Dave Clasper

Thanks Glang. Will try that, and thanks for bearing with me on this one.

Hi. Just done the above Disconnected the A.M cable from B terminal. Pulled the D cable connection back a tad, so I could connect M.M + and connected M.M - to battery earth This resulted in no ignition light and no starter? Put it back as before and got power back again Ta Dave

Pretty sure the same on my Mk1 2Litre Vit. I think on Mk2 Vitesse it is partly quarter " (or 6mm) and the rest a bit larger, though can't remember which side of pump is which size?

Hi Ben. Not had chance to do the check Glang mentioned above. Hopefully soon and will post the findings

Thanks Glang. Will give that a go

Won't let me edit. I meant to say" reconnect brown wires", to CB, rather than "wire"

Hi. Well the CB I was given appears a dud (ignition light stays on all the time). Just want chech the amp meter is wired correctly. Basically a thick cable from from one of CB, B terminals to meter, then thick cable return from meter, connected to two brown wires (I assume these originally connected to One of CB, B terminals and go to main lighting switch and fuse box). Looks easy to remove amp meter, by just reconnecting brown wire straight back to B terminal?. I had heard amp meters were a bit complex to wire in?. I did a voltage test of the two dynamo cables bridged at the CB end and these were the same readings as direct from dynamo, so ok I reckon. I also cleaned the contacts on my original CB, though change. Also I assume CB earthed ok as ignition light goes out at above idle?. So, as everything works, though only from battery current, would it be a good bet to CB is the culprit?. If so I will buy a new CB, As no time to adjust mine. Does this sound an ok plan?. Thanks, Dave

I heard folk were using this in the States, so thought I would give it a go. I have only tried it once recently, on a wheel arch lip that had an area of paint that flaked off, exposing fairly engrained surface rust. Mixed a small amount of WP and added about a third again of CA powder. Applied it about 2mm thick. Covered it in cling film to stop it drying out and left overnight. No wire brush at the time, though just wipped off with a damp sponge. Was surprised at how it had removed all the rust!, just really clean metal. I assume works better on a warm day, like all acids and more CA in the mix should be more effective. I have heard of it bieng mixed with water and smaller parts bieng dipped, using a brewing heater or fish tank heater to sperd up. Only tried it the once so far, though seems to be more effective than the bought acid gels I have used and didn't dry out as soon, also far cheaper. Bought a 250g of CA off ebay for about £3 delivered

Hi. Have just tried this, made from wallpaper paste and citric acid powder. If anyone is interested then will provide more info. Cheers Dave

Thanks Rob. It's a Vitesse, though wasn't booted through the gears.

Hi. My J Type failed recently (sorted now, when cleaned out the solonoid) was not disengaging. First, noticed when I stopped in M Way traffic and car was shuddering and a bit of a screeching noise in 1st/2nd gear. It did disengage by it's own accord and Didn't switch it on again. Changed the G.B oil when I sorted the solonoid. The magnetic filler plug had a few very, very, tiny bits of very,very shiny metal (Chrome of layshaft?) underneath the usual spikey, though softer stuff. Haven't got a magnetic drain plug. Maybe it can cause some harm if disengaged in the low, forward gears, aside from the, "in reverse", bad problem?. Cheers, Dave

Can't remember the set up when I did one of mine, though the new felt ones I understand are commonly, too thick (or used to be). I reused the old ones. Dave

Thanks Nick, is all that action with the clutch depressed?

My Vitesse will clunk into reverse, unless I give it a few seconds in neutral first!. Dave

And then cut the tube in half and dip the toothbrush around.

I bought car about 8 years ago and replaced the filter about five years ago (as I had one once collapse and leak fuel on a motorbike). Both filters had similar levels showing. The one that's still on it was £1 from Screwfix at the time. Never shown any dirt, should I be happy or sad?🙃. Wonder what those metal/glass types that you clean out, are like (about £7)

Mine is similar orientation to Rosbif's, and always between a 1/4 to, on occasion 1/2 full, (though don't know what it like when driving?). Never a problem (it has on occasion stumbled on M Way inclines, when keeping the revs up), though this could be other causes I guess?. Dave

Thanks Glang. Will give it a go and look out for any overheating wiring/components.

Thanks (especially for your patience so far Glang). Well the donated control box is maybe a 22 amp one (not 25 amp). Has 12V 12 78 stamped underneath and below this the PN? 37572 B. I have gone short on time again so wondering about a few, quicker, possible options for the time being?. Will it cause danger/destruction to fit it, or just less performance? (which would be an improvement for the time being on what I have now). Could I try it briefly to see if the charging has improved and then now, can assume the old control is not doing it's job. Again for the time being, could I swap back the C40 dynamo as maybe compatible with this control box. I do want to keep the car pretty original if pos, and don't mind spending around £25, on the correct control box if it comes to that (if I can't revive the old one with adjustment, It appears the new Alternators are maybe not always great anyway?). I have done some reading up on control boxes, though a bit above my head to understand it to any level. Thanks, Dave

Hi. Funnily enough a local guy I was chatting to when I was switching my dynamo over, said he may have a RB 340 I can have. That was a bit back, though he knocked on my door with it today !. Said he couldn't remember what car it was off, though thought it was probably taken off for an Alternator conversion. Looks tidy from the outside?. Worth putting on to see what happens?. If so, anything to keep an eye when trying it out?. eg, If my Amp meter is not wired up correctly?, it won't stuff the control box?. Thanks, Dave

Thanks glang

Thanks for the info on Alternators, if it comes to that, though ideally, would like to keep the dynamo system. Was thinking of taking C.B off, to clean contacts anyway. Did you have something in mind Glang?

Does that mean it never degrades/goes hard?

Well that last post worked. Just wondering in case I have to replace control box, there are a lot of RB 340's, with different Lucas no's. Seem to all start with 37. Will any RB 340 do the same job?. Cheers, Dave

I think that's a lot do do with it. I epoxied from the out side. Easier, and no possible reaction?, from the oil. Have found some stuff, doesn't hold up like it used to, Contact adhesive and liquid metal epoxy springs to mind. Dave