Dave Clasper

Yes Trev has some great stuff. Also Fitzee's fabrications. Lot's of dead, down to earth stuff on fabrication and welding, using a very minimum of kit

Mike Papworth advised to only refit (any) one of these three, as causes undue wear on a component (can't remember which one). It seemed a bit odd, though I took his advice, as He does appear to know his stuff

Hi. I think Clive has mentioned this before, to use set screw/bolts with the heads removed, that thread in the top two engine plate holes that correspond to the top bell housing fitting holes. Would be handy to know the thread size and a suitable length that protrudes from engine plate, after screwing in, please?. Thanks, Dave

Well done Glang, I have never read about the voltage control gap. Is that in any manual?, if so, maybe I've have missed it. Glad you sorted with no cost. Did it take a lot of hours to research about and think out of the box, to sort this issue?.

Thanks. So far not a big issue at all. I have had car 9 years and this a first, been doing it for a few months, even in mild weather, even with a tad of choke, for starting after an hour or so after running up to a good temp. I'm sensitive to choke on this car , and use it minimally. Can't seem to find any basics on what causes it. Info I have found is more modern, around changing/cleaning fuel injection parts, changing sensors, same info for inlet air for the fuel. Could a surge in ignition power to plugs cause this?, or any possible causes for carb engines? Cheers, Dave

Hi, it does it when it's cold for a few minutes, not a big problem as such. I was thinking, air been drawn into fuel system, though has had fairly recent fuel hoses from Moss, including the one from tank to main pipe (which is sometimes overlooked). No apparent inlet manifold leaks. Hoses to PCV good, as far as I know. Fuel pump working well it appears. Carbs are set up well, timing good, ignition system appears to be working well, as far as I can tell. Last time I used car, I noticed after revving up a bit, it stopped. I can't find anything useful on the net, about what may be causing this?. Any clues would be great Ta, Dave

Have you link or info on the crimper please Matt Thanks Dave

Took car out on a 30 mile run with headlights on (except at traffic lights and hold ups). Battery voltage next day (after settling) was 12.8 volts, which I assume, shows the battery has been charging. Not sure if charging is perfect, though appears much better than before. How's your tinkering with it going Glang? Ta Dave

My Mk1 2 litre Vitesse, appears to have had a J type box and a 3.27 dif fitted by Canley at around the same time about 20 years ago. Good for cruising and will pull long M way inclines in O.D, if enough revs to begin with, though a tad sluggish of the mark maybe to do with dif ratio? (Never driven another Vit, so can't compare). Some say 3.27 dif the weakest of the lot?. My O.D wasen't working for a while and I didn't notice much, if any difference in fuel consumption on longish M way trips, though I may have been keeping the revs down a bit to compensate, can't really remember, it was a while back. Good luck with it Jason Dave

Hi. No connection to seller, though maybe of interest?. On Facebook group "Herald, stag, spitfire,Vitesse car parts for sale", Single/odd spots for sale. £5 each + £4.50 p&p. Dave

Forgot to add, good luck with fettling it

Hi Glang. With me not having much time to work on car, and prioritizing more crucial work, I decided to buy a new C.B. Also a very experienced/knowledgeable person that I trust on the the other site, has always maintained that adjusting them has never worked for him going by the book (and did burn out some wiring on one) on 3 club cars. I wonder if he was unlucky, or also they are so old now that this is causing problems?. Not had chance to take for a run with lights, etc on yet. To test charging, It's I guess, just to check battery voltage after this type of run with engine off?. I'm kind of hopeful, as the headlights are getting brighter now with revving up, and the battery didn't need anything like so long on my charger after driving. Bit difficult to gauge a the mo, as only done one drive since new CB fitted and that was around heavy traffic in bristol, where I live. Let me know how it goes please

Thanks. I probably won't bother then. I had wondered if with for eg, lights on and on a run, if the battery wasn't charging sufficiently, then it may show the battery current use as neg/- on the A.M. I'll never get my head around electrickery, mechanical stuff seems much easier to me

Thanks, your results, may be interesting. Also would it be worth altering the A.M connections (as you described earlier in thread) so it shows battery current, to give an idea on how its charging?. If so?, to be clear it would now be. The 2 brown wire spade connection to one of the C.B,B terminals. The first A.M cable running from second C.B,B terminal to +A.M side. Second A.M cable running from - A.M side to single brown wire spade connection. Is it as simple as this? Thanks

Thanks Glang, bit confused, my original tests in this way on 3 different dynamos at around probably 700/800 rpm idle speed, all gave figures from between 5 and 6 v, which according to different books was too low and should be making around 16 v. I think it was advised on this thread that as long a volts rose steadily up to this figure which mine did up to 16v (at about 1500rpm from memory) and was also going higher with more revs (previous research advice on this was not to take beyond 20v), then probably the dynamo ok Above info on your last post, does not appear to give a specific volts figure as such, though says to not go over 20V and says not to race engine to get a correct V reading and it should be able to give the reading at not more than 730rpm . I assumed 730rpm was a general idle speed anyway and engine doesn't run well much below this anyway. they seem to imply though, to raise rpm from a lower idle figure and 730rmp ,shouldn't need exceeding?. Sorry this dragging on so much and if you want to call it a day on this, I understand completely and thanks so much for your imput. Dave

Thanks Glang. The CB,B terminal test which came out 14V, was done at 2000rpm (I had this figure in my head for some reason), rather than 2200rpm, so can do this again if will make a difference?. I also need to be getting higher V across the battery at idle (about 800rpm, in my case), should be around 13.5V?. Never understood this figure, as dynamos don't charge until around 1500rpm, I have read?. I was driving in stop/start daylight traffic yesterday and noticed that stationery, with headlamps on showing on boot of car in front, my lights did get brighter when engine revved up. I don't think this used to happen. Also will do good run with lights on check battery V.

I wasen't able to go for a good run, though these are the readings across the battery, with the existing and then the new CB. Battery fully charged and not kept outside Old CB Idle=12.73 2000rpm=13.96 2500rpm=14 New CB Idle=12.86 2000rpm=14 2500rpm=14 I also did V test at new CB,B terminal at 2000rpm which = 14V (I think this should be around 15V? (didn't do this test on the existin CB this time, though was about 13.95 when I tested before). Temp outside today was 14 degrees I did notice the very apparent clicking of the contacts on new CB, never heard them on old box, could just be a different sound insulation factor?. So maybe slightly better results, though not correct. Maybe time for an alternator? Thanks Dave

Will do Glang. That would off an already good charged battery, when idling as first port of call?

Thanks so much Glang for all your help with this. I will be needing to use the car a fair bit in the dark evenings and no time at all, to play around with the C.B, so have bitten the bullet and ordered a new one, as it seems likely this is the issue and worth it to me, to take a punt I reckon. Cheers Dave

So, even though the test shows just over 1 volt short, this maybe explains why all the the previous volt tests I have ever done, only shown around 12.5 from the battery at idle (rather than around 13.5 as is the norm?) and battery always needs a charge, especially after using lights etc. I didn't quite understand what you meant, when explaining the simple way my V.M is wired (always shows the - amps bieng used, and never goes into the + side of the gauge). Is this correct for this wiring, or because the battery isn't charging?. Any answers to help me, get my head around it please Thanks

Did the voltage test at 2000 rpm. Slightly under 14 V at B terminal. Also the same reading at D terminal. Did notice the shorter and longer tube/cable thingies on the bottom of C.B, got quite hot to the touch, while doing tests. Don't know if this is relevant? Thanks

Thanks Glang. It would the same to connect single brown (battery) to the two brown cable connector and bypass the A.M. This is just a bit more simple, connection wise. Ta

Just to be clear Glang. The single brown cable from terminal B (battery), to connect to the amp meter cable removed from other side/connection of B terminal,and leaving the other end of amp meter, still connected to the two brown cables, that I think were originally (before amp meter fitted) connected to the other side/connection of B terminal. So now measure votage from the now bare, CB,B terminal I think! Ta

Thanks. This kit is sized as metric (aside from a 1/4 one?) For the clamp holes and dies. As well as the 5mm size, there is a 4.75mm size, which I didn't notice at first. I assume this will be the size to match 3/16" pipe?. Though I assume this may be a grey area "wouldn't like to comment" regarding the slightly different met/imp profiles? If so I can return it and purchase an imperial sized tool. Cheers for your imput, much appriciated. Dave

Hi. Have just bought a cheapish one, to fit one new copper brake pipe. The description implied it was suitable for 3/16" pipe, though it's actual size is maybe a metric equivalent of 5mm. This makes it larger than 3/16", by 0.24mm. Would this size tool work and also be safe? Thanks, Dave