standardthread

16 hours ago, WIMPUS said:

It will be again her famous RAL 7031 !

And the inside is already that color 😅

You mean Standard/Triumph Phantom Grey.

I colour matched it to RAL 7011

Go two tone and paint your roof white, the white on this is Nimbus Blue

Try a centre punch at the side of the screw?

The most I have used is 2.5 litres to do a complete Herald estate (and a Herald saloon before that), and that is going from white to red on the estate and that left some for touch ups.

A lot depends on your equipment and ability.

2 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:

If that's a 1500 it's on the "wrong" tiwn carb setup, Spit 1500 have twin hs4s, those are twin hs2 from a Spit 1300 I suspect.

1500 Spit engine will mate to a Herald standard box without serious issues from what I understand (aren't they the same as the Spit 'boxes?) 

 

A standard Herald box won't mate with a 1500 box, the later has 20 splines on the input shaft and the clutch plate is bigger, therefore change of flywheel. I fitted one to a previous 1300 Dolomite but with a 1300 clutch plate. As far as I have researched the first Dolomites were fitted with 3 rail boxes before going to single rail, was that the same for the 1500 Spitfires?

In terms of MOT's my Herald Estate was taken off the road in 2010 ish and the DVLA have it as no MOT history even though I MOT'd it just before I layed it up but they still class it as tax exempt etc. I have kept it SORN'd It also has twin 1 1/4" Strombergs which I fitted, so anything goes with carbs.

As is said above, get the present owner to MOT it, if it fails on something major walk away.

Don't forget. These Heralds became the Vitesse. Bigger, heavier and more powerful than a 1500 Spit, but with uprated brakes.

All the Heralds I have purchased over the decades never came with a service history, if it's solid go for it.

On 25/06/2023 at 08:51, 65redspit said:

Hi

I had this issue but fitted a race style alternator tensioner and trimmed it
to fit.

Not only does it make the adjustment really easy, no lever bars needed, it also irons out the differences in minor belt size differences…

You can see it in this photo :o))

eBay listing 185052086831

Pity they are made in China.

Would prefer a UK manufacture but then they would be no good on a Dolomite because of the battery position.

Have you looked at a smaller alternator pulley?

Internal diameter of 1/4" (6mm) to match the rigid pipe.

If you have recently replaced the drive cable I would start looking there first to solve the problem. Have you overtightened something, or is there a kink somewhere

Speedo cable DO NOT require excess oil, just the inner cable oiling, them being removed and the oil wiped off, and again, a light oil.

Anyone wants a pair of 13/60 blocks to go with these, FREE

11 hours ago, Dannyb said:

I brought a Lucas dizzy from a well known supplier which needed the clamp bending slightly but i could only do it with the dizzy out so I could see what was needed.

 

I've had this before with an old clamp that had distorted over time. I found that with the clap screw tightened fully (both sides of the slit were touching) there was still slight movement with the distributor. I filed a sliver off each side of the slit so that when the clamp was tight there was then a slight gap at the end of the slit above the tightening screw.

4 hours ago, Alan Armstrong said:

As I am in the process of repair and paint etc....on the front panel, there seems to be a different cut out for the over rider from one side to the other....is that right please or do I adjust accordingly?

KR

They should both be identical, the shape being is the nearside  cut out.

10 hours ago, Linda Carr said:

Our speedo is playing up, odometer still working but the needle does its own thing, goes up and up, sticks at a speed then drops!! Anyone know someone to recondition her? Or should I look for a replacement? 

Has someone had the speedo apart?

Our Standard 10 box needed stripping and cleaning due to age, which I did. All was good until the weather/temperature changed and symptoms you describe started to happen.

I discovered that I had very slightly overtightened two screws either side of the spindle bridge in the speedo. I backed them off, problem solved.

1 hour ago, glang said:

 You do have to get the right one for your axle ratio....

There is a way to check on the speedo dial itself, it relates to a series of small numbers that are printed/written on the dial face, I think from memory, at the bottom of the dial but on my Dolomite they are under the trip miles indicator. It's basically a part number.

Also check that the drive cable is sound and secure with no snags along its length, it could just simply need the cable very lightly oiling with thin oil.

Adrian you have got it got it just about correct. The 3 way union is bolted to a clip on the chassis. The pipe across the car is pressed against the top of the chassis cross rail  bending it around/across between the two upright. Then to another bracket on the off-side that takes both the flexible pipe (bolted to the bracket with the lock nut), then the rigid pipe is run onto the end of the flexible pipe(s).

As the cross pipe is a short run I don't think it is/was ever clipped to the chassis because it is protected 'within' the chassis.

Have you tried the manufacturers?

https://sucarb.co.uk/

There was a thread on the Dolomite forum a few years when I was looking at replacing a tandem master and I thought, and posted,that I would give the pedal a good thump to bleed the brakes. I was told not to do this because it could damage a bakalite part in the servo, and the way to bleed the brakes was to open all the bleed screws and let gravity do the job at first. Then close the bleed screws and bleed each brake conventionally once there was fluid in the lines.

Something to do with air getting trapped in the lines as you bleed one?

SOLD

Message sent.

Hi Dave,

No, not sold yet so still available

Steve

1 hour ago, Raymond L Jeffries said:

would you have a compleat boot floor area  for a herald 1968

I have a complete saloon rear body section, free, but will need collection. It needs repair in the usual places.

49 minutes ago, Rychu said:

So when the handbrake is off should the handbrake cable be taught as at the moment it is slack?

Triumph and Standard handbrakes are S    H    one    T, so I would say yes, but not to the point where the shoes drag on the drums.

More likely for plumbing to remove plugs from radiators etc.

I have Herald, Spitfire and Dolomite wheels/rims. This looks more like a Dolomite rim, the central recess being deeper than on the Herald.

I have a spare Dolomite rim with a tyre on it that looks like your photo, you can have it free but because of weight etc. postage will be expensive. And it is steel not alloy.

I live just south of Leeds

21 hours ago, Rutty said:

Are these signs of a worn tensioner.

Signs of a worn tensioner in need of replacing are two heavy grooves in the tensioner from the bars on the chain but you need it exposed to see it.

26 minutes ago, Kevin R said:

Thanks for all of your advice so far - very helpful.  I have checked my donor timing cover and it has 'warped' slightly and would be difficult to achieve a decent seal so I am looking to have it re-machined in the hope that it will improve the fit.  The tensioner is only scuffed so I will reuse it and I will get a new set of fasteners as recommended. 👍

You can probably get most of the warp out of the cover by putting it over a length of timber and standing gently on either end to get it back flatish.

As for machining try draw filing, basically a file that rests on both side of the cover. pressed flat against it, and pulled towards you