Auldman

Hi Philip, Could be interested - How much are you thinking of asking ?

Firstly, I think you may have made a wise move by restoring your old spring rather than going for a new one, as a surprising number of people ( including me ) have found new some springs to be very disappointing .I sent one back to a well-known supplier, (who readily refunded me, to be fair) For a Mk 1V, Ie with swing spring, there would have been eight of these. There seems to have been two different diameters. Originals were made of rubber. Other more suitable materials have been used which are longer -lasting - including Teflon, polyurethane,Acetal.The most wear resistant is probably UHWPE* - ultra high weight polyethylene. Different thicknesses of these ‘ buttons’ or ‘insulators’ can influence ride- height significantly ( though this can be usefully exploited if the spring has sagged to some extent) * I made some from this material, turning them from 41. mm bar stock on a lathe. It is quite a cheap material but because of its extraordinary ‘ tough / slipperiness’, I found it really frustratingly difficult to work with -producing a growing pile of failures to get eight good ones! ( btw Acetal , perhaps second best to UHWPE but superior to Teflon, is very easy to turn )

This is a very frustrating and clearly also a worrying situation situation for you. The positives are that you at least have evidence of payment and some, albeit limited, paperwork which I think would certainly be enough evidence to support the case, should it become necessary, that you are insured. Contacting firms who are so internet based can really difficult but if you succeed in getting an email contact then use this route for the purpose of documenting everything and creating an email ‘trail’ m rather than ‘ Speaking to someone’ which has been clearly very time consuming , frustrating, unhelpful and- importantly provides no evidence. Based on your account I am not inclined to change to Esure. In my town there is an insurance broker where you can walk in off the street like in the old days and speak to a real-life human and arrange insurance.They are very popular. For motor insurance, I have always found LV to be very satisfactory. One feature which impressed ( and surprised me), was how quick and easy I found it to speak to someone who was knowledgable and helpful and evidently based in the British Isles - I hope that is still the case. The main thing about insurance is having it but not having to use it - Wishing you, and all , safe motoring.

There are two important signs you descibe, Rychu 1.extensive pedal travel. 2.It reduces when the handbrake is applied Consider 1.This is not a sign that air is in the system - that would be sponginess - or more specifically, excessive travel is greatly improved for a moment by “pumping” the pedal. Consider 2.- here lies the answer. Pulling on the handbrake shifts the shoes taking up any excessive travel, and it also allows the slave cylinder to slide in the back plate ( as it should) and the travel will be reduced. So we are looking at the rear brakes ( any concerns re the fronts can be quickly assessed by careful clamping of the front brake hoses and then trying the pedal) adjusters - If the all the components of the adjusters aren’t fully free ( a very common fault) proper adjustment just isn’t possible as you cant take up free- play. slave cylinder - It isn’t widely appreciated that this has to be free to slide in the back plate as the foot brake and or handbrake is applied.It gets stuck up- like the adjusters do.( It can reduce handbrake efficiency a lot) The answer is to dismantle, check everything, free everything off and work in anti- seize like Copa Slip. The aim is to have the adjusters freed off to the extent light finger pressure with a short spanner will allow them to function. The slave cylinder is held, ( but has to be able to slide) in the back plate held be two interlocked by horseshoe shaped type clips. This needs the same approach , dismantle, free-off clean and copper grease. Good luck…

Spitfire Mk 1V Automec pipe bent to follow shape of chassis. I used a press-in black in plastic pipe clip on the right hand side as there was a convenient hole there, but not essential.

No, it really is a drain plug spanner/ wrench I have had one for many years, known to me as “ Drain plug spanner” The fact that it has “Draper Tools “ written is also a bit of clue.

It is a drain plug spanner.

I was not particularly concerned re mechanical pressure gauge or the pipe ( nylon type )when I fitted one to Spitfire Mk1V The gauge was a Smiths -second hand off a mini( a Cooper, I was told) The pipe, fittings ( T piece ) were readily available. and the illumination wire was tapped into that for the temp and fuel. The 3 gauge dash fitting and repositioning of the lighting switch will no doubt offend originality purists.

I don’t they are car tools at all ( certainly not tyre levers !) They are bee hive tools, as used by beekeepers

Oops , omitted TOD - should be TOD 633J

Hi, I don’t own this car , but I have come across the original sales receipt for it from Devon in 1970. I see it is still taxed, colour now green. If you own this your car, or you know who does, please get in touch.