Jump to content

Olip100

Non-Member
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by Olip100

  1. Thanks everyone. Really helpful.  I've dropped both an email so hopefully can move forward with this!  
  2. I can't say for certain. I don't have any of the initial paperwork only as far as early 70's. The VIN doesn't have an O which I think would indicate factory overdrive so that would suggest not. The engine itself has been replaced at some point - the number is ME - so Triumph 2000 saloon. I wouldn't expect that makes a difference. That's the unit below. Though I know you said the casing is identical.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/UHKZmo4dhtNNBqLx5   
  3. Thanks for the heads up. Looks like this is going to be challenge. Do you know if modifications would have been necessary to have put in the 1600 gearbox into my Mk1 2 Litre? Flywheel, propshaft ect. Just occured to me if is that is the case then only a 1600 gearbox will now fit. That would limit me to getting the current gearbox rebuilt essentially.  
  4. Thanks for the heads up. Looks like this is going to be challenge. Do you know if modifications would have been necessary to have put in the 1600 gearbox into my Mk1 2 Litre? Flywheel, propshaft ect. Just occured to me if is that is the case then only a 1600 gearbox will now fit. That would limit me to getting the current gearbox rebuilt essentially.  
  5. I don't do huge trips in it, and it won't get much use in the winter so likely in the low to mid thousands of miles.  Yeah first gear is.. interesting. Barely get the wheels rolling before going into 2nd. But it's alright when used to it. I didn't mind until a few weeks ago when it started making rather and very alarming clunking/rattling noise. I'm going to try and (hopefully) find at local gearbox rebuilder who I can trust with classic boxes and get some quotes. I've seen a GT6 O/D box for £560 online if I go down the replace route.  
  6. Very helpful thank you! My next question would have been about it being restampted so that's useful to know.  That makes sense because there is no synchromesh on 1st gear but I had previously that down to the poor condition of my first gear which doesn't have much life left Reason for asking about the gearbox number is that I'm trying to work out what's best, to have it rebuilt or find another unit. I understand the 1600 gearbox is a lot weaker, especially for the 2 Litre - it looks like having it rebuilt might be a false economy, so a more appropriate replacement is needed.  
  7. https://photos.app.goo.gl/eC1Kkg2pAyDrnUve7     
  8. Hello! Hoping someone with a knowledge of gearbox numbers can help.  The below photo is of the identification number on the o/d gearbox in my Vitesse mk1 2 litre. As far as I know, I expected to see HC, or at least KC if at some point it had been replaced with a GT6 unit. So I'm really confused because it looks like.. maybe CR...if I squint. Any thoughts what this gearbox is/where it came from? Thanks, Oli    
  9. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Interesting point from Keith about checking the car when laden. I'll give that a go at the weekend and take some more photos.  Given that no one is saying: your camber is all wrong, something must be busted. I'm feeling ok with it.  Cheers
  10. Thanks, that makes sense! For now I'll just link photos in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HJbV2k112gwy57py8  Basically it hasn't been jacked. I had just been driving it. To my knowledge the springs are not new - in fact the rear rides pretty low anyway. Because of this I have assumed the springs are sagging. If I lower the suspension, the exhaust will begin to catch random debris.
  11. Can you see the images I've posted? For some reason I can't see anything I post? Can't tell whether the photos uploaded correctly
  12. Hello all, Hopefully just a quick question. Checking out the rear of the Mk1 Vitesse the other day I noticed the camber on the rear wheels. I've heard that early Triumphs had a slight positive camber but to me this seems excessive. It's worth saying that it steers straight and the tyres wear looks ok. But thought I'd ask the forum whether this is normal? Cheers, Oli
  13. Thanks guys. Exactly right about voltage stabiliser. Curiously there wasn't one fitted at all! Furthermore I'm now fairly sure that the fuel gauge is definitely a non-stabilised gauge. Readings are accurate without stabiliser (full is full and it runs all the way down to empty when the tank is down to nearly fumes). The needle “jumps” off the empty position when the ignition is switched on, as opposed to my temperature gauge which gradually sweeps across - from what I've read that the difference in operation between stabilised and non stabilised. If the fuel gauge is original then it explains why no stabiliser is fitted to the back of the speedo from the factory. I think the matching original temp gauge must have been replaced with the later stabilised temp gauge. Frustrating as the gauges are otherwise identical. Anyway. I've wired in the stabiliser just to the temp gauge and it reads perfectly in the centre when warmed up, and I've learnt a few lessons about these old gauges along the way!      
  14. Great. Thanks for the tips. I'll have to check the rear of the Speedo. I don't know why, but I thought only the Smiths gauges ran a 10V supply and voltage stabiliser. Being an early Vitesse with Jaeger gauges I'd assumed they run on 12V and therefore don't have a stabiliser. Don't know where I heard that from, so I must be mistaken. As for the sender unit it's got GTR108. I'm not really sure how to check it's the correct one for the gauge!? Any ideas. Cheers
  15. Hello everyone I've been troubleshooting a potential overheating problem with my Mk1 Vitesse. Hoping I can borrow your expertise. From a cold start, the temp gauge (Jaeger) climbs fairly rapidly to hot, almost the whole way. I was worried at first but the engine didn't seem catastrophically hot as the gauge would suggest. Hot, sure! but not boiling hot. Anyway I picked up an inferred thermometer to check the whole cooling system. The car was probably running for over half an hour as I did this, so I'm certain the hoses and thermostat housing had got up to temp. (I'm not paying too much attention to the exhaust side of the block but recorded it anyway).  Thermostat - 83-85C Upper hose - 60C Radiator core (top) - 80C Radiator core (bottom) - 55-60C Lower hose - 55C Block (exhaust side) - 90C  Block (distributor side) 75C In your experience, what's an acceptable running temperature? I've heard that the cooling system on the 2l Vitesse was pretty much borderline when leaving the factory, so my results don't alarm me too much but interested what you guys think? FYI- Stock cooling, mechanical fan, new thermostat and water pump. Recently flushed and replaced coolant. Thanks guys, Oli
  16. Thanks. Took your suggestion and unplugged the oil light sensor. Low and behold the ignition light went out. At some point they had been swapped. So obvious - hindsight is a wonderful thing. Looks like the dynamo is on the way out then...   On another note, are you still running a dynamo on your Vitesse? If the mine dies I think I'll have to weigh up alternator conversion perhaps.
  17. Thank you, that's helpful. I actually hadn't considered that it might be that oil warning and ignition had been swapped round. I'll test this tonight and see if deactivating the dynamo turns on the oil pressure light! If so problem solved (well at least troubleshooted).   
  18. Hello everyone. New to the forum, apologies if this is the wrong place. My oil pressure warning light comes on when I drop down to idle.. but my oil pressure gauge reads 50 psi!!! (at cold start/less when warm). Any ideas? Things I've narrowed down so far: I trust the oil pressure gauge reading. It's a brand new electric gauge (just fitted). The mechanical gauge it replaced also read 50psi - so reasonably confident. I've replaced the oil warning sensor. They are cheapish and thought it would resolve the issue but has not. Both the warning light sensor and the pressure gauge sensor are connected to the same T piece in the engine block. The only thing left I can think of it wiring between the oil warning light and the sensor.. however surely if there was a break or poor connection the light would not light whatsoever..??  Appreciate any help troubleshooting. By all means point out anything obvious I've not considered! Thanks, Oli
×
×
  • Create New...