thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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7 hours ago, PaulB said:
Hi Mike
I’d like to enter with my son.
Do you have to have a MSUK license?Cheers,
Paul
You both need a Clubman license, free, takes about 30 seconds to get one.
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I have a 3-rail OD box in my Mk4 behind a 1500 engine.
Didnt notice lower first being an issue.
I have always preferred 3-rail boxes.
got the clutch from Canley Classics I think, was quite a few years ago!
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On 08/01/2024 at 13:30, DVD3500 said:
Thanks. What's his shop called?
I have sent you a PM.
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Throttle balance- did you clean the throttle bodies at all? They take quite a few miles for everything to get a good seal again. Mine took about 5k until they would balance well enough, mine were seized after many years of not being used so had no choice.
Distributor - does not look like it is fitted right. Is the drive 180 degrees out, it will engage enough to run car, but sits too high, and will suddenly slip after what can be 1000’s of miles. Mine did it in middle of a French town after about a year of me fitting it wrong.
take distributor off and open up clamp and make sure it is fully home against bottom of body.
May also be the wrong clamp of course, perhaps a 45 one or a delco one maybe. They can be bodged in sometimes.
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I seem to remember Tony Lindsey-dean used to ship lots of his stuff to a contact in Germany.
Might be worth giving him a call for a quick (?????) chat, see if he can help you out.
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One thing I have tried in the past is to connect the very flat battery in another car, then jump start the car from the good battery, give it a few minutes running then disconnect the good battery leaving the flat one in place. Then go for a long drive. Put good battery and jump leads in boot, and don’t stall it. The higher output of alternator and higher amperage compared to charger has recovered a few batteries.
I used my old Discovery as it had a 100A alternator
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14 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said:
Hi
Does a swaybar improve the driving of rhe Pi and does the Stag one fit to the mk2 ?
Thanks
Lots of people think it does, others don’t.
I found I much preferred stiffer springs, Chris Witor 200lb on front and 575lb ( I think they were) on the rear.
All estates had an anti-roll bar, as did the 2.5S, with its soft suspension.
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You can add 2 or 3 extra gauges to a 2.5 dash, does make wood slightly thin in places on RHS, so need to avoid forcing it back into hole. Have to lose dimmer for 3rd one.
I had 2 2.5PI with modified dash in that way.
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Not convinced it would fit.
There are plenty of old 2000/2.5 dashes floating about, should be able to pick one up for very little.
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19 hours ago, Neilriser said:
Many thanks for replies ive been quoted 495 +vat for bearing replacement or 995 +vat for a full recondition,what exactly would one expect to be done for a full recondition? neil
£995, plus vat, Jesus! Is it gold-plated???? With an enormous diamond for a gear knob?
I purchased a J-type OD box built with NOS gear set a few years ago for less than that price.
Even Fitchetts are charging less than half that for a recon exchange box.
I reckon you could buy about 40 secondhand boxes for you £1200, bound to be enough bits to make a good one.
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I have marshalled on the local road stage rally, I didn’t get to see one of the 1 or 2 TR7V8 that entered each time go past me until the 4th time it ran, they always broke down or DNS.
i think they tend to be very fragile.
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I don’t think there was any overlap of 1300 and 1500 production, and there are a number of improvements to components on the 1500.
if you have it, I would try it.
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And if it is a duffer, 3-synchro non-OD gearboxes are plentiful and cheap.
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My car has had new seals so not sure if right way round, but I can say, they didn’t mitre the corners, so get an annoying wind noise.
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9 minutes ago, Amy Wade said:
That's good to know, I'm eying up a Mk1 2000 that's been parked up in a barn for a considerable amount of time, I guess it's something I will need to cost into it.
Only worry when it goes wrong, mine had had the seats recut after a rebuild in the early nineties, and new valves fitted, so I suspect lead memory had less time to build up.
A few of the others I know of were driven very hard at times.
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14 hours ago, Batch said:
Another aspect to consider is the age of your original conrods, well over the expected life of the engine when originally built 40+ years ago.
I am acutely aware of this as a conrod in the engine of my TR6 made an escape bid whilst travelling up the A1, see the photo. It's the big end which has failed, but cannot say which actual part failed, whilst some stayed in the sump and other bits were scattered across the A1 in Cambridgeshire.
Ouch!
ISTR that the max-speeding rods have parallel bolts rather than offset, which is allegedly better. But does mean they only go in upwards, rather than down bores.
Can anyone confirm?
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20 hours ago, glang said:
They have slighter higher compression and different valves?
Got to be something like that.
Had wondered if it was the cast iron at the time, but Herald engines from same period don’t seem to suffer.
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JLR, the only Triumph engines I have heard having issues (and experienced) with VSR is the MK1 2 litre engines.
not sure why.
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21 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:
Brilliant, I could really do with something like that for some of the events we do as the trip meters in both our Triumphs are rubbish.
The Terratrip 303 does average speed so won’t be suitable for many MSUK permitted events.
You would need the 202 Classic.
worth getting the wheel sensor as well, if likely to go anywhere without GPS signal (tunnels etc)
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On 04/11/2023 at 16:56, Richard B said:
Anyone have some hubs spare with knackered U/J's etc?
Grumbly/rough bearings are ok, but not loose dust shields. Could collect at Stoneleigh.
Reply here or PM me.
I thought loose dust shields came from knackered bearings.
May have some hubs for rebuild, will have a look.
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On 04/11/2023 at 21:13, Shepsy said:
Hi thescrapman Ok. I have been looking out for various 2.5 units. A good one seems to be extremely rare. Do you have any suggestions where one could be obtained from?
Pete.
Will keep eyes and ears open for you.
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Quickest and probably cheapest is to fit a 2.5 engine.
More torque and bit more power (assuming you get a S or Carbed PI engine)
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Not for me....
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