sparky_spit

I can tell you that the coupling for the RS type competition Escorts fit perfectly and should obviously be more than capable. I was given one by a friend who builds Ford based hot rod things with stupidly overpowered engines and very chunky running gear. They are not that expensive either. Mine has been in use in my Spitfire for years now and is as new.

Really sorry to hear of your problems Sam and hope it works out okay eventually.  When we were recovered off the side of an Alp in 2017 (I think, maybe 2015) we had to do all the running around ourselves too. We were in danger of having the Spitfire written off if the total cost exceeded £3,500 but I was able to control some things, and therefore prevent some of the expenditure to an extent by setting up frequent four-way conference calls between myself, the garage in Switzerland where the car ended up after recovery, the UK insurer (Peter James), and the company in France who acted on their behalf (who were very good and helped me no end). After a bit of a struggle, it was agreed that repatriation could just be done for under £3.5K.  And they did, and I was extremely relieved to see a very large car transporter blocking my driveway 2 weeks later with my Spitfire on it.

Wishing you all the very best of luck.

Mike

I think Rob's suggestion to drop the sump is the best way to tackle this at the moment, as well as being able to check big ends and main bearings (except the front one, as this one can't be reached with the engine in place, as the chassis crossmember is in the way), you will be able to see the camshaft lobes as well.

You may find that it's just dropped a crank thrust washer with (hopefully) little or no damage to the crank.

Its got to be worth a try? You will need an oilproof hat. Or one of those plastic shower cap things that come with ladies hair dye kits.

Petit St Bernard???    🐸

Yes good luck to all of you. For a number of reasons we are not doing it this time, but I'm not jealous at all.....😢

That looks really nice; good fit too.  Did you fit it yourselves?

Edit: just seen Wendy's post which answers my question. Are you free next Saturday to come and fit my NOS Spitfire hood for me? 😉

As above, two servicing/repair/data books (see picture) free to anyone who can make use of them, either the pair or just a single book.

If you want one, or both, send me a PM with your address and I'll post it/them to you. Rgds - Mike

I'm with Yorkshire Spam on the desirability of having O/D on 2nd just for the passes, especially the bit where you exit an upwards hairpin bend in 2nd and then have to rev the nuts of it to catch 3rd with enough speed/revs to not bog down. 

Dirk Devogoleir (spelling...) posted some years ago about how how he did this on his Mk3 Spit and it was relatively straightforward. it must still be on here somewhere, with the parts list and diagram? I think that all you lose is the automatic switching on of the reversing lights, which is a small price to pay.

Its been on my to-do list for years.

it is a dipstick that has been swapped between 2 different engines over 24 years.

I suggest getting some more test results and take a balanced view, to see how many 

are the equal of each other.

If you want me to visually check, I have a FM1500 block on the engine stand with its sump off so its easy to measure whatever you want.

Which does raise the question of "is the 1500 dipstick longer than a 1296 one. And... are the blocks the same height and have the dipstick hole in the same place?.

Just checked the dipstick and it is indeed 180 from cup to tip

From the bottom of the dipstick it is 38mm up to the 2nd mark down, and 55mm to the first mark down.

By pure chance I have the owner's handbook open in front of me and can confirm that Pete is correct; it takes 2 pints (1.4 litres) to raise the level from the lower dipstick marking to the upper marking.

7 hours ago, Velocita Rosso said:

...and those frogs got everywhere😂

Yes, they even made an appearance at Rolduc 🙂

And just after that control stop there was a very long climb to the top, in torrential rain, and with frogs hopping about on the hairpin bends.

Thanks again Roy and Peter - the items were very much appreciated and will be put to good use.

Peter, sorry if I seemed to be in a bit of a rush but we were tight on time to get further up the coast for something else and get back home in time for a food delivery.

Thanks Roy - will do.  Also, let me know a suitable charity of your choice as I'd like to make an appropriate donation.

Thanks again - Mike

Hello Roy - I would very much like to have these items if I may?  I live just across the border in North Essex.  When would be a convenient day and time to come and collect?

Mike

Good idea.  I did exactly the same on my Spitfire and it completely eliminated the clonk you get when the AVO plastic bushes wear.  The new rubber/steel-sheathed rear spring bushes have been on there for years now and are still working well. The bush is the correct diameter but is a bit too long. The tricky bit is cutting them to correct length and keeping the cut end square, although I just parted off the end of mine in a lathe. I realise not everyone has access to a lathe so needs to be done carefully with a hacksaw and vice.

I've written elsewhere that my first car was a Triumph 1300 that consumed front driveshafts like they were going out of fashion. But.....

I've just remembered that I owned a Standard 8/10 pick-up years before that, and "rallycrossed" it around the farm where I worked in the summer holidays. It was very, very rusty and had Fred Flintstone floors and load space, and the cab roof was only  held on by gravity and a bit of bailing twine. Good fun though for a 16 year old hooligan.

I do the same as TimW, after heating the "rubber" part in boiling water or using a heat gun on it.

I agree with YS above.  Try Peter James Insurance; I've been with them for many years and they dealt with one accident claim, and one recovery back from Switzerland without hassle. The premium each year has been competitive and I can't fault them really.

I have SORNed my motorcycles and then taxed/insured/MOT'd them shortly afterwards with no problem. I think that the system runs in real time and it just takes one overnight (CRON job?) for the change to take effect, with no apparent limit on the number of times you do it.

20 hours ago, GreenV8Machine said:

"Because you meet up with dodgy Essex guys"

Who?... Us?.....😉

Okay, thanks for the replies above; most helpful.  I also spoke about this with my son (1970 Mini) this morning who'd had this discussion with members of his local club (Brighton/Eastbourne area) and he confirmed more or less what you have said above.

I've decided to stick with mineral/Glycol until the next time I need to change any seals, and do the change "properly" then.

Thanks again - Mike

This is a fascinating story and I applaud your tremendous efforts to track it down and finally own it. I particularly like the the bit about the "remote Irish farmer's auction"; I have visions of bidding remotely by phone/internet and accidentally ending up with 3 tons of hay and 10 pigs instead of the TR8!!!

As Tim says, it would be great to see it take part in one of CT's premier events again  at some point in the future.

Mike

What's wrong with a cemetery carpark in Condom?

I'm about to change the mineral based brake fluid in my Spitfire and I'm leaning towards using silicone fluid for the 1st time in the car's life. The plan is to pump through the existing fluid using an eezibleed and refill with silicone without stripping and changing the rubber components.

Is it okay to do it this way, as it is much easier than renewing all the seals. Any thoughts or advice?