John Addy
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Thanks for your replies. Firstly Tony, I live in Tauranga, North Island NZ (email is johnboaddy@yahoo.co.nz) and yes I think a hole in the back plate may be the way to go. I tried tentatively to use the 3 legged puller, but that only pushed the drive shaft inwards. As you all say the hub would appear to be a very tight fit. I'll try to post a picture to demonstrate.
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Hi everybody. Thanks for all the very useful info regarding my front brake problems. But now for a new one. I need to remove the rear hubs to fit longer wheel stubs. My rear diff if from a Subaru with modified suspension - upper and lower wishbones plus adjustable shocks. The hubs I think are Triumph as are the driveshafts?? Anyway I'm hoping to remove the hub with a conventional 3 leg puller as the hub flange is round (not square). My question is are the hub nuts/threads handed as they are on a lot of British cars? As you see my car is a "bitsa". 2.5PI engine, Toyota Celica gearbox and Subaru rear diff. I bought it in a part built state which II'm now trying to complete, mainly for road use but may take it on the track in the future. Cheers John
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Cheers Colin and yes a little work with the angle grinder might be the answer. However, I may revert to buying some proper GT6 calipers and selling the 4 pots - there should be a good market for them?? Also, are the Spitfire uprights/hubs the same as the Mk3 GT6?
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I have some Princess 4 pot calipers which whilst the fit the front hubs, they foul the inside of the wheels. The only other calipers I have come form the early Vitesse (with the 9 inch discs) and consequently won't fit either. Are there other ways to uprate the brakes with calipers and discs from other cars. The reason I'm uprating is the car is fitted with the 2.5PI engine. Cheers from NZ John
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Hi again from New Zealand. I have lost the bezel from the wash/ wipe switch on my GT6 mk3. Unfortunately neither the bezel nor switch is available from the usual sources. I have bought the replacement item from Rimmers but find A) it doesn't fit the original hole in the dash and B) even if I drill (as I have done) one of a suitable diameter, the threaded shaft is too short to protrude far enough through the wooden dash to attach the nut. Anybody had a similar problem? And any suggestions please. Regards John
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Chic Doig suggests modification of MGB guides, but I note that they are longer, have a greater curvature and different brackets. Still possible to alter I imagine but originals would be better if I could get hold of them.
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Chic Doig suggests modification of MGB guides, but I note that they are longer, have a greater curvature and different brackets. Still possible to alter I imagine but originals would be better if I could get hold of them.
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No luck from Chic Doig either I'm afraid. Really didn't think it would be that hard to find a rusted out drivers door from which the guide could be taken!
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No luck from Chic Doig either I'm afraid. Really didn't think it would be that hard to find a rusted out drivers door from which the guide could be taken!
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Thanks for that, but unfortunately they only have the LH guide. So any further offers please.
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Thanks for that, but unfortunately they only have the LH guide. So any further offers please.
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Hi There, I'm a new contributor from New Zealand with a desperate plea for a spare part. I'm currently restoring a '72 GT6 Mk3 which came to me partly re built. Unfortunately the doors were bare and whilst I've found 99% of the parts required I am missing the rear glass guides (channels). These are listed in Rimmers as part nos 71094/5 but are no longer available. I haven't been able to find any here in NZ, but I'm hoping somebody out there may have some rusted out door which still have these guides in them. Help please!!! Cheers and Happy New Year, John
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Hi There, I'm a new contributor from New Zealand with a desperate plea for a spare part. I'm currently restoring a '72 GT6 Mk3 which came to me partly re built. Unfortunately the doors were bare and whilst I've found 99% of the parts required I am missing the rear glass guides (channels). These are listed in Rimmers as part nos 71094/5 but are no longer available. I haven't been able to find any here in NZ, but I'm hoping somebody out there may have some rusted out door which still have these guides in them. Help please!!! Cheers and Happy New Year, John
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Paul, I've had the master cylinder to bits and replaced the seals. There doesn't appear to be any problem with the pedal eye connection. Could you explain more about the release lever pivot pin, as I'm not sure what that is? A more accurate explanation of the problem - when in gear and with the clutch (pedal) fully depressed, the car is still creeps forward. In other words the clutcxh is not fully disengaged.
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Thanks guys. You all seem to think the problem lies with the hydraulics rather than the clutch itself. I have read elsewhere in the forum of a suggestion putting a spacer in the slave cylinder effectively extending the pushrod. But first, perhaps a closer inspection of the master cylinder?