junkuser

An impact driver will do it, but only in very short burst as the armature is relatively light and will soon spin.

I used to overhaul alternators and just put a ring spanner on the nut and struck handle with a hammer as close as possible to the ring, in the "undo" direction.  Can take several attempts.
Holding the fan with the non-hammer hand with one finger on the exposed side of the nut will prevent the spanner exploring the room.

This "shocking" technique is handy with any stubborn nuts.

Drilling small holes through the hinges, body metal and backing plate prior to removal will allow you to get them back in original position easily using a piece of wire or a drill of the same/similar size.
1/8th" drill is suitable.

Big end rattle is usually more related to load than RPM.
Quietens when accelerating  or on over-run and noise at float. (Engine neither applying drive nor braking load)

The speed restriction is probably due to running just one different wheel/tyre combination on the car.

The design is not that clever.  Flat bottom soldered to the top section so pressure and temperature changes lead to the joint progressively failing. Both of the two I had had failed.
Drilled holes along the joint and "sewed" the sections together with thin, malleable, stainless wire (after tinning the flanges) and then soldering.  No leaks after 38 years of service.
(Did the first one with pop rivets, but it didn't look "original".)

I'm good at confusing people!  Everyone has to be good at something.

I used 2" sections of a small, U shaped plastic extrusion from my accumulated junk when fitting the trims in 1976.
Still the same bits there and holding firmly despite the trims having been removed a couple of times for bonnet painting.

I really have no idea I'm afraid, but not many Spits around here and a long time since I've checked prices.

My registered Spit 4 was valued at $4,000 unseen by Shannons insurance company last year so I guess they got that valuation from somewhere.
I was not fussed about the valuation as I was after Third Party Property Damage Only but comprehensive was virtually the same price.

Sorry.

Same as on my Australian assembled early Spit 4 so must have been standard here.

Maybe worth considering mounting the spindles on adjustable offsets H, so balance can be adjusted to rotate chassis only (for repair/painting) or body on chassis.
Would not be too difficult to make and would add to versatility and value if selling on.

Best of luck,
                   Mal

Amazing the voltage coiled wire can build up ain't it Nick.

Could it be that the filter in the pump is blocked with debris?

Centre of gravity will be a problem if I am understanding you correctly.

"a nasty belt" would be higher than 12V.  ?an electrostatic charge, unless it is somehow getting an intermittent discharge from the coil or back EMF from the starter motor when when disconnecting, if this is when it occurs. (There can be quite a high voltage back through the connection to starter switch/button. This is the reason for "accessories" being disconnected while starter is used.)

Maybe ianbetty only wants the roof off to do some repairs.

Have you seen John Bonnett's rotisserie in the Specials section?
May be worth considering if you don't have one or access to one.

UNF

Runs OK at larger throttle openings.  Stumbles at lower throttle openings after a while.  Carburetors weeping. (Fuel level should be below gasket level, if this is where it is weeping from)
OK next day for a while.  (Hope this is roughly what you have described)

Could just be the fuel level in float bowls gradually rising due to gunk in needles valve(s)

"I have also developed a nice new ticking noise and a lack of power.."

Consistent with a plug lead falling off.  You may be lucky. :)

The scenic route was rather a worry but you go there,
All the Best,
Mal. ;)

The scenic route was rather a worry but you go there,
All the Best,
Mal. ;)

:) 22/4/14

:) 22/4/14

Cute.

If you get it done, use someone experienced with GT6s or at least Spitfires.
They will know where problems lie, how to dismantle and repair, where to get any parts required and which parts more economical to fabricate rather than replace with what is available.
A lot of time (cost) will be saved if you use someone who knows these cars.