Bugsy27

Hey cool thanks for that. Had me totally confused as first Triumph motor Ive come across with it. So I guess Chris Witor will have gaskets for it?

Yes the tops of the pistons come flush with the block

Ive just picked up an old 2500 motor which I thought was a junker, to rebuild as a bit of a Performance motor for my old girl, and I think ive had a huge score but something puzzles me. I got a late 2500 motor, cant tell engine number as block has been decked level with piston tops, Running a casting number 313427 cylinder head, but stamped with 219016, running double valve springs. Head has been milled I think to 3.450. Cam is a early PI, so all good so far, But and its a big BUT, the tops of the bores look like they have had an extra sealing ring or something done. There is a slight stepdown on the block surface of about 1mm and about 2mm wide all around the tops of the bores. I guess its some sort of extra sealing but just wondering what sort of gasket I would need for her now. Ive never seen this on an older motor before.

Im in Invercargill, and nope my puller doesnt distort the flange. If you want 1 done PM me and I'll send you details. Cheers

Yeah it surprised the hell out of me too, but it was a specialist bearing place and the owner was a classic car nut and has shit loads of unusual stock floating around. I was sure i would have to be importing parts. But he had 2 complete kits on the shelf. Cost surprised me as well only $58 NZd, ( about 25 quid ) for a kit.

Well yesterday, I had my TC2500 in for its 6 monthly WOF inspection and its was failed on a rumbly back wheel bearing....BUGGER, so after reading all I could about it, and how big a s**t of a job it was, and how you needed special tools end equiptment. I was totally dreading this, but the cost of a recon'ed one here was more than I paid for the car. So I done what any red-blooded kiwi would do...I ripped open a tinnie and thought about it some more. Hell its gotta be done so I attacked it, pulled the half shaft and hub out this morning, headed off to my local bearing wholesaler and picked up a kit, then proceeded to skin almost all my knuckles trying to get the bloody thing apart. Actually it was a lot easier than I thought. From my engineering days  I had a large hydraulic bearing puller and that made the job a breeze. Total time from start to finish including 45 mins to pickup bearing kit was under 3 hours, and that included making a spanner for the adjusting nut. Still its not a job for someone with limited mechanical experience and budget tools, I've got a workshop setup that would make most garages envious. So anyone downunder that wants a hand with 1, just sing out.

Theres some lowlifes around. It just working out the adapter plate dimensions, thickness, whether flywhell needs spaced back, how my starter position will be affected sort of sfuff I need. Any input will help. If I cant fit this without 2 much work the next option is fitting a SC14 Supercharger to the existing trumpy motor. would sound awesum, but not sure how well it would last.

I have a nice near stock SD1 rover 3500 I would like to fit to my TC2500, but I want to retain my Triumph 4 speed + o/d gearbox. I have used the search option and found some ideas but most of the stuff Ive found either involves using the Stag gearbox, or the Rover LT77. As Im located in NZ sourcing parts can be a hassle, so want to use as much as I can of the original equiptment I have no problems with mounts etc, but would like to get some ideas on what needs to be done for an adapter plate. I will be running a SD1 flywheel, so any ideas on clutch etc would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has done one and has some pics floating around or better still an adapter plate tucked away in the shed that they want to part with i would be most gratefull. I thought some of you stag guys may have been thru this conversion and may be able to guide me right. Cheers

Thanks for that guys, They certainly have a funny feel to them, if you insert your finger into the air filter end and lift the diphram you can feel a nice steady resistance to upward pressure ubto the slide gets about halfway, the the diaphram seems to "overcenrte" is self and the the slide shoots up to fully open. Ive ordered 2 new ones from the UK so see what happens with these. Thanks for input

Thanks have checked the alignment, loosened the screws on the top and problem still there, I'm pretty sure its the new rubbers at fault, they seem very thick compared to the original.

Ive just recently picked up a 73 TC2500 fitted with CD150's. While giveing her a going over I found that 1 carb diaphram rubber was torn, so thru a local parts supplier I bought 2 new rubbers to replace them at the same time, but I found the rubbers to be 2 stiff, as after setting every thing up, if I lift the slide up to near the top the rubber inverts itself and the light spring tension wont push the slide back down. The slides move smoothly in the body and top so there is nothhing there causing the problems, so just wondering if anyone had a "good" source of carb parts or have any other ideas on how to solve it.