sx2500831

Thanks guys. It is the flange that is mounted to the Diff. I looked at the flange mounted to the half shaft a little and didn't see anything obvious.  The serial number on the car is KF20404 so it has the newer suspension design. The reason why I had questioned this is because here in the U.S. Victoria British is one of the best resources for parts. If you look at this page in the left column: http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sg/full.aspx?Page=120 You can see that part #1 only shows its good till 1972 year. So what I am getting here from you guys is that this part should work on my car? I just don't want to get the wrong thing and delay the process.

So one of my axle flanges exploded. I guess its the huge stress that super powerful stock engine put on the rear end. Here's the problem. I am trying to order one of these flanges and I have noticed that in this one catalog it only offers up to a 1972 MK3. Did they make a different flange for the 1973? I need to get me hands on one. Also does this mean the U-joints are different as well. I did see a listing on Ebay and it stated that the u-joint was for every year of GT6. This is a little confusing.

Thanks for your replies. I will check to see if the belt is too tight. The alternator is producing a nice solid 14V so I don't think it's bad. I can say that it is new and and there is no more room to tighten it.

The car before the rebuild didn't have the flashing light. It only flashes when it's running. If the key is in the on position it doesn't blink. The car runs very good  and the fan belt is new and really tight. I will check the alternator with a voltage tester and see if that's the problem. Thanks for the information.

I just rebuilt my 73 GT6 motor. I also added an electric ignition. When I start the car the little red ignition light in the speedo flashes. Why is this happening? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So i pulled the oil pan off and found that a rod bearing spun. It ovalized the crank to .0015 to .002 off. It also blued the rod in spots. Look like the motor is coming out. While its out we are going to replace all the bearings, grind the valves. Check the piston rings and replace the timing chain. We will replace whatever needs to be done to play it safe.

The car went into the barn because the owner died in 1979. The engine was completely fine until this sludge oil pressure thing happened. Do you still think I did major damage in 4.6 miles? Thanks for all the input. I just can't wait to get this car going right again.

So I aquired a 1973 GT6 that had been sitting in a barn since 1979. Super long story short. I replaced all hoses and cleaned all the things that needed to be cleaned. Oil looked good and was changed recently. 72 miles into a trip I start to hear a tap noise. After a half mile I pull over to check under the hood. I find nothing. I drivemaybe a total of 5 miles. Again, Long story short, Engine knocks while idle. I pull the oil filter and find sludge and black as tar oil. Not thick but dark. No oil pressure means no oil to the engine. I am going to pull the oil pan and claean it install a new filter and maybe even pour kerosene into the oil fill cap to flush out anymore junk. I hope the knock goes away. I am kind of scared about this but I'm hoping for the best. What oil should I use in it? 1973 GT6 U.S. Model. One huge bonus is that the engine did not over heat. I only drove it 4.6 miles. What do you people think