standardthread

A better solution, if your cables are long enough would be to share the windscreen wiper drive grommet because there are no moving parts involved.

An alternative, the empty hole above it with a new grommet.

Haven't checked my parts catalogue yet but Canley shows item 31, part numbers 703972 and 703971 (glass channel) on their Herald door assembly page. They don't list a separate channel for the convertible, and I can't see them being different to the saloon or estate.

This is how the Autobook manual describes the fitting/adjustment.

The rods from the turnbuckle (sleeve nut) can be positioned at any angle to get them to line up on the chassis fixings.

Hope this helps?

42 minutes ago, Banksy82 said:

The car had been 'restored' a couple of owners back and I have very little info on what had been done.

There is a moral for us all in this. Very few of us document and pass on the history of what has been done to the cars we own.

Good to know you are making progress, correct tool for the task saves a lot of hassle.

On 05/12/2022 at 19:30, Darren Sharp said:

One way of helping is to fit a trickle charging device which you can plug in when the car is parked up . This will keep your battery in top condition and ready to go . 

The option we went for to keep my daughter's battery topped up because of the blue tooth radio, was to buy a small solar panel (caravan/boat type etc.) and plug it in to a cigarette (power) socket in the car and place the panel on the dashboard when the car wasn't used. The panels are about 14" x 4" and come with the option of a plug or crocodile battery clips.

Hi Jack

Your first photo is  to direct the air flow from your heater/fan either up to the windscreen or down to your feet. It is attached to a steel cable that runs from the 'switch' to a flap just above your gearbox cover just behind the bulkhead.

The second photo is the switch on your interior light to turn the light on when you haven't got the doors open

Had my Dolomite prop off recently to replace the bearing. When I put the parts of the prop back together I blew the end out of the spline portion, therefore, there is, and should be a vent in the end hidden by the UJ which I discovered as a small hole in the end cap. When you tighten the collar you could be producing an air lock.

Regarding correct fitment, I always thought the correct way was to put the sliding section next to the dif. The Dolomite was fitted with the spline next to the gearbox so I presume that is the correct way to fit the prop on all Triumphs?

Dedication and perseverance, good on you.

14 hours ago, Banksy82 said:

I’ll have to weigh up the cost of a puller against the cost of the steel to make my own!

Tried that with a large coarse pitch thread, it didn't work.

If you're passing this way you're more than welcome to call and pull it here.

Sorry about the TSSC, it could be members only but they are a heavy item so postage is a lot so a years membership could cover the cost. I know they used to stock/sell a lot of parts to members.

14 hours ago, glang said:

I think thats unlikely because it would mean the hub AND rim are bent😯 Most probable is that the hub got bent and then it wouldnt take much trial and error, even by eye, to work out where to put spacers to push the wheel back roughly true....

But to true a hub up would logically mean any shims would have to be inside the brake drum?

24 minutes ago, Banksy82 said:

Also could do with the correct puller if anyone has one for sale.

The TSSC stock/supply them. I got one when I was a member years ago

Spanner in the works?

Has the wheel been 'shimmed' because of a bent rim?

I would have thought to work out the dimensions of the 'shims' the previous owner had access to a degree of engineering dti's etc. or knew the rim was bent, or they bent it?

I agree with glang on testing the battery off the car.

An additional very indicative test you could do is test the electrolyte in each cell with an hydrometer if you are lucky enough to have a battery that isn't 'sealed for life'. A bad move for classic car owners, but good for making more money for the battery manufacturers.

You haven't by any chance got an alarm or blue tooth radio fitted have you?

My daughter purchased a retro blue tooth radio for her classic car. All was fine if the car was used regularly, if not, the battery went flat because the blue tooth (not radio) is always on. Eventually it wrecked the battery, a very large tractor size version fitted by a previous owner.

17 hours ago, Alan Armstrong said:

So if I'm correct, there is a thick bron and blue wire that is the feed to the ignition switch, leaving a white & red wire from the switch to the solenoid, and a bunch of 4 white wires feeding to various circuits.

 

Ignition circuits don't need, or use heavy duty thick cables. As glang states above the brown/blue cable goes both ways, one thick cable to the master lighting switch , and a thin cable to the ignition switch.

This is my Autobook wiring diagram for a 13/60 if it helps. It also in pencil, cables to join to use an alternator, which I have done!

Hi Adrian,

Try blow past because the dip stick (pratt) who checked the oil level didn't seat the dip stick correctly. Result, fine oil spray/mist all over the engine.

Our cars breathe back through the rocker cover to the carbs or on earlier cars a vent tube to atmosphere on the side of the engine block.

Steve 

1 hour ago, Alan Armstrong said:

Ok so moving along now with with growing confidence that if a wire has been fiddled with, inevitably it will change colour!!

So if I'm correct, there is a thick bron and blue wire that is the feed to the ignition switch, leaving a white & red wire from the switch to the solenoid, and a bunch of 4 white wires feeding to various circuits.

My plan is to put an inline fuse on the brown/blue wire to the ignition switch, can anyone advise me what amperage should my fuse be please?

KR

Alan

The thick brown/blue wire should (according to diagram) go from A1 on the control box to terminal 4 on the master lighting switch. Nothing to do with the ignition. I would be extremely cautious.

Someone has seriously played with your loom.

Try this, it's a scale drawing from the official workshop manual so you should be able to re-scale/enlarge it.

The drawing shows it off-centre (the cross hatch in the wheel well).

1 hour ago, Clive said:

It is single rail... (good as stronger, less likely to wear etc)

Found this clutch on the bay of fleas. You can't get better than genuine laycock

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313123160603?hash=item48e798421b:g:

WENDY STOP.

Just checked the listing, its for a 165mm (6 1/2") plate, it's for a 1500 Dolomite, Spitfire etc. The description is wrong.

1 hour ago, glang said:

I think things have changed as Rimmers do one although as usual not cheap...

Clutch Plate Only - GCP244 | Rimmer Bros

Just checked my spares cupboard to find my spare Dolomite plate (not for sale, I may need it).

Before this happened

1 hour ago, standardthread said:

Is it a recon or new? The previous owner of my previous Dolomite used a recon version and it literally exploded while my daughter was driving it and cracked the nose in the bellhousing.

 

I managed to pick two NOS Leyland plates up of ebay, they were sold to me as Dolomite plates, one I fitted after the explosion. The new owner of the car I fitted it to drove it 350 miles home in a single journey and was very happy with the car (we were in contact a few months after the sale). I drove the car a number of miles before sale.

The Leyland part number is GCP 188, in pen on the box is written 10cwt version (Marina?), the plate itself is a Borg.

1 minute ago, RobPearce said:

When I was at Rover, I was told (by one of the older calibration engineers, an Austin man originally) that the only difference between a Dolomite clutch and a Marina one was that Triumph specified tighter tolerances on the various spring ratings, with the result that Marinas all got the "out of spec" ones and had horrible gear changes.

If all else fails, better to have a clutch and put up with horrible gear changes?

11 minutes ago, glang said:

I think things have changed as Rimmers do one although as usual not cheap...

Clutch Plate Only - GCP244 | Rimmer Bros

Is it a recon or new? The previous owner of my previous Dolomite used a recon version and it literally exploded while my daughter was driving it and cracked the nose in the bellhousing.

As for prop see if the person you are buying the box off will also sell you the prop as well because the Herald and Spitfire chassis centre rails are identical, hence the formation of the TSSC.

1 hour ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Thanks Clive, I have the 13/60 clutch in Mabel which I upgraded to when I bought her don’t know if it’s the same as 1300 Dolly.   

Darren’s buying me a column switch for Christmas so that will be nice 

hope  it all goes well at fitting  time

a tense moment lol 

1300 Dolomite clutch driven plate, 6 1/4" 20 spline, good luck trying to find one, it will probably cost you as much as your O/D, try looking for a Marina version, I think they are the same size etc. but may have different spring pressures.

The prop, I've used a standard Vitesse prop on a three rail O/D without any mods, wait until you get the box in place in the car, then measure things up.

Different flange prop to box, the prop yokes are interchangeable from small to large, I've done it.

57 minutes ago, oldbury863 said:

The site seems to have compressed the diagram from 2.5Mb to 105K! Is there a way of uploading it without compression?

I've found that when I have transferred photos from a memory card to my pc, then opened the photo on my pc, and then saved the photo in my photo program the file size reduces from Mb to Kb. I doit every time if I'm sending the photo in an email etc.

Regarding your loom and drawing there is ONLY one fuse in the 13/60 loom, it's an in line fuse for the lights and nothing else. It is taped to the loom very close to the bulkhead in the engine compartment, that's why I put a modified fused Herald style loom in our Standard. If, for example, the door light switch earths before power gets to the fuse it will fry the cable for its full length, I know, it happened to a friend so a fuse box is a must!  

1 hour ago, glang said:

although the 1500 single rail unit is the strongest of all the versions (with bigger tip bearing and synchros) all units are pretty old now and its highly likely it wont be perfect.

Not sure about that, prefer three rail boxes.

As for a change of box, it depends if you are lucky enough to have an aluminium bellhousing in the mix. I just take gearboxes out without engine removal.

I wouldn't be without an OD on my 1360 Herald.