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WIMPUS

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Posts posted by WIMPUS

  1. hello,

    I've bought a twin silencer exhaust a few month's back .. now here it the problem ,

    How to fit the 2 silencer's at the back ??

    Does anyone has some photo's where i can see where you mounted to?  :)
    I've just test fitted it yesterday  ;)

    kind regards Wim

  2. I have don it  ;)

    but i needed the take the spring back off .. that was the easy way is think ..

    Now it was difficult to get the bolt in and we had a vice but no.. after 30 min  it was in !  ;D

    I'm glad it's ok now , i think it is a little bit lower  ;)

    Thanks for the great help !  ;)

    Kind regards Wim

  3. Nick_Moore wrote:
    Ok, so the input threads on the PDWA are the Sam, but the front circuit's output thread is larger?

    I was actually referring to the internal cylinder diameters in the master cylinder. Different diameters would mean different amounts of force being applied to the different circuits. I'm not about to strip mine down to check!

    By American friends, I mean that the English cars had single circuit brakes and therefore no PDWA. The American cars did have tandem brakes, so their owners have had to fight this battle before.


    my master cilinder has rebuild by a mate his father .. so .. i don't know about it  :-/
    the english had single line but round about 1980 it was tandem ( i read it somewhere)
    Al the export (i think ) was tandem, i know al belgium cars where tandem line so ..
    The european tandem and american tandem are not the same i have seen .. but the same pdwa :P

  4. Nick_Moore wrote:
    Yes, I see the problem. If both cylinders in the tandem master cylinder are the same diameter then it shouldn't be a problem, as both will produce the same amount of braking force. But I don't know if the two are the same diameter. Have you contacted Canley Classics?

    Otherwise, I think we're going to need our American friends' help. Guys?


    just on the pwda there is a different diameter .. at the master cilinder there is 2 3/8 and at the pwda there is a 3/8 for the back and a bigger one for the front ..

    I can bend the new pipes into the 2 places at the master cilinder ,not so tidy then but it works maybe then  :P

    i hope you  understaind it  :o

    and american friends ??  mine is not american  :P ;)

  5. 4526 wrote:
    here is my problem .. no 1 (pwda valve) goes to no 1 at the master cilinder (original at my spit)

    But at the haynes it says otherwise .. and at the way my canley's kit is made its also like the haynes ..

    Is it a problem if you mix there ? like 1(pwda) to no 2 (master cilinder) ??  :-/

    i hope to get an answer  :P

    Kind regards Wim


  6. here is my problem .. no 1 (pwda valve) goes to no 1 at the master cilinder (original at my spit)

    But at the haynes it says otherwise .. and at the way my canley's kit is made its also like the haynes ..

    Is it a problem if you mix there ? like 1(pwda) to no 2 (master cilinder) ??  :-/

    i hope to get an answer  :P

    Kind regards Wim

  7. 4526 wrote:
    In my haynes manual ( also a photo of earlier in the tread) it shows that the brake line for the front brakes must run from the pwda valve to the master cilinder and must me at the front connection , but as i take my old brake line's the pipe that runs from the valve is original conectet at the back connection( close to the window)  :-/

    the pipe's in the kit are also make like the drawing in haynes .. :o

    Kind regards Wim


    Anyone??  :-/

  8. In my haynes manual ( also a photo of earlier in the tread) it shows that the brake line for the front brakes must run from the pwda valve to the master cilinder and must me at the front connection , but as i take my old brake line's the pipe that runs from the valve is original conectet at the back connection( close to the window)  :-/

    the pipe's in the kit are also make like the drawing in haynes .. :o

    Kind regards Wim

  9. 4058 wrote:
    Hey Wim,

    Sounds like you have been busy with your spitty, until your neck started to hurt! (I know how you feel, I have 2 herniated discs, go to chiro once a month, so it's getting better)

    Minis, reminds me when I was a teen, had so many of them! That's another story!  ;)

    Cheers
    Shaun


    hi shaun,

    I have not been busy the last two weeks on my spit , yesterday i was going to take a look at it after a week or two .. (Spit stands at my uncle's place  :P there we have a garage for two cars for the restoration).

    At home my brothers Pilgrim Sumo ( AC Cobra replica) stand in the garage (unfinised)  :-/ , and outside an orange Raw Striker (Lotus Super seven replica) With toyota 1600 20 Valve (170pk)  ;D
    So we have a weekness for british cars  :P my uncle has had in the 70 and 80's a triumph TR6 And an MK2000 Saloon  ;D

    Kind regards Wim

  10. 4058 wrote:
    and now i begin the bonnet!

    its not easy trying to lift it and fit it on your own!   ;D


    Hi shaun,

    Nice to see the progress , i dint do very much the last weeks .
    helped a friend with a vw beetle (Yellow SunBug from Mexico  1983)  :o

    my mechanic's a nearly done , just need to put the rocker cover back on , the exhaust , carb's ..
    Just put some new underseal  on my front wheel arches , we've got massive work to do on the wheel arches of the bonnet so .. sand the car and co .. now i want is just good weather .. so i can prep it for paint  :P but we've got a long way to go ..
    I've been sick also, my neck was blocked 2weeks ago ..
    New brake and fuel lines  are in place  ;)
    So... i hope to see your spitfire some day   ;)
    And also i ex- teacher off mine has a mini from 1989 , he did come over to look al my spit last weekend  ;)

    Kind regards Wim

  11. 3182 wrote:
    That should fully depend on how the spacer tube sits in the bracket compared to the holes and if there is space enough to get the bolt in. Only thing you can do is to see if it fits but I would think it requires the spring to come off :( I struggled to get my bolt in even when the spring was in a vice!

    Good luck and keep us posted!


    will do !  ;)

    Wim

  12. smithy wrote:
    Wimpus.
    Oh dear.
    That bolt through the retaining plate should be there, and is very difficult to get at with the spring bolted in.
    If you take the four nuts off the studs then jack up both sides of the rear suspension you may be able to leave the spring on the studs and still be able to get at it through the inspection panel.
    Maybe.
    Be careful of lifting the car on the spring under the bodywork.....

    We've all been there!



    OK .. i will look at i this weekend ..
    I can neerly put the bolt in it .. but just not .. :o
    So i best do not take the studs off .. just loosen them a bit ?

    The studs was also a great job to put them in .. after an hour !  :o and then a seen that i was missing a bolt ..  :(

    but yeah, i will tray it .. otherwise , the spring must go out again .. it's actually not a great job to do .. but on my own .; :-/ :P

    Kind regards, thanks for the help already and i will be posting photo's when the bolt is in place  ;D !

    Wim

  13. 4526 wrote:
    I just got 1 problem .. the top mounting plate , there is a hole at the side  for a bolt ( inbetween the leaf's, true a spacer ..)

    spacer sits there , but i can't get the bolt in place  :o

    Do i need to take the leaf spring back of the car ?  :-/ (I hope not!)

    kind regards Wim


    You see the 4 studs from the bottom , to hold the leaf spring ..

    But than the bolt across .. on the side , thats go's inbetween the leaf and true a spacer .. that bolt i don't get it in :o ...
    Is it possible to get it in when the spring is already installed  :-/

    Ps. the photo is from the old leaf spring ..
    Kind regards Wim

  14. I just got 1 problem .. the top mounting plate , there is a hole at the side  for a bolt ( inbetween the leaf's, true a spacer ..)

    spacer sits there , but i can't get the bolt in place  :o

    Do i need to take the leaf spring back of the car ?  :-/ (I hope not!)

    kind regards Wim

  15. Thanks for the advice already !

    i'm new to triumph's and to car's actually (restoring it)
    i have this from june 2011 and i'm restoring it ever since  :o ;)

    Ok , i didn't do anything to it for months   :)
    Now i need to get the play of the front wheels next week or so and all he mechanic's are done , just for the exhaust  ;D and some other bits   ;)

    Kind regards Wim , Belgium

  16. bobyspit wrote:
    It will drop when you get the rest of the car sorted. Seats fuel tank and a good drive will settle it at the correct level.

    Rob


    ok thanks for the advice :d my uncle (70kg) sat in the boot today to simulate the fuel tank  ;D
    I have a new leaf spring and spax shock's

  17. hello ,

    I've ordert recently a brake pipe kit from canley's ..

    On the pwda valve you have a 3/8  and a bigger hole .. , but the bigger is for the front brakes (normally)..

    Now when i want to connect the pwda to the brake master there is a problem ..

    on the brake master the front brake pipe should be the closets to you and for the back the further's away .. is that correct ??  :o :-/

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