Phil Wright
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Everything posted by Phil Wright
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.... funny you mentioned that as I emailed Peter Burgess last night. He did my cylinder head and he's only a few miles down the road luckily.
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.... funny you mentioned that as I emailed Peter Burgess last night. He did my cylinder head and he's only a few miles down the road luckily.
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Lol, ooops!
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Think i'm getting somewhere with this. I thought the default map on the 123 would get me started but not so. I found a spit 1500 profile on here and set that up and it's running better, but still not quite there yet. If anyone has any profiles they use for a 123 Tune for a stage 2 1300 i'd be interested to try. Thanks!
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Think i'm getting somewhere with this. I thought the default map on the 123 would get me started but not so. I found a spit 1500 profile on here and set that up and it's running better, but still not quite there yet. If anyone has any profiles they use for a 123 Tune for a stage 2 1300 i'd be interested to try. Thanks!
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Hello there, its correct according to the Moss website... http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/camshaft-fast-road-83-large-journal-new-tt10505n.html
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Hello there, its correct according to the Moss website... http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/camshaft-fast-road-83-large-journal-new-tt10505n.html
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Thanks Pete, Yes - with No.1 on its firing stroke the rotor arm is pointing at No. 1 plug lead (which does go to the correct cylinder. The leads are also in the right order, CCW around the distributor 1342 as you suggest. I also checked and reset the carburettors this afternoon; I wound the jets back up so the top was level with the bridge than wound each down 12 flats to get a starting position. I don't think its a fuelling issue though, and the carbs were rebuilt by Andy T. Whats confusing me is the motors refusal to run when I set the timing to 8 degrees BTDC, either statically or dynamically. I assume this may not be the perfect setting for this cam, but it should at least get me started?
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Thanks Pete, Yes - with No.1 on its firing stroke the rotor arm is pointing at No. 1 plug lead (which does go to the correct cylinder. The leads are also in the right order, CCW around the distributor 1342 as you suggest. I also checked and reset the carburettors this afternoon; I wound the jets back up so the top was level with the bridge than wound each down 12 flats to get a starting position. I don't think its a fuelling issue though, and the carbs were rebuilt by Andy T. Whats confusing me is the motors refusal to run when I set the timing to 8 degrees BTDC, either statically or dynamically. I assume this may not be the perfect setting for this cam, but it should at least get me started?
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Agree with all of the above... most owners complain of their cars being too hot rather than too cold. My spitfire was never cold on the inside even in the winter. I'd start by setting the heater to hot and flushing the heater matrix both ways with cold water.
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Evening all, After 3-4 years of hard work the second restoration of my spitfire is now complete, and i'm looking forward to getting involved in club events again. Unfortunately however i'm having an issue which has left me stumped so thought i'd see if anyone else has any ideas. The car is just about ready for MOT now, however I can't get it to run right. The engine has been rebuilt totally, with a Kent Fast Road 83 cam (TH5), 123 ignition, rebuilt carbs, gas flowed head, new loom etc. When I start her up she's tricky to fire and when she does run the engine is clearly out, as if the timing is way off. When I connect my timing light I can see the flash is very retarded. However, if I advance the ignition to where it should be (8 BTDC) the engine just stops and won't restart. Backtracking slightly, the install procedure for the 123 dizzy has been followed, and the static timing set point is where the strobe thinks the timing should be, but the engine won't run on this setting. I've checked the cam timing, and with No. 1 on the firing stroke @TDC, valves 7 & 8 are 'on the rock'. Also, I set and re-checked the install figure of the cam, which is inlet valve of No. 1 (valve No. 2) at full lift at 103 degrees, the install figure for the cam. Everything seems right but i'm not getting anywhere. I'm all out of tea now too! If anyone on here has any suggestions i'd love to hear them. I feel i'm doing something daft, but cant think what it is... Thanks Phil
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Evening all, After 3-4 years of hard work the second restoration of my spitfire is now complete, and i'm looking forward to getting involved in club events again. Unfortunately however i'm having an issue which has left me stumped so thought i'd see if anyone else has any ideas. The car is just about ready for MOT now, however I can't get it to run right. The engine has been rebuilt totally, with a Kent Fast Road 83 cam (TH5), 123 ignition, rebuilt carbs, gas flowed head, new loom etc. When I start her up she's tricky to fire and when she does run the engine is clearly out, as if the timing is way off. When I connect my timing light I can see the flash is very retarded. However, if I advance the ignition to where it should be (8 BTDC) the engine just stops and won't restart. Backtracking slightly, the install procedure for the 123 dizzy has been followed, and the static timing set point is where the strobe thinks the timing should be, but the engine won't run on this setting. I've checked the cam timing, and with No. 1 on the firing stroke @TDC, valves 7 & 8 are 'on the rock'. Also, I set and re-checked the install figure of the cam, which is inlet valve of No. 1 (valve No. 2) at full lift at 103 degrees, the install figure for the cam. Everything seems right but i'm not getting anywhere. I'm all out of tea now too! If anyone on here has any suggestions i'd love to hear them. I feel i'm doing something daft, but cant think what it is... Thanks Phil
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All, Does anyone have any feedback regarding the quality of the Stainless Bumpers advertised by Group Harrington on Ebay? My car will be back from the bodyshop shortly and I need to look at acquiring the parts i'll need to finish. Thanks Phil
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Hi Sean, Yes - you're right, it didn't reach every bit of rust as you could see some remaining between the panel joints. I was told this was a possibility when I delivered the body for the initial strip. My main intention with the process was to make the shell easier to restore, and hopefully better protect it in future. Realistically, if there is any moisture at all where the panel joints are, theres little can be done short of opening up every seam on the car. I'll still be using a lot of cavity wax - it'll be the first job when the shell comes back.
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Thanks guys I went to see the car yesterday afternoon at the body shop, though there hasn't been much progress as they're snowed in with other work. They have assured me i'll have it back by Christmas, so watch this space... In the meantime there's a garage load of suspension & mechanics which need cleaning and refurbishing... Colin yes - well spotted! I was actually looking for the 10CR pic but couldn't find it so posted the one above instead - ahhhh well... Junkuser - Yes, I had no idea there was corrosion in the tops of the wings & we'd had the car 20 years. There'd been filler in there all this time.
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Here's the shell returned after E-coating & parked outside, ready for its trip to the bodyshop for painting...
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E-coating.... Firstly the shell is re-dipped in the acid solution to remove any corrosion which build up during the restoration process. The shell was then mounted in the cage ready for the E-coat process. The shell goes in the 'tank' on its side. I had to mount the body onto the chassis with spacers to allow the liquid to penetrate all areas of the shell - picked up some LandRover Discovery wheelnuts from the local scrapyard which were perfect for this.
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The finished shell - this was done last September ish - then there was a break whilst waiting for an appointment slot back at SPL for the E-coat. There was a 9 month waiting list at that point....
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Drivers side continued...
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Drivers side - this was the worst part of the car...
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Rear inner wing & outer pannels...
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Weldathon...
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I decided at this stage to have the paint removed from the shell so that all corrosion could be found and dealt with. The shell was stripped of all remaining parts and taken to SPL in Dudley, along with the chassis, bonnet, bootlid and later the doors. Here's a before and after pic for you all to look at. Overall I was very happy with the result, as was Tom who welded up the shell for me. The difference was that he could clearly see everything which needed doing. There were several parts of the shell where the metal was solid but very thin. If the shell hadn't been dipped and cleaned this way, i'm not convinced all of these problems would have been spotted. It also meant there was a lot more work required, but I guess they're all like that!
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Here's some pictures of the initial strip down last year.... The drivers floor pan was the worst part of the shell, but there was more to be revealed....
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Hi All, For the last 18 months or so i've been working through the restoration of my own car which has been in my family since I was 9 years old. We 'restored' the car back in the late 90's and put it back on the road in 2001 when I turned 18. Since then I used it as my daily drive whilst studying my A-Levels and university degree. Since graduating, it was a second fun car for many years, but the miles piled on as I took part in some of the club events such as the RBRR, 10CR, HCR and many trips to Le Mans. A couple of years back, it was evident this use was again taking its toll on the bodywork.. i'm still not sure how it got through the last MOT as there was a gaping hole in the drivers sill - the MOT tester must've been in a good mood that day! I decided to take the car off the road at this point and build the car i'd always wanted. Through a friend at the local TSSC/CT meet I found a skilled welder and set to work stripping the car. Here are some pictures... Firstly, here's the car on the 10CR before all the work started...