Spiti1976

Thanks for your replies... Yes you have to remove the head to replace the cam followers, I checked it at a spare engine. Well, I will start to measure if all lobes of the cam have still the same height. This will give me an indicator if a cam follower and the cam are gone. I will also check longitudinal play of the cam and install a duplex chain while the cover is open. Hopefully the problem is solved then... but I think eventually I will end up with replacing the cam stuff as well :-/

hey, never heard about that... can you explain what you mean with the non load side? :-/

It is a kind of knock it isn't changing with the oil temperature much, it is getting slightly better when the engine is warm. It sounds as if it is coming from the camshaft near 1st or 2nd cylinder clearance of rockers is set, rockers and shaft are new not a big deal but annoying I dont think it is a big end bearing, cause it doesn't change with load.

Hi, my Vitesse is a bit noisy. I suspect a cam follower is gone Can i retrieve them with the head in place? Or do I have to remove the head. Furthermore, does anyone has experience with PTFE coating (Kexel) of the cam follower? And where to buy new cam follower? Well, a lot of questions..... I will appreciate any advice Alex

I tried the fixture and was able to remove the carrier with ease, and it had a preload. It is only necessary to spread it a bit more then the preload (0.003"). I had my doubts also... but finally it worked. Maybe not on a daily base ;)

Thanks Pete, I will start with the actual height and from there it will be try and error with the mesh. Well, what a nice project for winter. I started with a fixture for spreading the diff.

Hi, I am rebuilding my diff (FCxxxxxx; 3,89 ratio Vitesse Mk2). According to the manual (either Vitesse or Spitfire) there is a special tool for setting up the pinnion height neccessary. I haven’t got this special tool (surprise… ;) ). Is there a measure from the bottom of the bearing bed or similar? Any values for me? I could do it with try and error, but there is certainly a better way to do it…. I appreciate any advice. cheers Alex

Well, I try to explain my setup a bit more in detail. I have unknown springs at the front but based on the wire diameter and the number of windings I assume somewhat 350 lb/inch (they are definitely not standard) I fitted a 385lb/inch leaf spring from an GT6. It is a swing spring, but I bolted the leafs together, though no swing anymore. The car has 1degree negative chamber at the front and 3 degree neg at the rear. It sits 1" lower. I added a anti roll bar wit 1/2" diameter at the rear. The car tends to oversteer now a bit, with less roll. It is quite controllable at the edge ( in dry condition, well its a convertible.... I drive only fast if it is dry) ;) It feels as if the car rolls now mostly at the front. I intended to set up the car more like a modern car (firm but not stiff springs and stiff anti roll bars) but I am not sure if this will work in spite of the weight distribution. What's the solution? stiffer front springs, a ARB from the 1500 Spit or a leaf spring from the Courier ( hopefully I will find one at Beaulieu this weekend, they are a bit rare..... especially here in germany  :() By the way... thanks for the replies Alex

In a lot of posts and even in the tuning manual from G.Thomas it was stated: "don't put a bigger front anti roll bar on a Vitesse or a GT6" or it will understeer terribly then. But I found reports about Vitesses and GT6 with a twin ARB setup (in the Courier.. Beastie) I've installed a stiffer rear spring, stiffer front spring, adjustable dampers all around and a rear ARB on my Vitesse Mk2, but she is still rolling a bit too much for me. Especially when driving slalom.  :o Anyone has changed the front ARB with a similar setup? What is the secret behind the twin setup?