Clive

1 hour ago, Alan Armstrong said:

Hi All,

Thanks for the comments...for now just to be functional I intend to keep what I have got.....but...what should i

paint the ally sections...white paint? Rubberised white paint?

Your thoughts please...

 

Tricky without close inspection. Yph imply they are not, err, well finished. So if household paint has been used it is likely aerosols will react with it. 

Easy solution might be a light rub down and apply a satin white or off white. Or indeed, whatever colour takes your fancy. I wouldn't bother with rubberised paint, it won't be thick enough to fool anybody and has a high chance of going wrong.

One other thought. The very early heralds had no bumpers at all. I ran most of my heralds without them. So unbolt them, fill holes, job done. Low effort, nice sleek look. 

Ali "bumpers" were fitted only to Vitesse. But commonly retro fitted to heralds. (there were some Cosmic aftermarket chrome bumpers too, probably extremely rare now)

If you want to fit the rubber bumpers, remove the ali ones, and you can buy the strips for mounting the rubber bumpers (or could! check Canley Classics, may need a phone call) 

Plan B, remove the ali bumpers and strip them (screwfix no nonsense stripper works, but takes about 24hrs. Paint it on, wrap in ali foil, leave....) then see if they can be used. If so, try to get matching parts for your missing ones, or sell them on. The rear one is tricky to find now as many had been cut for towbars. 

Is this a saloon or convertible? If saloon, it is fine. Convertible has an anti-burst catch, the "hook" part uses the spare pair of holes visible

Events calender is on the club homepage  on the right

Can't recommend anybody as I am not local. But checking over would really require a full strip down and rebuild, which is likely to not be needed. 

The engine can have a basic check by yourself quite easily. First I would take all plugs out squirt some oil in each bore and leave for a day or two. You will need to bolt the starter motor up, and have a compression tester handy. 

Spin the engine on the starter motor (beware, oil will probably splat out the plug holes, so a heavy cloth over the engine helps) Then in turn test teh compression for each cylinder, they should all be close in value. 

Next, drain the oil out the sump, pop the sump off, and have a look at all the bearings. See if there are any that are bad, or the crank is scored up. If just some signs of wear, a ndew set of bearings can be fitted. Check for endfloat on the crank too, a smidge is OK, 2mm is not, but if the thrust bearings are still in place new ones usually take out all the wear. 

That is really as far as you can go without a rebuild.

Gearbox, give the input shaft a waggle. If it really has a lot of play, it is an indicator that the mainshaft tip/bearings and/or front bearing are badly worn. Next, pop the top cover off and have a look. Rotate all the gears looking for broken teeth etc. Next step is a strip if you want to gio that far to inspect all the bearings and surfaces, but you are getting into serious cash again and it may not be needed. 

The only real test of these components is to try them. If they are bad once fitted (do drive it before refitting all the interior etc, and you can run the engine sat in a tyre or a DIY frame if you are adverntorous) then have them rebuilt. Otherwise save the cash.

Car model now corrected in original post

23 minutes ago, Rosbif said:

I found oner new by searching the net, it was a company selling tuning/racing parts, but not easy to find.

This one? https://race.parts/Catalogue/Braking/Reservoirs/Girling-Reservoirs/GIRLING-RESERVOIR-EXT

GE is early herald 13/60 with the nice small bearing crank (a good thing)

G seems to indicate herald, (F spitfire, K GT6, H vitesse and so on)

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?archive=engine-number-identification-chart

Yes, same cylinders. Only thing, the 13/60 should have a larger capacity resevoir on the brake master, that is important. Some 1200 had a small capacity resevoir, identical to the clutch master. And some had a plastic extension to the resevoir, which is OK.

50 minutes ago, Lemon Hell said:

Does this mean a drop in the quality of Moss Products?? 

 

I expect they will attempt to squeeze suppliers. That has predictable results. 

Thej link refers to Rimmers and Moss being bought up by a venture capital firm. They WILL want their pound of flesh. 

I think it is captive on the chassis itself. Certainly it is on later spitfires, but probably mk3 too. 

When driving herald steering is light and responsive. Or should be!

Heavy steering. Are the tyres properly inflated? 26-30psi. If so, next thing is to jack the front up, see if it is still heavy. If so, suspect trunnions. 

However, remember these cars have no power steering, so at parking speeds can feel heavy.

Brakes, reseal front calipers, new rear wheel cylinders, new discs/pads and possibly shoes. Reseal the master cylinder. Total cost under £100 and real peace of mind 

Engine. Old fuel? Check for a good spark, plugs/points/condenser and timing. No idea about the solex carb though.

3 minutes ago, Velocita Rosso said:

For my own peace of mind, I contacted the Certificat.air.gouvr.france, direct and this is the response I received 

contact@certificat-air.gouv.fr

Good morning,

Your vehicle is old: it falls under the less strict anti-pollution standards which result in more polluting technologies. It is not eligible for a certificate.

 

Cordialement,

Le service de délivrance des certificats qualité de l'air.

www.Certificat-air.gouv.fr

I think that means "Non"?

What is unhelpful is that French registered Classic Cars (over 30 years old) are exempt. But it seems they do not extend that benefit to us Brits. 

Have a look at Easysteer, they have a couple of models. 

I believe the MGF column has been used, not sure on comparative size though.

58 minutes ago, Kevin R said:

I have never done this myself before so at risk of sounding totally stupid this is only a SUGGESTION..

Turn the 1/4 shafts 10 rotations which would amplify the output to approx 39 / 36 which would be easier to see the difference.  Would need the help an assistant.  🤔

Would it work ?

Yes, that would work. Deffo need an assistant, counting 2 different things would get mighty tricky by yourself.

FR should be 3.63, spitfire 1500. Often regarded a very good choice foir 2 litre cars.

The only way to tell for sure is to mark the input flange. turn BOTH 1/4 shafts  exactly 1 rotation, and count how many rotations the input makes. if a smidge under 4, it is 3.89, a bit over 3 1/2 is 3.63. 

The problem has been found. Each member has an attachment allocation, and when you reach the limit you can not add any more.

If anybody wants to check there attachment history, click https://www.clubtriumph.co.uk/attachments/?sortby=attach_filesize&sortdirection=desc and you will get them. Click on the post title on the right in the list to visit the post, and members can then edit their posts.

The solution is to host videos on youtube etc, and embed on your posts. Simple guide here

https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/171780?hl=en

Pictures are best resized down to 1024 pixels wide. 

To resize pictures, there are plenty of options, google is your friend!

Hope that helps.

Today, between actually working, I managed to do a few things. One was connecting up the rear brakes on the dolomite (cleaned/painted the backplates, new cylinders  cleaned/lubricated the self adjusters, connected up the cables)

The drums were looming a bit sorry for themselves,  so 10 mins with the wire brush in a grinder, followed by an overnight soak in dilute acid. And today a couple if coats of VHT matt black. That needs to be baked, so popped them in the oven, gradually winding the temp up to 240degrees.

Then this afternon it was Spitfire MoT time. All assed OK, but an advisory on rear brake pads getting low, and a little play in the nearside steering rack. Those should be sorted over the weekend. Which is good  as away on hols soon, then when we return I have tgecexcellent TRR trackday, and a few days after am off to Spa for a few days  including a track session (fabulous track!)

3 hours ago, mikeyb said:

Isn't Rouen now one big "clean air zone"?  

I believe there is a large area of it which is. But we will all be OK..... and you can easily avoid it.

9 hours ago, mikeyb said:

Have I missed something on where we might be starting from?

Main entrant got the email a few weeks ago. Starting Rouen this time.

It is annoying that some new stuff is so poor. Something so simple can cause so much grief!

1 hour ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Thanks Amy, I’ve got a few new bits  already inlet & exhaust  valves,springs and guides, new pressure relief valve,  thrust washers (std) hopefully they’ll be ok to use  theres no end float, top and bottom gasket sets, timing chain & tensioner kit, timing cover seal , new core plugs ( she has the old welch plugs bash flat type ! lol) , new oil pump,   l I will leave the pistons  and shells to the machine shop, don’t know how much they’ll have to take off . Great fun taking it apart though 

 

Wendy, be aware that the vast majority of timing chain tensioners are junk. A local had one wear out in a few hundred miles. Last rebuild I did I reused the old one, some wear but I reckon it had 50k left in it. 

Tony Lindsey Dean had a batch of correctly hardened tensioners made for this very reason, may be worth enquiring if he still has any. 

East Sussex here. 

Got a Spitfire, Vitesse and Dolomite. Just about every variety of post 60s Triumph turn up to the meeting (which is a joint Triumph club effort)

10 hours ago, Adrianb said:

Apparently it’s a Coal Tit.

looks like an egg to me.