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Olip100

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  1. Thanks everyone. Really helpful.  I've dropped both an email so hopefully can move forward with this!  
  2. I can't say for certain. I don't have any of the initial paperwork only as far as early 70's. The VIN doesn't have an O which I think would indicate factory overdrive so that would suggest not. The engine itself has been replaced at some point - the number is ME - so Triumph 2000 saloon. I wouldn't expect that makes a difference. That's the unit below. Though I know you said the casing is identical.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/UHKZmo4dhtNNBqLx5   
  3. Thanks for the heads up. Looks like this is going to be challenge. Do you know if modifications would have been necessary to have put in the 1600 gearbox into my Mk1 2 Litre? Flywheel, propshaft ect. Just occured to me if is that is the case then only a 1600 gearbox will now fit. That would limit me to getting the current gearbox rebuilt essentially.  
  4. Thanks for the heads up. Looks like this is going to be challenge. Do you know if modifications would have been necessary to have put in the 1600 gearbox into my Mk1 2 Litre? Flywheel, propshaft ect. Just occured to me if is that is the case then only a 1600 gearbox will now fit. That would limit me to getting the current gearbox rebuilt essentially.  
  5. I don't do huge trips in it, and it won't get much use in the winter so likely in the low to mid thousands of miles.  Yeah first gear is.. interesting. Barely get the wheels rolling before going into 2nd. But it's alright when used to it. I didn't mind until a few weeks ago when it started making rather and very alarming clunking/rattling noise. I'm going to try and (hopefully) find at local gearbox rebuilder who I can trust with classic boxes and get some quotes. I've seen a GT6 O/D box for £560 online if I go down the replace route.  
  6. Very helpful thank you! My next question would have been about it being restampted so that's useful to know.  That makes sense because there is no synchromesh on 1st gear but I had previously that down to the poor condition of my first gear which doesn't have much life left Reason for asking about the gearbox number is that I'm trying to work out what's best, to have it rebuilt or find another unit. I understand the 1600 gearbox is a lot weaker, especially for the 2 Litre - it looks like having it rebuilt might be a false economy, so a more appropriate replacement is needed.  
  7. https://photos.app.goo.gl/eC1Kkg2pAyDrnUve7     
  8. Hello! Hoping someone with a knowledge of gearbox numbers can help.  The below photo is of the identification number on the o/d gearbox in my Vitesse mk1 2 litre. As far as I know, I expected to see HC, or at least KC if at some point it had been replaced with a GT6 unit. So I'm really confused because it looks like.. maybe CR...if I squint. Any thoughts what this gearbox is/where it came from? Thanks, Oli    
  9. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Interesting point from Keith about checking the car when laden. I'll give that a go at the weekend and take some more photos.  Given that no one is saying: your camber is all wrong, something must be busted. I'm feeling ok with it.  Cheers
  10. Thanks, that makes sense! For now I'll just link photos in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HJbV2k112gwy57py8  Basically it hasn't been jacked. I had just been driving it. To my knowledge the springs are not new - in fact the rear rides pretty low anyway. Because of this I have assumed the springs are sagging. If I lower the suspension, the exhaust will begin to catch random debris.
  11. Can you see the images I've posted? For some reason I can't see anything I post? Can't tell whether the photos uploaded correctly
  12. Hello all, Hopefully just a quick question. Checking out the rear of the Mk1 Vitesse the other day I noticed the camber on the rear wheels. I've heard that early Triumphs had a slight positive camber but to me this seems excessive. It's worth saying that it steers straight and the tyres wear looks ok. But thought I'd ask the forum whether this is normal? Cheers, Oli
  13. Thanks guys. Exactly right about voltage stabiliser. Curiously there wasn't one fitted at all! Furthermore I'm now fairly sure that the fuel gauge is definitely a non-stabilised gauge. Readings are accurate without stabiliser (full is full and it runs all the way down to empty when the tank is down to nearly fumes). The needle “jumps” off the empty position when the ignition is switched on, as opposed to my temperature gauge which gradually sweeps across - from what I've read that the difference in operation between stabilised and non stabilised. If the fuel gauge is original then it explains why no stabiliser is fitted to the back of the speedo from the factory. I think the matching original temp gauge must have been replaced with the later stabilised temp gauge. Frustrating as the gauges are otherwise identical. Anyway. I've wired in the stabiliser just to the temp gauge and it reads perfectly in the centre when warmed up, and I've learnt a few lessons about these old gauges along the way!      
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