standardthread

On 06/09/2023 at 04:46, Timothy Harwood said:

Also where is the best place to get a new exhaust as it has seen better days and can you get a tubular manifold like they do for the spitfire.

 

 

Make your own exhaust, I did out of S/S for my Dolomite.

If you want details of supplier and how to do it message me.

Probably BSP. I replaced mine with a sensor for an electric fan.

I wasn’t happy with the heavy twin silencer circuitous nature of the exhaust on my Dolomite so I decided to revert to the system that was used as first built on the marque, and common with a lot of other Triumphs and Standards, a straight through single silencer system. Amongst other things this needed an additional exhaust mount, in my case, under the rear off-side passenger seat.

It is easier to create a flat piece of metal from a curved strip than it is to create a round section, especially of small diameter. When I first altered the exhaust I was reasonably successful in making a couple of curved brackets out of flat sheet to match the curves in the rubber mounts, but I was never totally happy with the result.

I had to order some new bushes, and, looking at them over a cup of coffee I realised that the slots in the rubbers perfectly matched the curve of metal electrical conduit.

Conclusion. I split a length of conduit along its length, created a lip on one end and flattened the other end and drilled a bolt hole in it.

Result. Two very strong rigid mounts that can be tailored to other locations, with little effort making them.

Thanks for the tips, I was pondering how to keep the cover off the car body.

Wendy, just had a detailed look at your original post. The company are genuine, they have been around for about 50 years, are 4 miles from me, and I have purchased items from their shop in in the past before I moved. They were in to motorsports then.

On 08/08/2023 at 11:18, Rosbif said:

 

 Try Google with the make of the cover 'Coverek' and see what you get.

Thanks Rosbif. I tried a search and the prices came up at nearly twice the price from France!

Based on the spec of your cover I looked on ebay and found these;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203636580252

It arrived today. The 'plastic' is heavy duty, soft, flexible and lined. Complete with straps for the wheels and across the car.

I trial fitted it to the car, time will tell if it does the job but it appears more robust than the cheap thin plastic ones around.

Thanks again.

This is why I suspect the covers could be refurbished.

On the left is a new cover, the cover on the right has a ridge running around the ends of the fingers.

3 hours ago, Wendy Dawes said:

I doubt it, , it is marketed as a high performance rally clutch so it will appear different to a normal clutch. anyway no one has to buy anything they’re not sure about it’s just an option to consider. 

we all try to help each other when possible, it’s the right thing to do as our cars become harder to get parts for.  It’s Not a compulsory purchase 

Hi Wendy. I wasn't having a go at you, I was just going by the look of the cover plate and we are all told to beware of sharks. Everyone does their best to help if they can.

3 hours ago, Wendy Dawes said:

I found this on eBay It is 165mm as I’ve already asked the seller, it is a competition/rally clutch but it will fit our hard to find drivetrain parts 

Looks like a refurbished unit given the wear/recess on the ends of the fingers on the cover plate? Given the price and the rarity of 1300 Dolomite clutches is someone taking advantage?

23 minutes ago, glang said:

Your old friction plate looks unusual in that its got rivets just inside the inner diameter of the friction material so making it unable to lay flat against the new pressure plate. Normally having a difference in these diameters wouldnt matter as long as all the friction material is covered by the pressure plate so perhaps you need a new friction plate as well.

Note of caution. The pressure plate that exploded on me was, along with the cover plate a refirb. fitted by the previous owner. When I fitted the new driven plate to the old cover plate the clutch wouldn't engage, possibly because of the reason glang has given over rivets.

That cover plate is now scrap.

Differences in diameter, to give the garage mechanic some leeway to source driven plates?

Thanks for the link. It gives me some idea of the structure to look for.  I think to order from France with carriage and taxes would push the price through the roof.

5 hours ago, rog1300 said:

ok - so: keeping my existing clutch plate as it is pretty clean and is not really worn, but changing the cover plate via the helpful souls at Canley classics for a GCC197. Fingers crossed all should be good soon!

Any oil contamination on the driven plate wash it with carbon tetrachloride (if you can get it) or another volatile solvent.

15 hours ago, rog1300 said:

oh dear expensive! how about a flywheel change? 

There are issues with bolt size, position, etc. etc. I looked and thought of it for my 1300 Dolomite because I have a large centre lathe to do it but those in the know put me off because of potential problems.

I found a couple of driven plates on fleebay marked for a 1300 Dolomite but when they arrived the boxes were labelled for a Marina (can't remember which model), part number GCP 188, and they fit because shortly afterwards the driven plate exploded so I fit one to the car and a Herald clutch cover. The car drove with no issues and now lives with someone else on the south coast. The plate that exploded was a re-con plate!

If your clutch cover is shot then use a Herald cover. Again I fitted one to a short MkIV block with no issues, the car has since driven 40k plus.

They are like elephants' eggs but you can still get them, at a price.

The same clutch is fitted to the 1300 Dolomite and some Marinas.

Hi,

Can anyone recommend a good outdoor car cover that does not stretch or rip, and does the intended job, and that does not cost the earth please?

I have four to go at £15 each plus post. They all need re-coring.

3 13/60's and one 1200 full width.

I have a header tank, I thought I had a radiator but can't find it for now.

Have you thought of a Dolomite radiator with an extended core, they have no pressure cap and look identical to your photograph?

If you went down that route it would need a larger bore inlet pipe to match the header tank added to the radiator top tank.

Can we take it it is a twin SU carb set up?

If so I had a similar episode with a Dolomite the previous owner had fitted twin SU's (don't like them, prefer Strombergs). It turned out that one was running weak, added to that a plug lead issue. So basically the engine was running on one carb.

My present Dolomite (single SU) suddenly died approaching traffic lights and wouldn't re-start. That turned out to be that an emulsion had formed in the petrol (E version and I'm NOT going in to that debate again) and a globule of it had formed at the base of the float chamber next to the exit to the needle blocking the petrol flow. I blew it through from the carb end and it started first time. Then I cleaned the float chamber out and found the emulsion. 

You could put one in the dash but drill two holes, one above the other and fit an oil pressure gauge?

2 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:

went to put them on the shelf in the garage where I keep that sort of parts.... moved a cardboard box to get them on the shelf, out of curiosity opened the box, and found an identical set of calipers I bought 18 months before that which I'd clearly forgotten about. 

Could it be an age thing? I do it all the time, and the more space you have the greater the number of safe places to fill the space.

If you have no luck I have a pair of Herald 13/60 blocks going free. They are in good condition, no ridges at the top of the bores, therefore little (?) wear.

2 hours ago, J J said:

tappets are adjusted (hopefully correctly) the electronic distributor will only fit into the drive one way and I installed it with the No1 piston at the top and the arm pointing to no1 post

The distributor WILL only fit in the drive dog one way, BUT, the slot in the top of the drive dog is offset. So if the drive dog has been dropped in the wrong way round the ignition will be 180' out, I know, I did it when I re-coned my first engine, and learned from my mistake.

Photographs in a decent workshop manual show how the dog should be fitted, there is a free version someone on the forum has posted as a pdf.

This is the page from my Standard 10 manual, but they are all the same.

4 hours ago, Adrianb said:

..So this applies to anyone who gets frustrated, Just Throw your tools into the toolbox it saves a lot of time!

Do it all the time, its very therapeutic and shows the car who's the boss.

2 hours ago, Big G said:

hi guys...... my mates Triumph 1300 started up the other day......and as it was idling lovely.....it suddenly over revved and cut out.....now we cant get it started......any ideas would be great

Whether it is an SU or Stromberg carb check the oil in the dashpot. It could have just on minimum, surged, and is now flooding.

That brings in to play the clutch plate, e.g. a 1300 Dolomite, and they are like elephants' eggs to find. Or you risk a dodgy refurbished plate as the owner of a my previous Dolomite did for it to exploded on me, literally damaging the bell housing.