Dave Clasper

Something odd going on here, my last post was just to say I have got manuals, though was part of a previous post?. Tried to repost and didn't work, so trying this one on PC, rather than my phone

Thanks. Both batteries were fully charged. Are we now saying the dynamo is potentially ok? Is it worth checking the 2 cables from dynamo to control box for contanuety. I haven't got buzzer

Thanks. Both batteries were fully charged. Are we now saying the dynamo is potentially ok? Is it worth checking the 2 cables from dynamo to control box for contanuety. I haven't got buzzer on the meter, can the resistance/oms function do this. Is it worth cleaning the control box contacts, before adjustement?. Also could the Amp meter wiring be at fault/wrong causing this?. Sorry, a lot of questions.

Did voltage test at idle. Around 12.37 Don't know if it means anything, with full beam, it gave 11.93. Without lights of it took around 2000 rpm to get to around 13.5 Also tried a neighbours known to be ok, heavier duty battery. Gave around 15 higher on the tests.

Epoxy still ok after 7 years. The oil normally exits from the seal at the top of the V.L when full. Myself and a fair few others have dicarded the often leacky/messy grease guns and simply removed the grease nipple/blanking screw and used a pump/trigger oil can (some have used a syringe apparently). Jack the front end up to ease the suspension load. Also if the top seals are new or very good, then a loly stick etc, pushed up the side of the seal, opens it up a bit and allows the oil to flow more freely through the trunnion.

I'm afraid I didn't Glang.

The actual trunnion is the brass? bottom section (never heard of it being two parts?) is just one piece. The other section above this, is the vertical link that threads into the trunnion as the steering is turned (or something like that). I did epoxy my replacement (in case it leaked). Some folk solder them, I think. Yes, many repro parts are sub standard (though often, relatively very cheap) and is often a right pain. Cheers, Dave

Hi Glang. Have swopped the current dynamo today (a C40, rather than C40L, that was given to me and I put on just to see if changed anything with the charging), for the re-con one. Should be able to the voltage test tom. I seem to remember the test is at idle?. No need to see what happens at higher revs/Lights etc, switched on?. Cheers

Cheers Tony. My lack of experience is probably not helping. Going by the book/s has maybe led me up the garden path as far as testing dynamos goes, if they are in fact, ok. I take my battery off after use, an an extra "anti theft" measure, as car lives on the street, so not too much extra bother to charge it and could leave me stuck at some point I guess and would like tick the issue off my to do list.

Thanks, a "problem" rather than "problems". Ltd time, so has been taken up with gearbox rebuild, quite a few other repairs and ongoing maintenance. At a stage with a bit more free time now. Cheers, Dave

Just to add (I can't seem to edit above), Every time I use the car, the battery will need a various level (depending on the driving conditions) of charge. Once charged, even if left for a while, it cranks the engine super fast and for a good while if needed.

Thanks Glang. Will do that next time I'm using the car, though even when a new battery was fitted some time back, I seem to remember it was showing around 12.5 volts for this test. This low reading can be other issues and not just the battery, I thought?.

Thanks Glang. Will try that. Have looked after connections/earths, so should/could be ok and wiring appears good condition and not generally messed about with. Just don't understand some of the basics of the travel of electricity, with some of the components (mainly charging I think). Cheers, Dave

Thanks for that Ben, really useful, love these "tips and tricks" (not enough of them about) . Fairly recently replaced mine on Vitesse (about £14 each from James Paddock I think) and the frame did need some extra holes drilling. So shame I didn't see this before, though I'm not sure how long these repro's I bought will last anyway?. Did one wet suit do only one diaphragm?. Cheers, Dave

Thanks folks If the Amp meter is wired incorrectly, could this be causing the charging issue?. If so, I can have a good look at it and describe how it's wired in. Would that be ok for some feedback from your selves?. I'm aware of the safety issues of amp meters, so will look at getting rid, though I thought at first it could be handy to establish if this may be causing the charging issue?. Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot. I don't recall the amp meter ever showing a pos reading?, (so maybe not good), though will keep an eye out. The ignition warning light, as far as I have observed, has always been normal and only comes on at idle, regardless of anything being switched on, (so maybe good), though will keep an eye out. I think I will have to have another read up on the details on charging, to see if I can fathom these basics. Cheers, Dave

Thanks. The amp meter shows around neutral when driving, as soon as anything is switched on, then moves to the negative, regardless of rpm. I always assumed it must the dynamos at fault, as they all checked out with low voltage at low rpm. Could it be the amp meter wired up wrong maybe?. Not great at electrics, though could maybe figure out how to disconnect amp meter, though would it have replaced the standard cable from control box to solenoid (I think this is how it would be). I always charge the battery after use, as varies from a bit low, to very low if have been using lights/wipers.

Thanks for your replies. Car has a amp meter from when I bought it and always shows a big negative charge, say when the headlights etc are switched on, even when running on the motorway at say 3000 rpm, so I assume not a slow engine running thing. Has always been like this, even with different (good) batteries. Could be worth looking at control box and even trying a new one, about £20 (if there any good?).

Hi. Had a charging issue on Vitesse since I got it (8 years ago) that has pointed to the dynamo, as related by the basic test (according to various publications) of removing the two cables and bridging the two dynamo connections with a wire and measuring voltage at idle, around 700 rpm. This has checked out at between 5/6 volts. Apparently it should be around 16/18 volts. Volts will rise to 16/18 figure at about 1500 rpm. Thing is, it's doing these same figures on three different dynamos (my original, and a recon, that I bought as a private sale and looks like it has been internally renewed, clean cotton and all new connections, brushes etc), lastly a dynamo donated by a club member, that was apparently working, though struggled in winter with city driving at night, with wipers and heater on (she replaced with an alternator). Al the brushes are in the wear spec and not sticking. Have dismantled all three and done the internal resistance tests, ie, field coils, adjacent commuter segments and all have checked out ok. Charge light has always gone out after idle with all three and have made sure dynamo's are earthed when testing by jump lead from dynamo to battery negative. Have all the dynamos failed and it's a coincidence there all checking out with the same results?, or am I overlooking something?. Thanks a lot for any ideas, Dave

Cheers Rob. I guess one of those stainless scourers could be the biz?.

Hi. Got the shaft off/through the pedestals with a bit of a struggle, by using decorator heat gun on around the top of the pedestals, which expanded the bores a bit. Need an easier re-fit if pos. The shaft etc was a used one that had been sitting around for years. I think there's a film of baked on engine oil causing the tightness. Any suggestions to remove it please?. I was thinking maybe Caustic Soda for the steel shaft?. Any ideas?, would be great. Thanks, Dave