midgeman
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I think your correct looks like they are not consistent in the quality department. I have ordered a thread adaptor from Clive so will in future have a better choice of Filters to choose from looks like Mann Filters are the preferred choice with some members unless you know of others. I would be interested to know what vehicle these other Filters are listed for as none of the Motor Factors I know of list anything for our type of vehicle. Many thanks for your reply.
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Thanks for the replies I have sent a PM to Clive Senior
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Hi all I decided to change the Oil & Filter on the 13/60 Saturday morning but all did not go according to plan. Usually takes 1/2 to 1 Hour tops but after draining and refilling Oil removing and replacing with new Filter (HAND TIGHT) I started the Engine and Oil literally poured out from around the filter (not a trickle) it poured out. Thinking I had not tightened enough I applied a little more effort to said Filter again by hand but this made no difference so I thought perhaps it was a poor rubber seal so swapped the seal from old filter to new and tried again but no luck and I ended up fitting the OLD Filter (not ideal I know) and it sealed first time. So I am inclined to think that the NEW Classic Gold GFE 150 Filter was faulty in some way I believe that these Filter's have a one way valve inside so could it be that the valve was stuck causing the pressure to build up and forcing Oil out via the seal I have used these Filter's before and not had any problems. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Your views would be most welcome
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(and Fitchett's say one side is £120!! Can get a whole skin for less} Are you saying Fitchett's have said £120.00 for the Lower Repair Panel per side ?? if I recall I paid about £20.00 per side. With regard to the Full Door Skin I was under the impression they ALL came from Fitchett's anyway as they have the original Tooling but I may be wrong.
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(and Fitchett's say one side is £120!! Can get a whole skin for less} Are you saying Fitchett's have said £120.00 for the Lower Repair Panel per side ?? if I recall I paid about £20.00 per side. With regard to the Full Door Skin I was under the impression they ALL came from Fitchett's anyway as they have the original Tooling but I may be wrong.
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I got my repair sections from Fitchett's in Telford and found them to be good quality but that was 2012.
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I got my repair sections from Fitchett's in Telford and found them to be good quality but that was 2012.
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As said previously slide them to the centre of the door they DO come out trust me. I made a small wooden wedge that SLIGHTLY opened up the gap leaving both hands free to wiggle the frame about a bit.
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As said previously slide them to the centre of the door they DO come out trust me. I made a small wooden wedge that SLIGHTLY opened up the gap leaving both hands free to wiggle the frame about a bit.
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Not sure what "grease buttons" are? Sorry for my lack of punctuation. The Buttons I refer to are the Rubber Buttons that go between the Leaves.
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And another photo showing marks made by angle grinder disk
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When I rebuilt the 13/60 I took the Leaf Spring apart cleaned each leaf gave each one a treatment of cure rust followed by a coat of paint each leaf was then coated with grease new buttons and bushes and then replaced. As I recall only one of the leaves state direction of fit so before I took it apart I ran the angle grinder disk down the front edge to aid reassembly. Hope this helps.
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Hi Can anyone recommend where to get a new Coil for my 13/60 as I have been told that some are not of a very good standard these days. I don't mind paying a bit more for quality if that quality is known to other owners on here. Also am I correct in thinking that the 13/60 uses a Standard 12v NON BALAST type Coil ? Many thanks Alan.
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I have wondered about this myself as the Engine Mounts do seem very hard not sure about Gearbox Mounts anyone know where I can get a pair of 45 year old ones to try 🙂
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Engine and Gearbox mounts were replaced during the restoration so are virtually new Exhaust does not touch anywhere I have tried it with the Fan Belt disconnected to Rule out Water Pump/Dynamo or Fan Blade. The vibration is there when the Engine is revved and the car is standing still so I THINK this rules out Propshaft and if the car is coasting at say 50MPH out of gear there does not appear to be any vibration so it seems to be Rev related rather than speed related. Any ideas ?