Try these - www.bandedsteels.com - good feedback on the VW T4 forums and Ford sites. They will make any size you want, but seeing as the dish usually goes outward the Herald arches are somewhat restrictive and that could be your limiting factor. On the other hand , the genuine article 5.5J Dunlops look beautiful but can be costly and often the rims are bent. HTH, Steve.
-
The 'old Ford' method worked every time. Needs two people. Position the car with a decent straight distance in front of it. Brakes must be good. Jack the car up on a trolley jack until the rear wheels just clear the ground. One person sits in the drivers seat, starts the engine with the clutch depressed and 2nd gear engaged. Gently raise the engine speed to about 1500 revs. On cue quickly turn off the ignition as the other drops the jack and the clutch will free instantly. Always worked..............(dance) Steve.
-
They used to be over many car seats in the past - tight fitting quite thick clear plastic seat covers. When I had some in an Anglia 105E they were faded, yellowing..... but keeping the seats clean and protected. The seats in the Herald are pristine and it would be nice to keep them that way. Are they still available and how much to pay against new seat upholstery? Thanks, Steve.